Rallyspit
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Everything posted by Rallyspit
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Both 1300 and 1500 engines have identical block height. What size is the crank pulley nut? If it's 1.5", you've got the correct Mk3 1296cc small bearing engine, If the nut is 1 & 13/16th, it's either a 1300 Mk4 or a 1500 engine. If it is the larger nut, you'll have to take a plug out and either use a bit of stiff wire to guestimate the stroke, or use a pipette to measure the volume difference between top dead centre and bottom dead centre. Another point is most 1500's would have a single rail gearbox fitted. It would be unusual to mate one to a 3 synchro Mk3 box. At least with the number beginning with F, you know it's some sort of spitfire engine! Edited to ask: Are you reading the number from the V5 or the engine block?
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FWIW, I recently had success (twice!) using the Churchill tool, tightening the centre bolt as far as possible and then putting my Clarke air wrench with the correct socket on the number 1 torque setting and just left it chugging over. It took about 15 minutes and the hub came off undamaged and without any drama. Only did it because I wanted to fit GT6 backplates. Always use a new nut on the shaft when you re-tighten.
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Autos, limited slip diffs and overdrives all have clutches - of one sort or another - in them. The STP additive will make your oil too slippery and the clutches won't bite properly!
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Both the brake and side light arrangement on the Mk1-3 Spit and Mk1-2 GT6 leave something to be desired with their rivetted construction and bits of crusty plastic insulation. I modified mine by chucking all the internals away, cutting out the inside of the monkey metal frame and adapting a Mk4 Spit lampholder and reflector to fit. I also removed the silver tape behind the reflector on the lens. I've now got one dual filament 21/5W bulb and one single filament 10W bulb. How you wire them is up to you but I use mine as a 10W + 5W sidelight, and a 21W brakelight. If you utilised two dual filament lampholders, you could also incorporate rear foglights, but I didn't as I was concerned about the heat generated perhaps warping or even melting the plastic lens if left on for long periods - as a fog light could be. Intermittent use of 21W of brakelight is not likely to cause any problems. It's still not as bright as a modern, but much better (and safer) than the original.
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If you're not having any problems with wheel bearings etc., don't pull the hubs. Depending on the length of wheel stud you're putting in, either just take off the brake drum and wiggle the studs in, or drill a hole in the backplate and draw them through using a wheelnut. If you find that they are wobbly, use some araldite to lock them in. I used Gp4 Escort rally studs. Looking at them I was convinced they'd never fit, but the splines are the same size. They are longer and I drilled the rear backplates and just pushed them through. Using the same studs at the front, I did have to file a flat on the top lip of the stud so they could seat properly on the hub. Much better/safer than the standard weedy wheel studs! However, if you live in Yorkshire/North Notts, I do have a puller you could borrow. (I'm near Worksop)
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Don't know about Suffolk, but I wouldn't hesitate to recommend Ken Newman at Newman Cams in Farnborough Kent Tel: 01689 857109 They have been most helpful to me in the past. It sounds like you may be in need of a new camshaft if the fuelpump lever has worn a groove. What state is the lever in?
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Don't know about Suffolk, but I wouldn't hesitate to recommend Ken Newman at Newman Cams in Farnborough Kent Tel: 01689 857109 They have been most helpful to me in the past. It sounds like you may be in need of a new camshaft if the fuelpump lever has worn a groove. What state is the lever in?
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Hi Wim, These heatshields are designed to prevent heatsoak which vaporises the fuel before it reaches the carb jets. They are ok, but you could improve them further by rivetting an additional sheet of aluminium underneath with a small (5-10mm) gap between them. Heat will still radiate from a single sheet heatshield. The other thing to check is the SU carb to inlet manifold gasket - is it the thick one (about 6-7mm) which prevents heatsoak to the carbs from the inlet manifold? If this is missing, the engine will die about every 15 minutes on a hot day with fuel vaporisation. The only cure is to pour cold water over the carbs or wait until everything has cooled down - ask me how I know! It's also worth installing exhaust wrap on a tubular manifold - but that only moves the heat further down the line, so the excess heat could be concentrated under your gearbox, which means a hot interior. Some say that exhaust wrap shortens the life of your exhaust manifold, but I've rallied cars fitted with 10 year old exhaust wrap without any ill effects - and they do get hot! Another alternative for keeping things cool on the manifold side is to duct air from in front of the radiator to that side of the engine. Also check your fuel line from the fuel pump to the carbs. Does it pass any "hot spots" on the way? I don't think there is any appreciable difference between the aluminium and stainless steel heatshields unless you're after a bit of bling under the bonnet....
