esxefi
-
Posts
435 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Never
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by esxefi
-
Marcus, it's a great idea and I was pondering it over. my thinking was 2 lines to the tank, 1) a large bore pipe as you have to quick empty the tank into the oil system with the solenoid valve negative wired to the oil pressure switch so it auto empties when the ign is activated,when pressure is high enough to extinguish the oil light the solenoid should shut off(you could fit a higher rated switch to get more pre oiling if required)this would also switch in if the light was to come on during times of low pressure like oil surge from hard cornering etc. 2) a small bore pipe say 1/8 - 3/16" fed from the main gallery back to the tank with a one way check valve to auto refill the tank. as you have only just started the car and are driving at low speeds the pressure bleed off shouldn't be a problem. or you could incorporate a timer delay relay so the solenoid will reactivate after a set time. what do you think? sorry if you have mentioned some of this already.
-
doesn't the return go into the union below the oil pressure switch?
-
most oil coolers are after the oil pump so run at system pressure,even with a thermostat fitted the entire system is under the same pressure but the oil takes the path of least resistance until the stat closes(reverse operation to that of the coolant system) the bypass so diverting oil to the radiator. I expect you could have a system running at atmospheric but it would be a total loss system whereby it would bleed oil from the main gallery through the cooler and back into the sump,but why would you want to do that? I can't really see any benefits of it only downsides,if that is what you meant
-
a new starter you say,.... does it have the same type of pinion gear as the old one?
-
if you have the original bendix type starter check that the earth connection is good and tight. also the motor brushes can wear reducing performance and the bendix can clog up with dust preventing it engaging. the shims are only thin so I would be surprised if not having one would mean engagement or not.
-
I wouldn't worry too much,as long as they are pretty central they should be ok. from an engineering pov it is best to have the stem contact point and the push rod contact point as straight as you can because the rockers operating axis not perpendicular to the rocker shaft(if you know what I mean?)so they try to 'rock' longitudinally when operating but you don't want the top of the stem sticking out the side as it would trash both the rocker and valve stem. you could lapp them on some emery cloth or wet and dry to align them better if you think they need it but it will require great skill to keep them square to the shaft,probably better to have them machined in a jig if you are going the whole hog but as I said I wouldn't bother.
-
yeah, but what if its raining I have a switch which provides an earth to the relay to override the sensor if required and I have used it a few times as the gauge climbs higher my nerve runs out and I flick it in. i'm sure the fan would kick in anyway as it takes time for the sensor to reach operating temperature being near the return hose but on a hot day you do wonder(my wife is terrible for this she always tells me it is going to overheat).
-
ha. no they would still work as the car AND the headlight are both travelling at the same speed to start with you try it and tell me i'm wrong
-
I like the 'steam punk' style blow off valve
-
^^ I thought that the max wattage allowed was for cars after a certain year as the bulbs have to be 'e' marked. I think the modern lights,HID and others that are used these days seem way brighter than the older stuff but they use LESS power. our fiat 500 has dip and main on at the same time when you flip to main beam.
-
what about fitting bigger brakes(if wheel size allows) and doing away with the servo?
-
have you tried a water temp sender in the bottom hose between rad and pump? if the water temp coming from the rad is the same or just below that which is going into the rad it is just not efficient enough at shedding heat. also I think fitting an electric pump before the OE pump is a bad idea as it runs a lot slower than the OE pump does at high revs,the benefit of the electric one is that it is only on when needed whereas the OE pump is shifting a lot of coolant at high revs regardless if the engine needs it or not,but they say the electric one doesn't need a stat fitted. I have one and have had no cooling issues at all apart from recently where I left my rad(second hand from a sierra cosworth) standing dry for a few years and I think the capillary tubes have furred up somewhat,i went for a blast on the a12 and when I slowed down the old temp gauge was almost off the scale.only slow driving would bring it back down and the fan came on for ages. I tested the rad with the garden hose and it was flowing very little and pressurising. I am now waiting for an all ally one from radtec,hopefully should restore the cooling back to normal.
-
it could be a tired spring,relaxed more one side than the other due to old age or it could be due to settled bushes in the diff mountings.the energy that goes into the leafspring has to transfer somewhere and that is through the diff casing and its mountings ie rubber bushes. a small deformation of the bushes will exaggerate any unevenness of the spring eyes side to side. also poor lubrication of the leaves can cause problems and ridges can form where the leaves rub against each other affecting the whole efficiency of the spring.
