Rallyspit
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Everything posted by Rallyspit
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Look at those weights! That's one very out-of-balance wheel you've got there......
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The TR4,5 & 6 and GT6 mk 1 & 2 (and Spitfires 1,2,& 3) share the same windscreen so I would assume that the wiper sweep would be the same.
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The Herald never had an OHC engine, with the exception of a few converted by Jack Brabham, the racing driver, who fitted a Coventry Climax engine. The Triumph 948cc and 1147cc had siamesed ports (similar to the 'A'series,) but the 1296cc and 1493cc had 4 ins and 4 outs! The only major difference in overall design are the thrust washers on the back of the crankshaft. Test these for wear by dipping the clutch. The crankshaft pulley will move noticeably if these are badly worn (or worse, have dropped into the sump). If this has happened you may need a new block. Otherwise it's a delightfully easy engine to work on. The Herald never used a BL engine, although BL used the 1493cc for the rubber bumper MG Midget, because the US market was having a hissyfit about the emmisions of the 'A' series. The only other major part shared with BL was the later gearbox which was used in the Morris Marina (with slightly closer ratios) although all Heralds had the earlier 3 rail gearbox with syncro on 2, 3 & 4) For sheer driveability, the small crank 1296cc (Herald 13/60) is the best and is almost identical to the Mk3 Spitfire engine, and - as stated earlier - a lot of parts are interchangeable across the range. The car is well supported for spares too, although some body panels are becoming scarce. The Triumph name was bought by BMW when BL went to the wall. There are no plans to re-introduce the brand.
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Hi guys, Looking forward to seeing you all at Blyth tonight. If anyone is in trouble on the run up and needs help at Blyth (Notts.) Services (or in my garage) give me a call as I only live 6 miles (as the crow flies) from Blyth and will be there from 7:00pm. I'm familiar with UNF spanners and often rally service when I'm not competing on Historic Stage events. I'm on 07906 569636. Mike
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Just removing the carbs and inlet manifold as one won't upset any settings provided you get the exhaust/inlet gasket to seal properly again afterwards. However, changing the exhaust manifold to a four branch will need the carb needles resetting (or changing) as the engine breathing characteristics will be different because of the new exhaust manifold. Gunsons Colourtune is your friend if you don't want to pay again for a rolling road set-up.
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pm sent
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You can't leave the handbrake on once you've removed the handbrake lever. It's only the ratchet that holds it on and that's part of the lever. Check that the handbrake cable between both brakedrums is slack and try moving the levers at the end of the handbrake cable on the back of the brake drum towards the drum as they could be seized. If this doesn't free it, adjust the square nut on the back of the drum to slacken the brake shoes as much as possible and give the brake drum a good clout. The brake shoes/linings could be stuck to the inside of the drum. If that doesn't free the brakes, you'll have to strip down the rear brakes, an easy job once you've managed to get the brake drum off! Copper grease is your friend when re-assembling.
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So does sticking it in a vice and screwing bleed nipples into both orifices, leave one nipple slack and give it a squirt of compressed air. Don't look down the cylinder as you do it though! Best to cover the cylinder end with a big soft cushion or similar - it can come out at great speed.
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The way that fan is mounted without a top support means it will "propel" straight through your radiator if you hit deep water. Also most of its effectiveness is lost by not having a shroud. Regarding your low compression, as the "oil round the piston test" restored it, almost certainly rings or bore wear. What colour is the oil? It will be black if compression is leaking past the rings.
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Even those battery operated wheel nut removers would work, (The motor spins up and suddenly engages the 1/2" drive) It's the jolt that loosens the nut, but I would still recommend an air powered wrench - and think of all the other lovely accessories you can use when you've got a compressor.... Don't do what I did last time I removed the pulley. I prised out the woodruff key and it pinged across the garage and hid for over an hour!
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Modern wiring is invariably "thinwall" insulated. Although the wiring may look lot thinner it is still capable of carrying heavier loads. As modern cars tend to use relays (lots of - my Volvo had over 20) there's no problem in using thinner wire for the relay switching circuit, but the main feed to the relays and onwards to the high current item, eg lights, horn, radiator fan, sound system, etc. is invariably made of chunkier stuff. My Volvo used starter type cable as the feed to the battery - but it did kick out 100 amps. The thicker the cable, the less resistive loss - which is particularly good for lighting! Vehicle Wiring Products have a website catalogue with a guide to typical current useage and the correct cable to use. Better to over-engineer and build in lots of fuses! I've seen quite a few fried Spitfire looms.
