esxefi
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Everything posted by esxefi
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don't know if there is enough meat there to bore it out to the larger bearing. it is not something I would do or recommend TBH along with fitting the vitesse stub axle. the triumph suspension already has its own weakness I wouldn't like to add more. I think some of the TR cars use the smaller bearing(not definite on this) as designed and they seem to last ok even with the heavy six pot engine. :-/
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the wool is nice and gives a superior feeling but if it is for a spit(or any convertible for that matter)used regularly i would and did go for the moulded carpet. it holds less water if you forget to raise the roof or get caught in a downpour and will resist mould better plus it's easier to fit.
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796 wrote:Further to Pauls method, did ye pinch mine !!! ;) as Paul puts a warning oot too, I can confirm I saw a CT member had done this mod efta i telt,m aboot it, he went just too far at first go, Picture a bloke, sitt,n on his Arshe Ole, feet, yan either side oft catch, pull,n an tugg,n, pull,n all sorts os faces a Gurning champ woulld ev been proud of, an still it would nae budge, ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D no names mentionee,d incase of litigation, :P her is a pic of what an where. M nah.....more like 'great minds think alike' I reckon :)
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what you need to do is,.. where the roller sits under the claw when engaged is to grind a small indent so the roller has a more positive locking action.you may need to re adjust the body locking plate to get a satisfactory result with increased tension. only remove a very tiny amount of material at a time and test.it works as I have done it and they no longer spring open even over rough roads :)
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I have these in my spit 6.......... http://www.sportsitz.net/cobra/roadster.html they are are good fit,almost look like they were made to be there.not reclinable though but they do hold your body very well in the fast twisty bits. can have them in various combos of trim too.
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just echoing Toledo mans' post. I had the weld around the bell crank arm on the cross shaft shear(quite common) as it is only welded on one side from the factory and is not really strong enough,this can be checked from underneath the car. if the arm is hitting the bell housing then something is wrong. I would think you would need a fair bit of crank end float for the clutch to be that bad.
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clutch could be dragging when pressed and not letting the layshaft stop/slow down. how high is the biting point when slowly raising the pedal in a gear with engine running? sometimes it works to quickly engage a forward gear while stationary before selecting reverse to stop the layshaft spinning.
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as well as what is discussed here I would also suggest...... http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/forum/67-drivetrain/ both have good ideas and advice. :)
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thescrapman wrote:One guy had his commission plate lost by a restorer, and the MOT guy found another random number stamped onto something else. similar thing happened to me. when I first made my convertible gt6 way back in 1988 my garage was broken into and stuff stolen which included the vin plate amongst things. when the car was finished the dvla said it had to be inspected at the local office(long gone). I had both v5 docs but the guy insisted that the chassis no. on the outrigger was the correct one and put that down,me being somewhat young and naïve accepted it and I have had that as the vin no.eversince. I was going to question it with the dvla when the free road tax came about but thought better of it as it may have started FBI type investigations :o
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FWIW my cooler hoses are Teflon lined( I had money then :-/) which is superior to rubber and been on the car for 20yrs with no problems to date. but as Marcus says hard lines are probably the best bet,could even do them in aluminium if you want lightness. ::)
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braiding gives better protection and helps prevent hose burst if say the hose breaks down or delaminates inside,you may not see it and it could pop. some say you can't see the rubber hoses condition with braiding,but if it leaks it will still hold together and 'may' give you some time to cut the engine without serious damage.
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without seeing it it is hard to give an opinion. how did it compare in relation to the one you took out,eg,decent drive straps and substantial materials being used etc? I have no experience of them but just because it is made in Taiwan doesn't necessarily mean it is poor quality........ I just wouldn't do any burn outs at the lights :-/ :)
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Gearbox Choices - 5 Speed Type 9 or other 'box?
esxefi replied to CharliesStag's topic in Drivetrain
t9 may have a short life behind a stag engine,high torque loading. think it is the mk3 celica box which is the same as the supra box. this may help,(borrowed from performance forums). http://performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67161133-Identifying-Toyota-5-speeds. the r154 is a big box but whether it will fit in a saloon tunnel I don't know(overkill anyway for a triumph engine). :) -
offsetting the fronts will load up the steering but will increase auto centralising.as above it will increase reaction but may not be suited to the ackerman setting and you may get excess tyre scrub(not good for trunnions) probably best to look for minilites,superlites or revolution rims. they can be made up for whatever et(backspacing measurement)you want,or go with splitrims if you want more scope :)
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you can also swap over the engine block brackets if you can't get satisfactory alignment.they are off set and will allow extra scope for adjustment,ideally you want the mounts on the front of the turret otherwise it is a right faff to get them out if behind and you want/need to change them without removing the engine completely :)
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I thought they were part of a design to prevent the bonnet riding up onto the windscreen frame in the event of a head on collision so protecting the occupants from possible decapitation,there should be some sort of hooks on the bulkhead which work with the bars. don't know if this is correct but it is what I was led to believe :-/
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there are two problems with welding a boss to a sump, first as mentioned is the difference in material thickness, and second, if the sump has been subject to use it will be contaminated by engine oil making welding very difficult as the oil somehow seems to penetrate into the steel. I tried welding baffles in a used sump and even after grinding back to 'fresh' metal it still was a bugger to get a good weld. brazing will burn off any residue and should allow you to uniformly heat both surfaces to get a good bond. only my opinion of course. :)
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I would think that the yokohamas are not to be used with tubes being that they are radials and their construction is not suitable. it was acceptable to use tubes on crossplys back in the day though. to me it seems a paradox to use performance tyres on wire wheels,but that is just my opinion :)
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worn or failed engine/gearbox mounts are a common cause for juddering,more serious although less likely is warped flywheel,bent rear engine plate or damaged/contaminated clutch lining. check the easy stuff first :)
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i'm sure a decent machine shop could knock one up if you can't get one,hours work,tops. :)
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not very helpful for people with the g/box in situ but a lot of modern cars have quite a large clearance in the bearing carrier,relying on the bearing to centralise itself on the diaphragm fingers when the clutch pedal is pressed. I noticed this on the Toyota w series boxes where the carrier body has a plastic liner(glass reinforced nylon)and is a sloppy fit on the g/box nose. it makes sense to do it this way. so machine out your steel carrier and it will be ok.let the bearing do the work.
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there is also the option of changing the diff ratio if you intend to do mainly distance driving,but at the loss of low down acceleration. I put a 3.27 in my wifes 1300spit years ago. noticed the lack of performance and had to work the box a bit more but it made cruising more comfortable.
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it will require a careful set up if using the solid state type otherwise it can run noisily.the pressure of the pump can be enough to prevent the float chamber valves from sealing and the armature inside the pump makes a loud clacking noise as it hits the valve seat(not the way they are designed to run).they are really more suited to weber type carbs but I had some success by restricting the flow with a reduced diameter section of fuel hose before the carbs and running a fuel return to the tank after the carbs which allowed the float chamber seats to work properly and feed them the fuel they needed. :) never tried an interrupter pump so can't comment:-/
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the trouble is with a lot of these new g/boxes is the integrated b/housing. it isn't a bolt on/off job.the gear clusters and gubbings are contained in part within the b/housing casting making conversions difficult in the fact that you need a conversion plate between the triumph engine backplate and the donor bellhousing.(as listed above). what ever happened to 'modular' engineering :-/
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why not buy some electronic scales and weight match what you have already? they are quite cheap and will do within a gram or less. once matched I don't think you should have a problem regardless of origin unless you are racing at the ragged edge. I am assuming the piston heights etc,are the same across them all:-/.... but if they are not it could also apply to a matched set from the factory.