-
I did have,.... now using a w58. I think from memory I cut the sprint stick off above the rubber damper and welded a steel sleeve on the stub with the cut gt6 stick welded in it also? I may be able to help with the prop i'm sure I have my original shortened one in the garage somewhere.
-
mark, side spacers should be used with sphericals to prevent movement and vibration of the ball,they are available from various tuning co's(got mine from rally design),you do not really want a tight fitting bolt as it could/will corrode onto it making dismantling difficult. as sparky says,...i'll bet you will be changing back to bushes of some sort in a year especially if you use the car frequently,the ride can become tiring as a lot more bump loading will transmit into the chassis.
-
the drop will not be linear due to the changing arc of the driveshafts,the drop to plate thickness ratio will be less effective the thicker the plate gets,if you see what I mean? if you could fit a theoretical spacer of 1ft thick in theory it will not be as effective as a 1inch one.ie, the car would not drop 1ft but with the 1inch plate it would be getting close to an inch drop,...I think! it's all about the trigonometry from what I remember at skool
-
well I would check the simplest first like the coolant temp and timing as above,rad could be silted up a bit. only way to prevent vapour lock is insulating pipes and carbs from excess heat of the engine and/or rerouting pipes.(there are a few threads on the forum about it,type it into the search facility,should find something) rust in the tank. tank out is best but, good flush,and blow through pipes or pump some petrol down them to ensure they are clear.
-
could be fuel vapour locking considering the temperature today. that will cause it to run very lean and give pinking,but you say it hasn't really been used for 20 years so it could be something else and just coincidental with the weather. rust in the tank is normally a good culprit blocking the fuel pipe.
-
if you like it and enjoy driving it don't worry about its value. a lot of us have spent far too much than is decent on triumphs(naughty) imo I don't think you will loose money in the long run,I see values steadily increasing although talk is of a bubble forming in the higher end classic car market.(perhaps rightly so )
-
idling speed won't really reveal full leakage as engine is not under load,also a hole the size of the oil filler is quite large to determine the amount of gas escaping. place a piece of thick plastic or something else rigid over the filler hole with a 10mm hole in it to get a better idea of flow. ideally you want next to nothing coming out but a slowish steady stream is ok,you may have steam escaping as well if the engine is cold which could make it look more than it is. breather hose into the airbox is ok but keep an eye for oil escaping down the hose and contaminating/blocking up the air filters if you have the paper type,some sort of baffling or screen to help the oil drop out is a good idea.
-
he obviously didn't have a sense of smell,.....or did it always run rich :)
-
the square one will require a regulator otherwise it will be noisy,even the lowest pressure one will overcome the floatchamber needle valves allowing the pump plunger to whack away on its seat.
-
892 wrote: I hope you can find the vapour lock problem so that you can ditch the mechanical fan that is masking your problem. Cheers, Iain. well,going down to brass tacks. as has been said on this forum before,the real culprit is modern fuel. a mechanical fan is perfectly fine when used as the design engineers intended with older leaded fuels as it keeps air flow going around the engine bay enough to help prevent vapour locking,and you would think it should be as good for todays fuel. as soon as you fit an electric fan you allow the heat to build to the point of vapour locking very quickly. this is mainly down to the non crossflow design of the cylinder head allowing copious amounts of heat to radiate to the carbs and manifold or whatever you have fitted.(even efi is not excluded as I have experienced in high heat). heat shields will delay it but without adequate air circulation it will occur eventually in high ambient temperatures. OP how about fitting a small ducted fan like they use on RC aircraft,they shift an incredible amount of air for their size and it only needs to be mounted pointing at the carbs/exhaust manifold to shift the hot air out(thought about this myself) :)
-
the cams have none or a number of rings on the front journal to identify what type it is,although if it has had a regrind they won't help much. if it is a non standard triumph cam you can work out the timing figures with a dial test indicator and a degree wheel on the front pulley. set the cam followers to solid ie,no gap.then measure with the dti at what degrees the valves open and close.this should give you a duration and opening/closing timing. if you get those someone may be able to identify it :) 10thou may not be the correct gap for the cam which will make it more difficult to set up. lumpy cams and carbs aren't the best of friends.
-
^^ you're not a fan then... ;D