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Hi Wim, Just been to check the big box marked "Door Furniture" I've got a spare Mk4 LH door pull and it's in good condition. Yours for the asking! Is anyone passing Worksop on the way to Belgium? Otherwise I'll post it if you pm me the details. Mike
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Make sure that with the thicker alloy wheel there is still sufficient length of wheelstud available to screw on your wheels securely. I fitted minilites to my spit, torqued them to 45 f/p and one hillclimb later I had several bent studs. I replaced them all with Ford Escort "Group 4" studs and got the 60 degree chamfer nuts to match from my local Ford dealer. When you compare the two types alongside each other you'll never believe the Ford ones will fit a Triumph - but they do!
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Whoa.... don't use gasoline (petrol). Use engine oil to check if the rings are leaking, petrol has very low viscosity and will drip straight past the rings and not seal them sufficiently to do any reliable diagnosis. Even oil will slowly seep past the rings. Use a quick squirt of oil and do your compression test (with all spark plugs removed, coil disconnected and throttle pedal down) for a more reliable reading. That engine also looks very clean, is it recently rebuilt? If so did you hone the cylinder bores, 'cos if not it will exhibit all the symptoms you describe.
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1) Have you checked that the accelerator pedal linkage isn't binding somewher along it's travel? Has it got it's own return spring? 2) Is there sufficient "pull" in the return spring on the carb? 3) Does the damper in the carb when lifted by hand land with a satisfying clunk or is it sticking? There is oil in the dashpot? 4) Have you checked the carb butterfly spindle for binding or the butterfly itself for obstruction? Other than that, I don't know! Hope it helps.
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Interesting thread. I was talking to Dave at Spitfire Graveyard only yesterday and he told me that the GT6 3.89 diff has larger bearings. Only reason he found out was that a customer bought a diff from him intending to replace the bearings and the ones he had bought didn't fit. Perhaps there are two different types?
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vitessesteve wrote: Generally the car consumes it electric from the charging system be it dynamo or alternator, that why racing cars can get away with having no battery because they are jump started in the pits. The battery provides the big power for the starter and gets topped up by the charging system. Racing cars do have batteries (generally Varta RedTops), but where regulations allow, the alternator is removed as it saps a couple of bhp. A racing car could easily do an event running entirely from a small 12v battery - it's only powering the ignition system and possibly a "rain light". Jump starting in the pits is done either because there is no starter motor or to preserve the smaller battery, which may not have the necessary amperage to turn over a high compression engine anyway. However if you took off a battery and still had the alternator connected the voltage produced would rise considerably and fry your electrics. If you've got loads of extra electrical equipment, lights, stereo, best advise is to uprate your alternator first - this will allow the engine to generate enough amps without draining the battery. If you've got a high compression engine fit a bigger battery - the alternator won't help you start the car!
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Hi Nigel, Your threads are always read with interest. I especially enjoyed my ride in your TR at the Oulton Park Gold Cup last year and can vouch for how well prepared and torquey this TR4 is. A good tip re the Bowler WC2 seats - thank you. I'm about to vist Alan at Motordrive to get some seats sorted for the Spitfire - even less room in that than a TR4! Keep writing. Mike
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Hi Wim, Definitely not the battery. You're almost certainly right about the alternator. It's not normally worth replacing the diodes, etc., a new/exchange one is cheap enough. If he uses a large amount of current, for example big stereo, or extra lights, it may be worth considering an upgrade to a higher power one. I seem to remember that the standard MGB alternator is only the same as our Triumphs, at 45 Amp output. Just a thought - you have checked that the fan belt is not too slack and slipping under load?
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Hi Wim, The igition light is fed on one side from the 12v live ignition circuit and the other side "excites" the alternator to get it charging. Once the alternator has started charging, there's 12 volts on both sides of the light, and it goes out. It does sound like the alternator is failing. Is his battery constantly going flat? Alternatively has someone been playing with the wiring to the ignition light, perhaps connecting it to earth?
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Thanks for the tip, £3.45 for 5 green leds - result!
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I've got to agree with Richard B. The implications of the shaft snapping at a weak point compared with the cost of a new shaft - no contest!
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Assuming you continue using the standard mk3 driveshafts, the wheel will be in exactly the same place relative to the wheelarch as before. It's only if you use the longer 1500 shafts that the wheel moves out and will contact the arch. The angle of the vertical link will make no difference to the rear track. May I suggest that your problem is with the larger wheel/tyre combination. I'm using a swingspring with 5.5 minilite wheels, and as previously stated they're a tight fit. A lot will depend on the tyres, I found out the hard way that not all makes are the same width, even though they may be marked the same.
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Many thanks, gentlemen. The Picton site looks very promising, but with a fibreglass bonnet, welding in the necessary strengthening may prove difficult - but helpful nonetheless.