esxefi
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Everything posted by esxefi
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it does work but is not recommended to be fitted to stainless manifolds.apparently they fracture or can break up due to the high thermal cycling.
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probably but there is the added bonus of a better oil seal to the head and slight reduction in top end noise.
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maybe due to clearance issues under the bonnet and it is not as simple a casting as the 4 and 6cyl types so cost prohibitive?
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^^now there's somewhere to hide when the missus next wants me to mow the lawn
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I think you have answered the question already. the clutch was dry when taken apart and you experienced clutch slip so I would say it needs to be almost completely immersed to work properly unless something else is the cause. although it seems to go against logical engineering thinking,get oil on a car clutch and it is more or less toast.
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give them a light tap before doing up the screws to help seat them,although when you set the idle speed the plates won't be sealing fully anyway therefore it is not so important. it does get more critical as the size of the carbs increases in relation to engine volume.or like the pi bodies with one barrel per cylinder.
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stu you need a set of these,.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like.....id%253D1017137800857
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tricky one. I would start with isolating the motor and looking for an earth leakage,now the thing is you need to work out what resistance each wire should have as it is a 2 speed motor and they will have different values. but on the plus side if it only blew a fuse when you turned it off it could be the isolator switch in the wheel housing that is faulty. I need to look at a wiring diagram to be more precise but I would start there.
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I inserted a piece of thin wall tube down the oil way,lightly squeezed in the middle so it wouldn't drop all the way down into the block(make sure it goes tight if you try to push it down the hole)put an 'o' ring around the tube to sit in the gasket hole and carefully fitted head,haven't had a leak at the rear for 10+years now. but you must check that the hole in the block and the head align almost perfectly,the head studs do allow a small amount of movement of the head.
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after removing the feed pipe and blanking off the union at the oil pressure switch just remove spark plugs and crank over with a good battery there should be some oil expelled out of where the blanking bolt goes on the head if the original oil feed system isn't blocked.it will only be a dribble so don't worry about oil spraying everywhere.a rag under it will be ok.
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Instructions for fitting Canley's Trunionless kit
esxefi replied to Harveyzone's topic in Running Gear
hmm, without going into the garage and looking i don't recall there being any spacers in my kit.are they a later addition? I bought mine about 5 years ago(still in the box )front end rebuild and brake upgrade this year I think. who else has a kit with/without spacers? -
it depends on what else is done to the engine tuning wise. generally a straight through exhaust or tube is better for performance at the trade off of increased noise,from what you state above the best for performance is the tubular manifold and straight through system but if the induction side is standard I would maybe fit the stainless section with the silencer for reduced noise as otherwise there is no benefit
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time for a dyno session!
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time for a dyno session!
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cam timing even out by a few degrees either way should allow the engine to start if everything else is good.you may have to open the throttles slightly,richen the mixture or swing the timing some more.correct cam timing is more relevant to producing power within its designed operating envelope. do you have an original dizzy you can install just to get it running and maybe help point to the problem.it sounds like a mismatch with the 123 dizzy somewhere. an engine needs what it needs in respect of timing and fuel so don't always go by the book and think this must be so.
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cam timing even out by a few degrees either way should allow the engine to start if everything else is good.you may have to open the throttles slightly,richen the mixture or swing the timing some more.correct cam timing is more relevant to producing power within its designed operating envelope. do you have an original dizzy you can install just to get it running and maybe help point to the problem.it sounds like a mismatch with the 123 dizzy somewhere. an engine needs what it needs in respect of timing and fuel so don't always go by the book and think this must be so.
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ptfe lined hose is compatible with all fuels is lightweight and you can make them up yourself(if you have a good vice).but then you need the associated unions on the pump or whatever you attach them to. clive may have been talking about the rubber lined type which could be an unknown spec. if using pi I would rather have the extra insurance of the overbraid than just rubber hose. only problem I have had with the braided hose so far is that I had a small oil weep and couldn't see where it was coming from around the front suspension tower,any way I tracked it down to one of the hoses,took it off and noticed a small spot of the braid was dark,stripped it back and the liner had a tiny hole in it.it must have earthed out on the tower when i was doing some welding on the car and melted the liner. so always isolate the hose from rubbing on any metal with rubber or proper clips etc.
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it will but there is a possible issue with wrap on stainless manifolds in that it means the steel is subject to much higher temperatures that would normally be radiated away(into your fuel system hence the vapour locking)and this can make the steel go brittle and possibly lead to cracking or disintegration. I have made a heat shield from ally sheet that wraps around most of the manifold and goes some way to reduce radiating heat. you can also wrap the float chambers in high heat insulating material foil/matting type with the foil outwards. I ran a fuel return pipe after the carbs back to the tank to help keep the fuel flowing and not soak up unwanted heat,it will need a restrictor in it so the carbs still get enough fuel. ^^ I must type faster,john beat me to it.
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I have a mocal cooler 16row.had it fitted for 20+years now so I assume it was made here,the current ones I couldn't say. but if I was starting from scratch with a cooler now I would go for a water to oil intercooler,quicker warm up and a more stable temperature over oil to air types.
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don't worry nature will soon seal them together
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if putting the six engine in a spit chassis you 'may' need to also change the front suspension turrets for gt6 ones as the spit ones have mounting holes further apart and fitting the six engine with standard engine mounts is hit or miss,literally,the sump might sit on the steering rack. I have used shims but it still touches on a hot day or giving it large with the loud pedal,so much so that I am making some poly mounts to fix it once and for all.
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ooh,.....how much?
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normally used for a brake servo but if you don't have one fitted just fit a blanking plug.
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^^you posted while I was typing,but yes you have done what I thought. there should be a tee piece connecting the pipe from the tank to that hose which is connecting the two carbs together.as that is under lower vacuum pressure.
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sounds like you have connected it to the high vacuum port on the manifold which is too high and will actually increase oil consumption by sucking vapour through the tank. I have two large bore breather hoses,one from the rocker cover and one from where the original fuel pump was,both to the separator tank and then a hose from the tank to the atmospheric side of the intake between the air filter and inlet manifold. there should be a take off on each carb for the breather hoses which will be at a much lower vacuum than connecting it to the one I think you have. but as iain said a pic may help.