Clive
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Everything posted by Clive
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The thermostat should open at 82 degrees (or poss 88 if a winter version is fitted, not needed in a GT6 really) so a radiator temp of 80 something when hot, not over 100 certainly at the top of the rad. also, is the fuel gauge over reading? if so the voltage stabaliser, which feeds both gauges, may be faulty. Likewise, there are 2 types of temperature sender, who knows which is fitted if it has been changed. Other ideas will follow, probably better than mine ;)
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For swingspring it needs the bigger ARB. All other suspension uses the smaller one. Very odd that a non-roto mk3 GT6 has the smaller ARB fitted, unless somebody was experimenting. Most assume bigger is better, not always the case ;)
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I also suspect a small change to positive camber on droop is useful too, as it sets the inboard tyre up correctly in a corner (if you ski it makes even more sense). Obviously the situation where the old swing axle cars jack up is rather less than helpful, but a small change to neg on compression and pos on droop may well be ideal. This is all gut feeling, and difficult to explain :o
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There are some very iffy new angle drives about, I would always use a good old one... Yes, mkIV spit gearlever will fit (NOT the 1500 one though) but there are differences in the mechanism to allow the OD to only work in 3/4th gears. and definitely STOP it working in reverse (or very bad things happen). However, if it is an OD box all that should be there. Alternatively, it is perfectly possible to chop the top section off another od gearstick (saloon ones used to be cheap, but I expect that has changed) and weld it to the mk3 one. Been there, done it, more than once.
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Very easy. I have done it a couple of times. Needs mounting holes drilled in the rear shelf, obviously with a strengthening plate underneath and in a corner for strength. Holes in the rear wheel arch at the back of the seat pans. Plus I used a single mounting point centrally in the spring tunnel. All reinforced etc. I used static seatbelts, pretty cheap and work a treat. They got transferred over to the current car (toledo).
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1344 wrote:a trip to eurocarparts tomorrow i think thanks chaps To get the discounts you HAVE to buy online. They will deliver free, or easier often to pickup at local shop. Don't just go there , you will get charged full whack.
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http://www.eurocarparts.com/car-parts?gclid=CJ6NxOzbgrMCFaTJtAodVTYA1w the bosch 063 battery on there is a bargain. 063 so should be ample (ha ha) for a saloon. That size is common to about a third of cars on the road (or was) so always cheap, plus 4 year guarantee etc saying that the 075 is a little extra if worried. I wouldn't be.
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Moss used to sell them, I presume they still do. I take it you mean a pair of weber 40's?? There was a chap selling a single weber 40 on a manifold for a 1300 engine here http://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=22709 I would add that to make a real difference you also need a cam swap and head work, otherwise you will make a bit more power and use a lot more fuel. Webers generally added once the engine itself is sorted.
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ferny wrote: Looks like the only difference between your spit and my herald is going to be the body. Should be interesting. :) What, my body is interesting :X Or are we talking cars here? I am getting worried....
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I simply do not like the term "uprated" they really need to give more info eg rate and fitted length (obviously in a std car!) Moss sell springs in a few flavours, but they all tend to be higher poundage AND shorter fitted length. They also supply spacers, small ones to fit on top of the shock top plate, larger ones for between spring and shocker. That enables you to achieve various ride heights if you don't have adjustable spring seats (like me, Koni's)
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Yep, not sure which year though :P Actually, maybe not. Tend to have a Triumph/petrolhead gathering at my gaff NYD...
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3122 wrote:I assume at some point you are going to drive this car somewhere?! :P Been 3 years in the build so far, engine got bunged into position last weekend, sitting on blocks for checking (ie bonnet etc all fits nicely) and should be making engine mounts next weekend (this one is Gill's birthday plus a uni visit) Looks like the bodywork will get the spraywork done over christmas......
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I know of one that has been fitted in a spitfire by a CT chappie. I look forward to seeing it in the flesh. Yep, 3.54 is available, in fact quite common. As are the 4.1 but he 3.9 is a little rarer, and the 3.7 is almost mythical. Having used a 3.63 in the zetec spit, I think that was a good ratio, and the 3.7 should be slightly better. I was considering he 3.9 until I saw this one. Plus it is LSD, and viscous which is possibly a good thing. I hope. Not viscous or noisy like the plate LSD's.
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just browsing ebay (as you do) and stumbled across this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-SVX-Rear-Diff-/271072067900?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3ASubaru&hash=item3f1d27813c A Subaru LSD but in very rare 3.7 flavour, hopefully ideal in my spitfire......So I had to buy it. Was it a good idea or just another daft idea.?? Guess I will know in a couple of years time when it is either in the car or still in my "diff pile"
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24hrs after the event.......
Clive replied to AlanChatterton's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
My money is on Bancroft. -
1863 wrote:My 1200 Herald had new carpets fitted before I bought it. The carpets are black and feature inbuilt sound deadening material. Anyone any idea who sells these? Most sets seem to have seperate underfelt.... S I expect they are Newton Commercial ones. Not cheap, but fit very well (unlike most)
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Happy birthday Bill :) Gives me an idea...................
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I should add here that the rotoflex setup is much heavier than the swingspring. Saying that I have fitted (CV jointed) rotoflex to my spitfire project, in the vain hope it will improve the handling a bit. However, the swingspring does work very well indeed, a vast improvement over the early swing-axle setup. Overall I reckon rotoflex is better, but weigh it up against increased complexity/maintenance/costs
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The adapter arrived today, £4 delivered (it is ali, hopefully no issues with corrosion with all that oil about) Seems a simple answer, I thought about drilling and welding or brazing, but I HATE welding under the car. I always get burnt. Usually a sizzle in the ear :o The tolly has a modified dash waiting for the rain to stop. Rev counter, and a couple of extra worry gauges will keep me occupied.
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Ferrite magnet seem much more resistant to temperature, well over 300 degrees is OK. Pinch one out of an old speaker.........
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Look at that, sign on and a new reply! The sensor seems to be brass, so no chance there. BUT I thought of sticking a powerful magnet on the sump, should hold bits of steel. Take the magnet off when doing an oil change? Alternatively, wack a powerful magnet inside the sump and leave until the engine is next apart. Cant see that causing an issue either.
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Wow, not exactly cheap. I paid under a tenner for thye gauge and sender unit, and now a few quid for the reducer so I can measure the sump temp. Probably £12 all in, inly downside it has a painted silver bezel rather than a chrome one.... But a nice, easy to fit addition....(as in your suggestion) I will post some data up in a few weeks, may wait until the trackday, see what happens there!
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Solved. A quick look at ebay found 3/8npt to 1/8npt adapters. Simple.
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I want to fit an oil temp gauge to the toledo (just to see how things get on with the oil cooler now fitted) Trouble is where to fit it. The ideal place is the cooler hoses, but the curves are tight enough already and an adapter would make them difficult. Next place is the sump. Not wanting to drill and put a fitting in the sump, I am thinking of a sump plug which is threaded already for a sender. Anybody seen one? before I have to start rummaging in the garage and borrowing a tap etc. (Oh, and the oil gallery plugs do not have enough depth and the wrong thread, the oil pressure takeoff tapping could be done with a modifield T piece, but the oil flow is static and will be away from the block.) Cheers Clive
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^^^ good point. The cheap fibreglass ones are just that,. cheap. The T6 are excellent, but it is a case of you get what you pay for.