esxefi
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Everything posted by esxefi
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as above,any decent fan will have contoured vanes that work one way only,much like a sail on a yacht. some fans can be inverted with a polarity reverse on the motor to make it a sucker or blower. a fan should only need to be used when stationary or moving below 20-30 mph.any overheating apart from this indicates a problem elsewhere,in front should be fine.the blades rotate anyway when moving so the obstruction to the matrix is less than you think. the biggest improvement you can do with an electric fan is shroud it or at least seal the perimeter against the rad otherwise you will get the hot air just recirculating back through the matrix which is bad for heat dissipation. I've seen a triumph on youtube with 2 fans that are fitted approx. 8" in front of the rad.how inefficient is that? :-/
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is your alternator a Nippon denso type? they need a signal wire from the battery but there are various ways to connect them up dependent on application. quick search found this,..... http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes/sensors/charging.html it might be of help.
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I've just bought some 'new' brake drums off ebay for my workhorse Vauxhall astra. cast on the drum is the allowable limit of 201.5mm or thereabouts. they look like they have been skimmed,me thinks. and they measure 200mm id. I message the seller who assures me they are new and his other suppliers confirm the measurement. .75 of a mm for wear doesn't sound a lot! i'm sure drums used to be quite thick to allow for a longer service life and the odd skim,don't manufacturers give anything away these days?at 15quid each I suppose it's cheaper to just change them than skim :-/
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a bit late now but you could have tried putting the link and stubaxle in the freezer and the bearing race in the oven. you might have got enough clearance for it to go on more easily. as for clearance none is best,ideally the race should require some light force to fit it. 1 thou is just too much o/size. Friday afternoon part? :-/
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hi, they are quite basic engines and not hard to put together,but only if one feels confident in doing so and has the tools and space.all the important machining will have to be done by a competent machine shop anyway. a professional builder will probably charge an arm and a leg to do it but it will(should)be done properly and carry some sort of warranty if something goes wrong. you can buy a short recon engine and add the head and ancilliaries yourself but for a decent performing engine it really needs a bespoke build. there is a wealth of advice and experience on this forum so don't be put off having a go yourself. i will let others give recommendation,i have no experience of any as i do my own work. :)
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wire it with a heated rear screen(timer) relay. if the car won't start or has trouble starting the buzzer wont sound until the relay trips(usually 10mins) can't remember what the connections are without seeing one but they are normally open until energized then closed until timed out,would need to reverse wire through an additional relay so the circuit is erh,..reversed so to speak. :) just had a search and this should fit the bill...... http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/adjustable-delay-timer-relay-delay-on-or-off-12v-10a.html?gclid=CMzL5-Sb7sQCFWrkwgodE7QA2Q
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tight fit or not treat them the same. ideally it should be tight and not spin in the hub,if it was to run dry there could be the danger of it fretting and scrapping the hub not to mention letting in dust and grime etc unlikely though. once the seal has formed might be worth lightly bending out the washer to make it tight. more substandard parts..... :-/
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was that steel cup washer sitting in the hub recess?it should be a press fit that may be why it feels so tight :-/
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how can routing the fuel line behind the head be better? as your car moves the air flow will go backwards in the engine bay,and when you stop the hot air will rise to..... the highest point.that being towards the bulkhead. the best option of the least heat soak.run the fuel pipe as low as possible along the chassis rail to the front,across to the other side and only come up to the carbs at the last point. if using su carbs also worth insulating the float chambers as the fuel sits in them for a while before it is used. when I had carbs I ran a return pipe to the tank (with a restrictor to make sure the carbs had enough fuel)but crucially this kept the fuel flowing and reduced the time it had to heat up,it worked quite well. :)
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no pump will totally eliminate vapour lock unless it is high pressure which is not suitable for carbs.the heat soak from the exhaust and engine is enough to boil the fuel at surprisingly low temperatures. do you have heat shields,if not try to get some and fit them.you can also help by insulating the fuel pipe in the engine bay and even loop it round the front of the radiator to be cooled by incoming air. do you have an electric fan?they are not very helpful with carbs as they only come on when required unlike the engine pulley fan and by then it is normally too late to prevent the fuel vapour locking. a few things to consider :)
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I would tighten the nut up by hand fairly tight with a spanner only. go for a gentle drive with no serious braking to introduce extra heat then check the clearance of the bearings.the seal should settle in. I personally am not convinced by there being a clearance in taper roller bearings. this may be why they are prone to early failure on triumphs(any clearance adds a percussion effect to the rollers resulting in localised impacting on the surface,i'm talking atomic scales here) the best bet is to fit them with a shimmed sleeve kit to lock them up solid with minimal clearance. if you look at modern bearing set ups they nearly all have a pre load on the taper roller bearing.even triumph stipulate this in the diffs as do all manufacturers. i'm willing to be proved wrong here :P discuss.
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^^wise words. the plumbing size can refer to the union threads and not the bore. you need at least 1/2" bore pipes and unions and if the pipes are extra long consider 5/8 bore to reduce pressure loss. but unless you are racing 1/2" should suffice and most of the oil is diverted through the pressure relief valve anyway. an engine in good condition doesn't have much leakage and excess pressure from the pump only serves to overheat and thin the oil which is counter intuitive. 50psi is fine.
