Radders
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Everything posted by Radders
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The band doesn't look wide enough to be TR5, they look more like TR4 to me, but I maybe wrong. I always thought that TR5 looked more like TR6 wheels, but with slots in them. I used to have 2 of each on Gertie
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Team Gertie this time is: Steve Radley (Of course) Dave Saunders Darren Sharpe Entry goes in the post tomorrow 🙂
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Is that Dave Jones in that picture? That's the closest I've ever seen him to doing any work on a car
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I tend to shy away from 'New old stock' parts. If the car range is 40 to 50 years old, so will the 'New old stock' be 🙂
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Sounds more like a rear wheel bearing to me. Have you got a spare hub and drive shaft you can try before you start crawling underneath?
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I had this in my diary for this year, but a serious pelvis and disc injury are keeping me out of all events at present. That's also why I withdrew from the CT Essex rally. 🙁 Maybe next year?
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The car doesn't even look like it's strapped to the lorry! 🙂
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If there's no leaking from any of the wheel areas, check behind the top of the brake pedal. It may be leaking from the master cylinder. The seals go in them.
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No, but's it got salt in it. What do you think caused the rust? 🙂
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White,rust and dirt.
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No wonder you hit 'em. You should have wiped your windows down before driving like that! 😀
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Gutted for him. He's done a lot of prep work on that car in the past few months. And all because a pig ran out on front of him in Czech! 🙁
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Oh I see. Thanks Roger.
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According to the message diary, Doug and Andy Thompson are out already with a blown diff. Can anyone verify?
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Entry will be in the post tomorrow from Radders & Saunders. 🙂
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Looking very good Lawrence :)
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I've not used one, but they don't look bad. Let me know what the results are if you get one Matt. :)
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Andy Thompson will able to give you a name for better mounts as well. I think they are designed for Australian Holdens? (They look like a hotel reception bell) :)
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5005 wrote: some are such rubbish quality, they dont even last long enough to get the car futher than the end of the driveway !!!!, One of my brand new ones broke as soon as I rested my engine on it when re-fitting! :o
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570 wrote:My only recent experience is taking the inertia starter off and on the 2000 with witor extractor and sump guard. Works fine. Lighter than pre engaged as well and turns over the nearly 11. 1 comp fine. Can you use an inertia starter on a 2.5 engine? (Dave asked me today and I didn't know) The inertia starter is shorter than the pre-engaged by the look of it, so you would have more room to remove or fit it.
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570 wrote:There's quite a few different spacers. Is this for a standard starter? Im sure you can get a pre engaged off and on with an extractor manifold. Inertia is no problem and ive taken a pre engaged off a tr5 with extractor manifold still attached. Dont think youll have a problem Hi Darren, Doesn't the TR5 6-3-1 manifold go straight down vertically, where as the big saloon 6-3-1 manifold leans back slightly to miss the steering link? When I changed the gearbox on Dave Jones Mk1 with 6-3-1 manifold I couldn't remove the pre engaged starter completely and just had to prop it out of the way. I also never used to have a spacer on my hi-torque starter on Gertie, but then when I had it reconditioned had to fit one as it was no longer clearing the ring gear! Weird!
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5005 wrote:hi steve, mk1, so original external swirl pot along with inline filter ??? if so im guessing ! the rubber pipes you need are 1/4" i/d, i've got one in the lock up if you want me to measure the metal pipes comming from the swirl pot ?? dave harvey will know for sure or c/w Hi Lloyd, yes, original external swirl pot with inline filter Thanks Steve
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Cant believe nobody seems to know this!
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Hi, the fuel pipes on my Mk1 Pi that run to and from the filter are too short to allow the standard lucas fuel pump set up to mount on the boot floor as it should. Can anyone tell me what the fuel pipe size should be please? :)