esxefi
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Everything posted by esxefi
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I think the brick is added insurance incase the h/brake does go awol,look at the incline of the driveway.
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it sounds like a dummy input spline for aligning the clutch plate centrally during installation? http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RX1386B but then again found this,.... http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/tools/18G99A.htm
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I have to disagree with everyone else,it looks like there is a j type od unit fitted. if you look at the point where the exhaust pipes kink to the left and draw an imaginary line across,just above that line is two white dots,one of them is the gb drain plug(the other I don't know).so carrying on up the picture you can just make out the gb adaptor flange to o/d unit at the point where the pipes again go straight up and then above that is the casting accommodating the brake ring.
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a spun bearing refers to the push fit 'race' spinning in its housing which will cause it to fret due to friction and possibly scrap it and the item it is fitted to. but generally if the race is not a good push fit then the item is probably worn anyway if not due to undersize machining of the race in manufacture.
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at idle the engine isn't really producing that much heat so even a cheapish fan if blowing at a fair speed should keep temps down,don't forget the original fan is engine driven so is running at its slowest when needed most. I would maybe look at the rad first,they are only deemed to be marginal on performance when in good condition. Renault 5 turbo has a slim fan blade but you would have to accommodate the motor somewhow. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4001....._id%253D951779092524
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the stat needs to be fitted with the spring at the bottom(unless you have removed the jiggle pin for some reason which needs to be replaced with the plastic bulb below the stat flange).I don't think you can fit a stat upside down anyway,it should prevent the housing seating properly. sounds more like the sender is suspect.if you have a multimeter you can measure the resistance as it heats up in a pan of boiling water.but you need to know the correct ohms range from ambient to running temperature,typically 20 to 82 deg.c which I don't off hand.but they don't cost much to replace anyway. also the operating range of the standard gauge may not be as much as it looks by the needles' position compared to actual temperatures of the engine coolant.
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you need to ADD shims to the rear wishbone bracket to increase caster.
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if you add more shims to the rear bracket than the front it angles the trunnion/vertical link forwards.
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you can adjust the castor by adding or removing shims from behind the fulcrum brackets on the bottom wishbone,although you cant add too many as it will stress the trunnion but it isn't a problem with the trunnionless set up because of the ball joint replacing the trunnion so you could add lots of castor if you wanted.
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no,if you have the inhibitor switches which are standard then the o/d will switch out automatically for the very reason of driveline protection. if you have a j type they can take a fair bit of abuse anyway,mine had some punishment on the drag strip and it was the normal clutch that went first the o/d was fine. you could just look at the switch to see if it is in or out.
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sounds like the bush dimensions aren't correct to me. polyurethane is much more durable than rubber so it doesn't need to be such a tight fit as it will resist impacting forces and resist distortion better.you can still fit the bush if you have cut it but it may not last quite as long as a solid bush.
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if its an old nsk or skf or hoffman it will be fine and probably better quality than todays offerings. they are filled with grease so should last ages in storage,just give it a twist to make sure it turns cleanly with no tight spots or 'bumps'.
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I like the picture that shows an example of what you COULD fit in the boot(think)
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I heard paul mccartney has them at the mo doing some bushes on his allegro... I've got me coat ....
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and,before you fit the new one,clean and degrease the threads then fit the plug with some thread lock.it will help seal and will not need to be over tightened making future removal a lot less hassle.
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I have to ask, are you doing this conversion to save money on running costs?or to be more friendly to the planet?
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why would you want to replace the sound of a straight six with,..erm.............silence?
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you need a bit of leaway in the fuse rating as some components may cause a spike when activated which could lead to fuses blowing unnecessarily. also I don't think that ignition circuits are normally fused,but that may have changed in todays current thinking.
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sounds like fitting the stat has highlighted the weaknesses in the system as having no stat would mean the temperature never really got high enough to cause trouble.probably the reason it was left out by the PO. you may get away with re torqueing the head nuts to reseal the head gasket. the heater hoses may need bleeding,carefully loosen the hose clips at the highest point as the engine heats up and the pressure should push the air out(it might pay to undo the clips before starting and make sure the hose hasn't stuck onto the pipes as it could suddenly blow under pressure),then stop the engine recheck water level when it has cooled enough to prevent it boiling and repeat if it still isn't getting warm. also check the heater valve isn't full of crud they aren't the best designed valve and can clog easily.
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for the car to under steer surely it means that the tyre is loosing grip or running at its limits,uprating one component only will transfer the load to the next component in the chain that being the tyre. the car will roll a lot more when cornering without an arb fitted and it may 'feel' to be cornering better but with a standard profile tyre energy is lost in tyre deflection and slip angle.
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I don't know what shape the saloon bar is but I used one of these for my spitsix,.... http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=7196 can cut to length to tailor fit.
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can't see that that particular set up is as efficient as it could be. the large bore feed from the engine block goes to the filter/accumulator block then to the distribution manifold at the top rear of the engine and then the oil has to go through the small bore tube all the way back to the front bearing feed from what I can make out
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I can totally recommend these people if they are still going..... http://www.qimtek.co.uk/profile/nylospray_ltd-109SLX72466.html it's like powder coating but they use powdered nylon which is very durable. I had my front suspension done some 20 years back and it still looks like new no chips or scratches.also the springs were done but I changed them for stiffer ones after a while but they never cracked or chipped while I had them fitted. they did my complete roll cage for around 75 pounds from memory.(but it was 12 years ago so prob more than that to do it now) buying paint alone would probably have cost double that to do it properly and needing somewhere to spray it. they do different colours too.
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one advantage with coilovers is that it is easy to change the spring rate to fine tune the handling.
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the diff casings are iron so the swarf will be small particles unlike steel where you would get helixes, is that right? when drilled and should be less damaging to the diff if they were to remain inside. could repeatedly flush it out with very thin oil to maximise swarf removal through a filter(ladies tights are good for this,although I couldn't comment on what denier you would need )