Rallyspit

Not in North Yorks, but Sheffield Overdrive Services (Tel 0114 248 2632) may be worth a call. Otherwise Mike Papworth in the club.

The 1300 small crank engine is now coming back together, but I can't find my front of crankshaft oil flinger. Any suggestions where I can get a replacement? None of the usual suspects have any in stock. It's the same as the 1147 Herald & Spitfire engines, not the later large crank version.

The 1300 small crank engine is now coming back together, but I can't find my front of crankshaft oil flinger. Any suggestions where I can get a replacement? None of the usual suspects have any in stock. It's the same as the 1147 Herald & Spitfire engines, not the later large crank version.

I fitted Mk2 MX5 seats to my road-going Spitfire, and as there are only two of us who drive the car (and we about the same height - 5'9") I removed the Mazda subframes completely and bolted the seat bases through the floor with square spreader plates underneath. They were then slightly too low, so the drivers seat is now supported by metal bobbins approx 1.5" high. They are firm, comfortable and supportive with adjustable backrest and headrests. I used the LH seat on the RH drivers side, and vica-versa The one mistake I made was assuming the LH seat base mountings were identical (or at least a mirror image of the RH seat) It's not, and having made only one cardboard template for drilling the floor, I had to weld up a few spare holes! The race car has a Kirkey unpadded aluminium seat on competition mountings, which is actually more comfortable than it sounds - but then most racetracks don't have too many potholes.

Looking forward to beating you again at Snetterton Mike & Martin

PM sent to original poster

Hi John, we'll be in the same CSCC series, and look forward to seeing you there. We should make Croft, but will possibly marshal at Silverstone (it's worth one upgrade signature too - an extra bonus!) It's also worth noting just how helpful Peter and Melanie have been during the process.

Whoopee! Nat B Race licence ARDS test passed today at Mallory Park, to add to my Nat A rally competition licence. A steep learning curve now to our first race (probably Croft on 23/07) in my old ex-Fred Nicklin road rally Mk3 Spitfire - now much modified.To state I'm delighted would be a huge understatement, especially as my compulsory medical included the question "Do you have any mental or psychological problems?" Obviously being an OAP and wanting to start circuit racing doesn't count.

What a fantastic achievement, and the bar has been raised (again) for the 2018 event. It's also worth pointing out that not only did CT support Guide Dogs for the Blind, at Blyth (and probably other places as well) they came out and supported us. We had two very personable and interested GDftB local reps who stayed with the marshalling team at Blyth for most of the night. They deserve every penny that CT members raised.

Hi, I've recently cleaned and sealed my Mk3 spitfire tank (and a spare) with POR15, which has done an excellent job. However - having poured out the sealant the thread on the tank is unrecognisable, and needs a blind tap to restore. Does anyone know what the thread size is?

"I have yet to hear an argument that would move soldering ahead of crimping" [Google]. Here's one: Soldering completely removes the possibility of moisture getting in the joint causing oxidation and a high resistance between the parts joined - crimping doesn't. Just make sure your cable and lug are clean and use flux and sufficient heat.

I bought the Frost brake pipe flare tool last week. It arrived in 48 hours, and I spent last Saturday doing all my brake pipes. Perfect flares every time, (and I only once forgot to put the nut on first).

Sounds more like masochism than physics

On your video you can see the overflow bottle pressurising as you rev the engine. Almost certainly head gasket failure or a cracked head. Sorry - don't shoot the messenger!

Hi Tim, I'm happy to help marshal Blyth services. Mike R

If you mean the brackets that fit inside the boot, one attached to the floor, the other to the inner side panel, I've got spares for both RH & LH sides for the Mk3 spit.

Happy to be corrected, I must stop believing everything I read. (Atlas 6.66:1 Wow? No wonder they were ssllooww....)

Are you using the Marina van cwp, John? The 4.85 (Atlas van and early herald) was made of pastry and not to be advised.

That looks fantastic and the colour really suits the TR7, Beans, but what is the powder blue (?) car behind it?

Shed 1969 has posted a set of CD150 carbs for sale on the "under £500" section of the forum which sound like a good deal and could be the answer to your problems. No connection etc.

Hi Marcus, That's a fantastic idea to get rid of the Triumph rattle on startup. For those of us not so adept at welding stainless steel, could you not also use a fire extinguisher casing for the pressure chamber? Mike

Hi Tom, PM sent

Or fit an overdrive and have two extra gears?

Is Worksop near enough for you? I have the correct puller which you could borrow. My technique is to tighten the puller onto the hub flange and - instead of getting a hernia - I put the whole lot in a vice and set an air gun (on the lowest torque setting) banging away at the nut. Heat also helps. It normally takes 10/15 minutes to shock it apart. Always use a new hub nut on reassembly. It may however be that you've already bent the hub flanges - in which case I could also have some spares, assuming they are the same as a Mk3 Spitfire. PM me if interested. Mike

Funnily enough I have an 2.5S overdrive gearstick which I'm about to throw away. It's not pristine, and there's no overdrive switch on the top. No beer tokens required, just postage. PM me with your contact details. Mike