poppyman

Just be carefull you dont end up like this poor chap

You can still buy halogen bulbs that fit that type of reflector, the H4 normally has 3 locating pins, it will fit the socket but not the reflector. Cheers, Tony. PS, Manners sell them.

Under " car radiator muff" Non for the triumph range but item 302543952961 looks like it would adapt Cheers, Tony.

There are quite a selection on ebay at the moment Cheers, tony.

Hi Nick, I did try them and they were very helpfull, but all they could do was rebuild the old one. Which was sadly not an option But we are going to try the Paddocks unit that is now back in stock Cheers,  Tony.

Hi all, Has anyone got a "STAG" NOS laycock centre plate they want to sell Or a worn one that we can get rebuilt? or where we can get one from? Cheers, Tony.  

Hi Darren, Sounds like voltage stabiliser unit to me. To check temp guage just put the wire off the sender to earth and needle should go to hot, same with fuel guage Cheers, Tony.

Also possible seized ball joint I have had that before.

Hi Bruce, Try stafford vehicle components The ones i have got are the lucas type that i got from there. Cheers, Tony. ps The type i have got are same as in the picture, As fitted to jaguars.

Hi Bruce, Hope you are feeling better You missed a great breakfast If you email me wednesday, (to remind me) if i get to the meeting i will bring a sample toggle switch with me. I am in hospital wednesday, but all being well i will be there Cheers, Tony.

Hi Stuart, You will find an interesting read about this on the "dolomite" club forum Including which nuts and or studs to use. Cheers, Tony.

Are you doing it in your wheelchair Bruce   I can give you some tips if so

As nang say's, i would not be to worried a bit of "ucl" will do no harm at all, just put a new valve in and make sure it is lapped in well Tony.

Have you compared it to the other valves?  as they do have some play in them. Tony.

Hot or cold has been discussed on here before, but old habits die hard Having been in the motor trade for nigh on 5o years, i was always taught to set them hot. So really its up to what everyone wants to do. I have got to say though i have never had a burnt valve. You will notice in every hayne's manual a disclaimer at the front, so don't always believe what the manual say's They are not always right, and i dont profess to be perfect, but i have found many good tips on here, so we are alway's learning. Cheers, Tony.

Thats good easy fix then. I did spot the 3 --4 bit on the gasket, but i thought stay with the compression problem, plus a new gasket will sort that out The valve might have been caused by tappets being to tight You will soon know when you get the valve out

No, they should be done hot, as the metal parts will expand when hot and close the gaps. If you do them cold, leave another 3 thou clearance to allow expansion   

The wet test is only really for rings, and should be done with engine oil not gear oil. You can still have a burnt valve especially if the tappets are a bit tight. They should be done done hot and i always back them off by having a just slight pull on the feeler gauge. Tony.

Around the 150 mark is about right, giving the fact you have done the rbrr, i would now suspect an exhaust valve. so i would now take the valves out and see what they are like, as even using an additive the valves still run hotter on long runs at highish continuess speeds. The smoke on the video is not excessive by any means. Keep us posted Cheers, Tony.

If you go down the route of taking the pistons out? I would measure the bores as you might not need a rebore and just get away with new rings Also you might just have a "stuck" ring if it has been stood for a while in the past? It would be interesting to see the pistons if and when they come out Cheers, Tony.

Personally i would change the head gasket first, as the low compression should not really make a lot of differance in power loss Like someone else said you can take the piston out and not find anything One test my old gaffer used to do to check rings, is to get all the pistons level with each other and then put a measured amount of engine oil in each bore and see which one drained out first It is a bit time consuming, but i guess its not  your daily driver Good pics by the way Cheers, tony.

Looking at the lighter shade and loss of carbon on no2 cyl, suggests to me head gasket failure in its very early stages Anyone else think that?? Surely there would be marks on the bore if it was a ring?  

Sadly it does look like oil smoke

Definately