Dannyb

When you fitted the rings,did you make sure the ring gaps where in the correct position. Not all lined up.

Yeah Knebworth will be easy. I will be available for Friday and the Sunday if needed.  It will be a pleasure. Danny      

Hi, Although I cannot take part in the RBRR 2020. Because of daughters 40th Birthday on the Saturday. I would like to help out with the Marshaling or other duties. Danny

Happened to me 50 years ago with my Spit 4. It had a Ashley fast back top fitted, and the rigid extension filler pipe had broken and I filled the boot.   Danny

Non taxed and was due Nov 2010. I suspect it has gone to the scrap heap in the sky

If the original pump is ok yes,but I have tried a couple of new pumps that are crap and unreliable. At least with the electric pump you can prime the carbs without having to turn the engine over. Unless of course there's a priming lever on the old pump. Danny

You could fit a fuel regulator to adjust the pressure to the carb.

It could be bore glaze. If the bores are not worn you could hone the bores and fit new rings. It would be best to remove the engine to do this but can be done in situ. The problem is washing the muck after honing from the internals. I'm sure more experienced guys on the forum will advise.   Danny

TR Bitz  Appleton Autodrome, Swineyard Lane, Appleton, Warrington WA16 0SD open at 9am

I would try all the above tests before removing the head.

Yeah see that now in the first post.  

This also helped take up play.

Also the gauge may not be that accurate. Mine under reads by almost 10 lb.

When I fitted a new slave cylinder it did not go far enough into the housing therefore not pushing the operating rod enough. The groove where the bolt goes through I had to grind a bit away to allow the slave to go further into the bellhousing. Also any slight wear in the clevis pin on the master cylinde r/ clutch pedal makes a huge difference at the slave end. Danny

Have you tried loosening the dizzy clamp getting someone to start the car while you move the dizzy by hand. Once started you can then get a timing light on it.   Danny

Try Vintage Tyre's 01869 879541  

That looks great.

You could take off the top cover and check the gears for worn/broken teeth etc. But I would just do as John says above and see how it goes. Also you say this one has an overdrive fitted so you will need to see if that works OK at the same time.   Danny

Definitely need to warm the top up.  I used a blower heater inside the car.

Just look on Youtube. shows you how to fit them

Forget my last post . I did not read the symptoms correctly. That's the problem when looking via my mobile. No coil should get that hot. I had a leaking coil but never got that hot so I expect it never lost enough oil. 

Check float bowls. Are they over flowing. Could be the float valves are sticking.  

Thanks. Just up the road from me. I'll pop in there.

I had a problem with the float chamber emptying. Spity run like a dog but ticked over ok. checking the float chambers and found the front was very low in fuel. Check the pump pressure at the small rubber pipe that connect the float chamber to the steel pipe that goes between each float chamber. Pressure was ok so I changed the float jet and seat, but still the same problem. So I removed the pipe with both short rubber pipes connections attached and blew down the pipe backwards (front carb to back carb )  all OK.  Then I blew down the pipe from the other direction the way the petrol flows and it was blocked. I cut the rubber pipe open along it's length and found the inner coating of the pipe had broke away and was a flap acting as a one way valve.  So when inserting the pressure gauge into the pipe it pushed open the flap. Always expect the unexpected with a Triumph

Took it out for a run this afternoon but not for long as soon as I opened it up it lost power. I suspect fuel starvation and the float needle valves need cleaning where it's been standing for five months.