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Spitfire Graveyard used to have a picture on their website of a spitfire that had a hard shunt up the back. The spare wheel moved forward until it met the diff which stopped the collision damage entering the cabin. Although the car was totally written off (hence why it was at the Graveyard) the occupants escaped injury. The spare wheel is bolted to a bracket (not just a stud through the floor) which is welded to the boot floor and secured by a wheelnut. It's about 2 inches right of the centre point of the boot floor. Probably a precurser of the airbag concept!
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Thanks for that info, just got to find one first....
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Is it a swingspring? If so, it's part no BH605221 at Rimmers. In stock at £1.50. If it's not a swingspring, where exactly is your central bolt?
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Just replacing my 3rail box with an overdrive single rail. Can anyone tell me where I can get a suitable rubber gaiter - and any suggestions on how to fit it. It would seem it has to stretch a long way to get over the gearstick anti-vibration weight thingy.
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I doubt any normal fuelpump will cope with triple webers. They need around 4 psi. Look out for a Facet Red-top pump and a regulator.
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Marcus, delighted to help after all the good advice you have given me. The yokes are the same size. UJ's are the same size. Only the flange (and nuts and bolts) are bigger on the later cars. I've got a 3.89 diff with the larger flange and it fitted fine on my mk3 Spit which originally used the small flange propshaft. I used genuine Volvo UJs although I believe Freelander UJs are as good.
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Thanks to Marcus and Clive for that info. I shall go down the route of trial-fitting jubilee clips to gauge what width of spacers I'll need, and then make up a nylon (or even rubber) bush. The thought of having a bit of "cushion" which only comes into play when you're on full lock is quite appealing in a "let's protect the rack and steering arm if you hit something hard" sort of way.
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I've got a 2.5 turn lock to lock quick rack for the Mk3 Spitfire and want to reduce the total movement lock to lock. My current tyres contact the chassis on full lock, and I don't need a 24 foot turning circle anyway! I understand the kit car lads use spacers, as did Lotus Cars back in the 60's. Has anyone done this in a Spitfire, and what size spacers did you fit inside the rack?
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Some electric fans are pushers, some are pullers. Testing one fan by fitting it either side of the Rad would probably give different readings anyway as the aerodynamics for the fan blades would be all wrong working in the reverse direction. I fitted a pusher in front of the full width rad, after making sure all the radiator gills were straight and not clogged up with insects and other debris.
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It's actually ls1gt6.com but well worth a look. Thanks for the link.
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1344 wrote: I don't wish to cause a row but if the above can,could or will happen then there's no point me entering any events as I know I'll never ever stand a chance of ever wining the series or more to the point I will always be bottom of the list going by my current results,even if I entered every event The nearest I ever came to fame and fortune (sadly not in a Triumph) was on one of the early Roger Albert Clark rallies. We won our class, got a slightly smaller cup than the overall winner (Blonqvist) . He was reputed to have spent around £500,000 on the event. We spent £495000 less. Did he have more fun than us? Unlikely. Just get out there and have fun!
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Thanks for that info, John. I expect it's not the gearing that's different, but the "stroke" ie the radius of the pivot from the centre wheel driven by the worm gear in the motor that causes the wiper rack to move further in either direction. I'll contact Stafford for some specifications.
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Early Mk3 spits have a shorter distance between the wiper spindles, and would therefore need a larger angle "sweep". I would also be interested to know what gearing to use in the later 2 speed wiper motor, 'cos mine doesn't sweep far enough either.
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Now that sounds a good idea! Is there a kit available, or any other ideas on installation?
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Don't know about the rotoflex GT6, but I fitted GT6 brakes front and rear on my swingspring spitfire with Ford "Group 4" studs all round with metric nuts and minilite wheels because on my first competitive event with a Spitfire I bent 7 Triumph studs and snapped one. The front studs require a flat to be filed for clearance issues and to remain square on to the hub face. The rear studs are best fitted by drilling a hole in the GT6 backplate and pushing the studs through. I didn't need to file a flat on the rears. They fit beautifully with escort wheel nuts which have the 60 degree seat. My studs stick out beyond the nuts when tightened, but that's hardly an issue provided you use the nuts without the chromed caps. A spot of Araldite on the stud splines is also a useful tip. (Most of the stage rally guys do this.)
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The MGF wheels (available in various alloy patterns) are a direct swap, but if you buy them complete with tyres be aware that BL fitted wider tyres to the rear and they will foul on a Spitfire. The 14 inch wheel will also upset the handling, as sufficient tyre wall flex is a key factor with a swing-spring. If you're still thinking of uprating, also consider using LR Defender or similar wheel studs and matching nuts.