Clive
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Everything posted by Clive
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Try turning both output flanges together, and see how many turns the input does? possibly a bit more reliable? If a 3.63 is is likely to have a collapsible spacer for setting the CWP. I believe the way to renew the seal is to count the EXACT number of turns to undo the nyloc at the front, replace the seal, and then replace the nyloc in EXACTLY the same position. If not the diff will need setting up. (by somebody who knows about diffs!) Do not try torquing it up, the spacer will just keep collapsing.
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Which exhaust do you have? My toledo almost failed a year ago (it was within 1 db of the limit) so this time I made a small additional "silencer". Basically a flap of metal that could be attacked with an exhaust clamp to the outlet, and the flap lowered (increasing backpressure and silencing) Crude but effective. db killers available on the bay too, similar method of working. of course, this year it passed easily. Unless your exhaust is a loud one, you should be ok.
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Nowhere near there yet, still a beginner. But I learnt about the oil the hard way (bearing change needed after the first one) and having seen a few avoidable horrors, makes you very aware! should have mentioned, if using alloys PLEASE have the correct wheelnuts as the ones from steel wheels are no use at all and lead to wheels falling off. Also tighten nuts VERY tight and check regularly during the day. Also I would recommend getting your own helmet. They can be had for not a huge sum (I got an unworn one for a tenner) especially if you plane on doing a few trackdays. Something reassuring about knowing it hasn't been on anybody else's sweaty head :o
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Go on one with other CT embers, I believe there is a link-up with "mg on track" That should work well, as other similarly minded people will be there, look for something that asks if you are new to trackdays. And get some tuition of one sort or another. We did our first one a year ago (with CT ) and the recent one too. Loved it all. Re car prep, GOOD OIL is a must, and make sure everything is sorted (new or near new brake fluid, tyres all good and not old, brakes correctly adjusted, silencer is OK for the noise limit plus all the usual mechanical stuff) Listen to the briefing, but most of all have fun :)
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Take the trunnion off the vertical link, clean it out. Likewise clean any grease out of the vertical link, wire, drill bit whatever, right up to the grease nipple (or indeed blanking plug) Clean the threads of the VL and inspect. If they are rough, bin them. I have had them where they are like saw teeth, not at all good, but most are smooth. The really important bit is to check for pitting or worse, any evidence of cracks, at the top of the thread. This is where they snap, though usually at slow speed (but not always) Wear on trunnions is evident as there is a lot of movement of the brass trunnion on the VL. Should be only minimal. 2 ways to look at this. Original VL's have generally lasted 40 years, and a new set of them should last very well. Breakages always show long-standing cracks by the discolouration. However, I added up the cost of new VL's and trunnions. The difference between those and the canley conversion wasn't huge, so I went that way.
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rings slip down the shock body, and the plates on top of that. re the chrome washers, one at the top and bottom of the upper rubbers. Seems you have 2 spare?
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But the koni's are a much better bit of kit ;) Are you missing the spring seats and retaining rings (showed in the rimmers pic) Or did you "acquire" them? ebay seems top throw up lots of stuff with missing bits, which are invariably tricky to get hold of.
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http://www.vitessesteve.co.uk/Servicemanuals.htm have a look on there, should be something helpful.............
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same here.
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Start the clock...48 weeks to go
Clive replied to Velocita Rosso's topic in Ten Countries Run (10CR)
Ahem. I think you mean Colin..... -
Or angle grinder with a 1mm cutting disc. 2mins for both sides..... both that and the saw you cut through the water shields (they are the washer things between the trunnion and the wishbone) Unscrew the VL first to improve access. You should be able to just use a decent hacksaw (certainly on the rear trunnions, maybe access is a bit worse at the front. May need to take off shock/spring. In fact, take the lower wishbone off and do it in a vice would be best)
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155/80 13 std for a bit wider 165/70 13 or you should be OK with 175/70 13
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I have a diff (3.89) I bought a while ago. Ithad the 3/8 bolt holes (9/16 spanner) from new, and has had a set of 5/16 (1/2" spanner) holes drilled offset to the original ones. The smaller diffs have a squar-ish flange, so this may not be possible. on top of that I think the holes will not have the same PCD/hole centres, which means there may be trickyness. I think I have all that right, but worried that I have got the square thing the wrong way round :o Changing the prop flange is MUCH easier.
