esxefi
-
Posts
435 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Never
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by esxefi
-
9077 wrote:My ex ran mine for 40 miles with NO oil pressure. Didn't notice the red light. re-bore, new crank. did she become your 'ex' after this event?....... :X ;)
-
any cam with high overlap will give higher NOX out the exhaust,the overlap allows more 'contamination' out the tailpipe as some unburnt fuel escapes. could try winding up the adjuster nuts while idling,if the engine dies then it could indicate no or little wear at that point on the jets/needles. what idle speed do you have?
-
tappets could cause that,if they were too tight you might get the odd backfire through the carbs and/or exhaust as the seats slowly burn away :( sounds fuel or even electrical related(something going open circuit or breaking down when hot)I had a problem with the low tension wire years ago,conductors broken inside the sheathing,it got hot and would not start,few minutes later all was well. replaced it and it was ok. try some testing of sparks or using a multimeter for breaks.
-
pipes round the back of the engine will be exposed to more heat from the block. run them to the front and even extend them to run through the area of the radiator.you could even add extra pipework to create a cooling coil arrangement in a cold air stream to help supress vapour locking.petrol is volatile and will evaporate quickly.(especially the new stuff) carb shields do work,and as you mention try to cobble up some sort of cold air feed.temperature control is a fine balance and small improvements all add up. :) mind you this time of the year is a bit unusual to be experiencing vapour lock,your problem could lie elsewhere. :-/
-
Richard_B wrote: It was designed in a more considerate age; when people did not want to blind the driver of the car following them, through an excess of bright lights. Nowadays the rear of a Volvo, Honda or BMW at night looks like a left over from Star Wars or Star Trek. oh,how the world goes around. as you say now'a days people just don't care what's behind them. I try to make a point by holding back 20-30ft in bumper to bumper traffic with my sun visor lowered.those led's although effective are just so intense. I might just screw a spot light to the roof of my daily hack and give them a blast of their own medicine in the rear view mirror >:( they definitely need a 'time out' when stationary.
-
^^that's the problem,torque reaction. I made some movement limiters which bolt up through the hole in the inner steel part so when I do my 'drag race' starts they lock up solid but in normal use they work as intended. they are the original mounts and still fine :)
-
don't forget the ARB ;)
-
this may be of some help,it gives safe amp loads and size but not standard triumph wire sizes. http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/cable/batterycable.php scroll through the menu top left to choose single cables.
-
I bought one of these,it works fine and has tacho and advance. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AccuSpark-SP8000-CHROME-Ignition-Timing-Light-Digital-rev-counter-advance-/171097250311?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item27d630da07 they do a red one but I like the bling. :B
-
I have a pair in my garage which I bought some years back and never used them. For a spit they are overkill and they are not particularly lightweight anyway compared to other after market stuff like wilwood or hi spec,but they are made by AP so would be reliable and pads should be easy to obtain.I don't think the bolt spacing is a direct fitment so would need some machining of calliper or an adapter made,and you would need to fit vented discs as that is what they normally run with. :)
-
I made some solid PB washers to fit to my bro in laws' car(now sold) a few years ago and the old ones I removed were steel backed with a copper? bearing material.they looked like OE parts and had a stamping on the rear.
-
rub a wax candle on it while it is running.
-
sounds like the front carb needle valve was stuck open. uneven running and vibration possibly from flooding and fouled plugs never to return.replace them.
-
I wasn't far off then ;)
-
I was only pondering fitting something like a busa' engine a few weeks ago cos I hadn't heard of it being done yet :P should give an entertaining ride :)
-
unless you remove the engine and g/box as one then it's the only way,but even removing them together would probably require removal of the tunnel anyway. your problem may be that the fulcrum post has worn through the clutch operating fork(it being quite thin and I think from memory made of alloy),you may find the clutch is ok but while the box is out you might as well change it. while the tunnel cover is out why not make an access plate so you can check the g/box oil level easily. :)
-
Nick_Jones wrote:This probably covers it...... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bhmSvEHLH2s Nick says it all really, fit that valve and expect backfiring not to mention a burnt out valve seat :(
-
not even from these guys?....... http://spitfiregraveyard.com/
-
don't know where you all are located but I use these, http://www.rubbertrim.co.uk/ they sell down to a metre length and are very good, north London based. :) spread the word. ask them to send you one of their printed catalogues it's easier to match trim and rubber profiles.
-
punch in 'trunnion oiling' or a similar combination in the 'search' box either here or on the tssc forum and you should find everything a triumph owner needs to know about them. it's an old chestnut and there is plenty of advice at hand,good luck :) you may need to do the search '30 days or older' as the threads go back a long way.
-
surely it depends on how you drive your car? if you give it large most of the time then as laurence says it's only a matter of time before something breaks. you have cv's so the next logical weak point is the diff(if not the g/box :-/). but considering the price of an lsd it may be cheaper in the long run to transplant a stronger diff from another car. there are a few options about but may require some creativity on your part. :)
-
7433 wrote:Well, I try to explain my setup a bit more in detail. I have unknown springs at the front but based on the wire diameter and the number of windings I assume somewhat 350 lb/inch (they are definitely not standard) I fitted a 385lb/inch leaf spring from an GT6. It is a swing spring, but I bolted the leafs together, though no swing anymore. The car has 1degree negative chamber at the front and 3 degree neg at the rear. It sits 1" lower. I added a anti roll bar wit 1/2" diameter at the rear. The car tends to oversteer now a bit, with less roll. It is quite controllable at the edge ( in dry condition, well its a convertible.... I drive only fast if it is dry) ;) It feels as if the car rolls now mostly at the front. I intended to set up the car more like a modern car (firm but not stiff springs and stiff anti roll bars) but I am not sure if this will work in spite of the weight distribution. What's the solution? stiffer front springs, a ARB from the 1500 Spit or a leaf spring from the Courier ( hopefully I will find one at Beaulieu this weekend, they are a bit rare..... especially here in germany :() By the way... thanks for the replies Alex what tyre section are you using? stiffening up the suspension will only high light the next weak link.you may need to go to a lower profile to take advantage of what you have done already. it's generally considered that the swing spring should be left alone to do what it was designed to do and tune the handling by changing the front settings.don't forget the original settings were configured using a high side wall tyre to compromise for comfort and handling. :)
-
OP if it were me I would strip both engines anyway. Seeing as you have them free standing you could construct a decent unit from either depending on the condition of each unit. what is your intention regards induction,cam choice,any head work and exhaust system and what power are you looking for?
-
treat each pad as follows, stick anti squeal pad to rear of each brake pad,and then anti squeal metal shim is fitted behind that. copperslip or equivalent ,I would apply to the retaining pins to prevent galling so that the pad moves freely during operation.make sure you do not get any on the pad surface or disc. then follow bedding in instructions. anti rattle springs may not be needed,they were not fitted as standard as far as I recall. :)
-
you need a DPDT relay to complete the set. but to be fair it does not fit the standard relay mounting configuration as used in the automobile application. ;)