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unless you are confident in tackling an OD I would advise that you hand it to someone who knows them inside out. they are quite complex and require special tools to set up properly plus you should get a guarantee or warranty for a refurb'd unit. if it is as you suspect just a bearing it shouldn't cost so much. but on the flip side they are pretty robust and most problems are oil pressure activation related. there are a few good people who will deal with it for you. mike papworth is one as well as Canley classics and a handful of other traders. I have no dealings myself but they all have good recommendations :) might be worth providing your g/box too.
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yes it needs to come off. should be able to screw in a erm' screw and pull of with some molegrips.but they can be tight as they are a taper fit and some PO might have bashed it in proper. :-/ castellated nut is behind.
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unless you have tried already you could try fitting the prop with the sliding spline at the diff end. triumph props seem to have a life of their own, as nick says. there is a current thread about vibration and countless others in the archive. I would suggest getting a second opinion on the prop balance somewhere else unless you are confident about it from the start. I had an imbalance some years back and took it back to the guy who provided it(it was a hybrid prop)who assured me it was fine. anyhoo the vibration was still there so I sent it to a place in west London(name escapes me at the mo')they said was out of balance.returned it and it was fine after that. also are you sure it is a driveline vibration? there is a distinct difference in frequency from a wheel and a prop one(this being caused by the diff ratio) but from what you say it sounds like driveline :-/
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you need to check that g/box and diff flanges are parallel with each other. an axial misalignment is ok as long as it isn't too much but flanges that are not parallel will induce unwanted secondary oscillations as the ujs will fight each other in rotation. here's a very nasal OU style video ::)..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VD1PuGdVB5U
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that's how mine is set up now^^ from the oil catch/separator tank one tube to the pi bodies vacuum take off balance tube with a 1.5mm restrictor ,and before the restrictor a 1/2" tube tees off to the intake tube from the air filter. with efi you don't really want large bore tubes under constant vacuum from the crankcase,it will cause excess oil consumption and efi is very sensitive to mixture ratios if set to the optimum. a varying vacuum will upset the mixture level as it will not be constant like when the engine is under maximum load compared to light cruise. it sounds like you are still getting crankcase pressure.i would suggest converting the breather system to a 5/8 diam pipe.don't forget the longer the pipe is the more restrictive it will be for the engine to 'push' the vapours out. could be interesting to tap a low pressure air gauge into the rocker cover to see what's going on. i'v seen some drag race engines using 1" breathers 1 on each cover of a v8 ::)
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heres one for starters....... http://www.softbitsshop.co.uk/stainless-steel-press-studs-58-c.asp I prefer the black ones on a hood myself though. :)
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I agree with that^^ a servo in itself does not add or detract from the efficiency of the 'braking system' it just merely requires the driver to apply less force to the pedal for the car to stop. where do you draw the line?...as long as the vehicle has retardation on the rollers within limits of those listed on the chart(which should be available to study in the MOT testing area)it should pass ok otherwise all braking modifications from standard should be outlawed,ie fitting non standard discs and calipers etc. i'm sure the 'removal of the servo' is something that applies to more modern vehicles in this instance :-/
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the bowls have to be fixed to the bonnet by screws or riveted on.the adjusters are then part of the bowl so should work as intended. the cowling then bolts on to finish but has no part in retaining the lights or bowls. http://www.pakwheels.com/forums/d-i-y-projects/37889-restoration-story-my-spitfire-convertible-198 found this on the net which may help. :)
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how thick is the material on the wheel hubs? you could have a small amount machined off to move the wheel inwards slightly altering the et spacing. watch for clearance around the radius arm area and shocks, etc
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I used a cheapish one temporarily while my car was outside the garage.in the end I took it off as it was wet underneath after raining and meant the car was sitting there soaking wet whereas without one it would dry off. I think any cover will trap moisture regardless ,not so bad if you use the car regularly but not good if you have rust on it already and it is not being used. I would consider making a timber frame with plastic roofing sheets to keep the rain off.it only has to cover the car so not too high and probably not much dearer than buying a good cover anyway(as long as you have the space) :)
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I used a cheapish one temporarily while my car was outside the garage.in the end I took it off as it was wet underneath after raining and meant the car was sitting there soaking wet whereas without one it would dry off. I think any cover will trap moisture regardless ,not so bad if you use the car regularly but not good if you have rust on it already and it is not being used. I would consider making a timber frame with plastic roofing sheets to keep the rain off.it only has to cover the car so not too high and probably not much dearer than buying a good cover anyway(as long as you have the space) :)
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it will be a 'suck it and see' scenario. as said already the further along the cooling circuit you go the lower temp switch you need because of the thermal gradient across the radiator. play safe to start and use a low temp switch. if the fan comes on too early get a switch with a higher rating. they don't cost that much,you have to settle with what suits the engine and not what you think it needs. :)
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oooh,the purists wont like it..... expect a horses head in your bed tomorrow morning. they do look good though :)