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That is the correct puller. Nope, nothing holding them on except magic (once the nut is off) Very powerful magic too. A long bar and 3 or more shredded wheat required sometimes. Also be VERY careful, when it does let go it can fly off and do serious damage. I use heavy cloth over the hub to damp the effects and hopefully stay safe. Have also done up very tight and left overnight, or warm up a bit and so on. Just be aware......
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Front or rear? If front they come off nice and easy. If the rears you need the correct churchill tool, or a decent press. The hub WILL bend if it is not done correctly, and you will break most hub pullers trying to get it off if they are not the correct ones.
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I have a pair of mx5 seats here, waiting to go in the mini. If you want to give them a try out, even just put it in the car and so on, let me know. The ones I have are the separate headrest type, but I believe the bases are the same as the all-in-one versions.
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Didn't like them in my spit either. Comfy, yes, but head against the roof.....(and I am not tall)
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140 may be a bit optimistic, bear in mind the PI TR5's produced about that that, and they have some extra CC's too. But yours will rev better. A TR5 cam may run out of puff at the top end, worth investigating. And again jigsaw should advise what the rev limit will be. You REALLY need that cam profile before you choose carbs, but I suspect you may need the larger ones. Indeed RR man can let you know. Which is a good idea to start with.
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What engine?? Recent stuff has indicated that the strombergs are actually good. If you are looking at 1.75 inch carbs, I am guessing a 2 litre? No reason a set of non-emission strombergs will not be ideal if it is a fast road engine, or go to SU's off a dolly sprint, they have the short dashpots. Again, best to get a set with the circular springs arouund teh spindles rather than the ones with "normal" springs, as they wear the bodies a lot less and are usually in better condition. And then dump the waxstat jets. How much?? £25-150 depending on the seller for a secondhand set. A bit or opening up of the inlets to match, and opening the carb mountings up so they will bolt on. Jigsaw should be able to advise on suitable needles to get you started.
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heraldcoupe wrote: No, in it's static laden position, the spring should be virtually flat, so at it's maximum length. Any deviation up or down will shorten it's effective length. To return to the OP, fitting a spring spacer will increase negative camber, so not the desired effect in this case, Cheers, Bill. But there is another on non-roto cars. The rear driveshafts are solid, with a pivot at the diff. So the softer the sring, the more the shafts pint up, and the wheels are fixed at 90 degrees to the shaft. That gives more negative camber too....
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Ah, somebody to make the teas :P
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If it is a non roto GT6, it may be that the rear spring you were supplied is actually a spitfire one, so not strong enough, therefore sagging a bit giving excessive camber. Saying that, there are some poor quality springs about. A local club member bought a new one (totally unused, off a private seller) at a show. It sagged more than the old one once settled in. That was spitfire one too, in a spitfire. Not sure who is selling proper GT6 ones these days, or who sells the best quality ones. It may be batch dependant :-/
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Should add that if the diff is the very late type (I **think*** only 3.63 but could be wrong) they have a collapsible spacer so tightening up the front flange nut will cause chaos. Identifiable as the nut is a nyloc rather than a castellated one with a spiltpin. Also, if a diff is noisy from the CWP, it will usually stay that way no matter what. No reason it will not be strong. I would be inclined to maybe reseal (take note of front oil seal and setting back up if collapsible spacer type) and give it a try. Obviously worth making sure the diff will go in and put OK before building the car up, and no seized bushes etc (the rears can be a NIGHTMARE if they get badly seized, but quite rare from the many diff changes I have done. I think 1 was a problem, and that wasn't too bad to sort.
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Agreed, the diff is just about solidly mounted in the chassis. And yes, the exhaust really does need a mount onto the diff (which has a pair of holes there for doing so) The bobbins are not great unless mounted in compression. The exhaust hanging straps are far more durable.
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Or maybe a batch :)