ghr630 Posted November 10, 2007 Share Posted November 10, 2007 Next week I hope to start converting my GT6 to CV jointed Rotoflex. I am still wondering which spring to use. Currently the car is Swing Spring with a lowering block (which performed quite well actually) and I wondering if I could keep that with the wishbones and uprights from the Rotoflex. Or would that cause geometry problems?Should I revert to fixed spring, what is the best for street and competition ? GT6 MK2? Has anybody got any experience? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieB Posted November 10, 2007 Share Posted November 10, 2007 No direct experience but since the swing spring was designed to overcome the limitations of the swing axle suspension (jacking/tuck under) you don't need it anymore. Fit a fixed spring & get some rear roll stiffness back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted November 10, 2007 Share Posted November 10, 2007 the car the c.v. joints came off had a fixed sah decambered spring with a 1/2" lowering block, it provided an awesome rear setup on the spit.still got the spring if you want it, lookin to give it away to a good home.Wishbones and uprights are radically different for the roto setup, if you changed the wishbones you would need to radically change the shafts as they would be to short it think but also there isnt much space to modify the swing spring uprights to take the mgf bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted November 10, 2007 Share Posted November 10, 2007 If anybody wants a brand new GT6 rear spring for a rotoflex I have one for sale... (bought by mistake - I need a Spitfire one...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghr630 Posted November 11, 2007 Author Share Posted November 11, 2007 Thanks guys, I think I have my plan now. Matt, I never intended to change the Hybrid CV set up at all. I just idley thought about combining it with a Swing Spring. Don't know why really since it is a compromise in it's own right. I have found a fixed spring at the back of my garage that will do initially I think. I shall strip it and reassemble with graphite grease. That set up should restore roll stiffness then I can tune from there. I'll see if I can't get all up to date and post some piccies of progress! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 Got really good handling in the corners on my spit with the original fixed spring, only hassle was bum wiggling in potholes and waiting for it to tuck, went swing spring which is ok for drivin but imo fixed spring is much better for handlin because even with a thicker roll bar, harder front springs and shocks you can feel that the swinger just wants to roll. If roto cures bum wigglin and tuckin I'd have a fixed spring onit before you could say woopsadaisy.;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 Mike Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 Does anybody have any more information on this set up from Prirace in the states.Looks interesting but the picture does not give too much away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5 Chris Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 GT6_Mike wrote:Does anybody have any more information on this set up from Prirace in the states.Looks interesting but the picture does not give too much away.TLD uses similar set-up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 Very interesting that - wonder why he hasn't gone the whole hog and fabricated some proper lower wishbones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 The Prirace one looks like pure bling to me. All it is is swing axle rear end with the spring replaced by that flash alloy arm to act as the upper link. The spring action is then provided by the coil over.No real geometry effects, but some benefit on improved schoice of spring rates and ride height adjustability. Questionable practice using the original damper mount IMO. Is it really strong enough? Maybe it is strengthened - can't really tell.The TLD one is more like it and looks to be standard roto geometry (but note choice of inner pivot points for wishbone) with a nice beefy driveshaft and with the spring reduced to a single leaf for location only and the coil-over again used for rate/height adjustability. I also would have thought a nice lightwiight adjustable lower wishbone would be a worthwhile addition.Roto does mostly cure bum-wriggle and tuck.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 So are we guessing TLDs is really just a single leaf of a standard spring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 Interesting drive shafts on the tld one what are they? look way chunkier than std roto ones, pri ones look like they are made out a broom handle wonder how long that'd last. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5 Chris Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 " I have sent pics of the simple drive shaft conversion I have designed & usemy self. It make the car handle like it has a beam axle with none of theiffy handling characteristics of the Rotoflex. Also the optimum camber setup is 1/2 degree negative not the 4 degrees of the rotoflex. It make thetyres work to their optimum & much better tyre wear characteristics. You cancertainly reduce weight by using the Canley Lower wishbone & Uprights. NoteI use only a thicker single leaf spring with the sping load controlled bythe coil over springs. The Shockers are specials with adjustable bounce &rebound. By mounting off the back of the chassis extension bracket theshocker sits at the correct angle. The CV joint will never be as durable asthe sliding driveshaft. We use this type for the TR6's & after 5-6 years noone has worn any out yet but others tell me the CV type shfts when drivenhard last only a year to eighteen months. The UJ's we use are the same asthe current Aston Martin propshaft they cost around £35 each but they arethe only ones guaranteed for thee years or 60,000 mile on the new Astons.The pair of drive shafts cost about £480.00 I use the new Canley out putfranges. "From TLD.Note...as far as i know, since inquiring recently, Canley don't supply alloy lower wishbones anymore:( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 I would think CVs should be up to the task - every modern fwd car with hundreds and hundreds of horsepower has them - and they do more work due to steering too? Plus with sliding you're prone to getting twitches?Methinks he is a bit sour... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 cjm wrote:"From TLD.Note...as far as i know, since inquiring recently, Canley don't supply alloy lower wishbones anymore:(Err, got a new set on my bench. The old CNC'd from solid type just got mega expensive as the waste generated from that huge billet when it went into the machine had to be seen to be believed. We pulled the plug on those about 2 years ago. Have just paid for the pattern equipment to cast and machine, which is far less wasteful (and hence far cheaper). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 jcarruthers wrote:Methinks he is a bit sour...I'm not sure who's CV conversion he is thinking of? Not Josh's as far as I have heard. Certainly not ours, we have only been retailing them for 6 months. If the ones he has heard about have worn out in 18 months then there must be a third type out there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 Yes I had forgotten that (I had my small chassis Triumph head on!). Didn't it all kick off originally with the SNG Barrat/GKN Driveline Stag CV kit from the early 90's? A shorter version of that now appears on TR's but I'm not sure it's still GKN manufacturing it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piero franchi Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 Err, got a new set on my benchAre the new ones on your website Canley classics???????If not, can you post us some photos and prices.Ta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 Bit late for george he bought my cv's. by the way the parcel is ready to be collected tomorrow, hope the postman has had his weetabix this is one hefty parcel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 post removed on request of author Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 jcarruthers wrote:There must be a decent market for some lower wishbones considering Canley are now selling a kit and a fair few people have done the Bowler CV conversion...Yes, but no but.If it were that simple we would have copied the factory racing tubular reversed bottom wishbone set up years ago and started flogging that. Trouble is it involves fabrication, and welding to the chassis (wishbone mounting brackets), and that's a problem. I know a good proportion of CT people would be up for that, but the rest of the market wouldn't be. If it's not a fairly simple bolt on affair given a modicum of skill. and a basic tool kit, then it wouldn't sell.Pete Clark (ex factory racing mechanic) has continued to knock up (and fit) these kits to various cars over the years. Indeed last time he did some we got involved and organised a short run of the special trunnion pins for them. James I believe this is your picture of one of Petes set up's under Richard Lloyds racing Spit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 Piero_franchi wrote:Err, got a new set on my benchAre the new ones on your website Canley classics???????If not, can you post us some photos and prices.TaNo, only got the first pair on Friday. Need to try them on a car first under duress. A car that's actually going to be used, and abused, Tim? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 Dave - that is my photo - taken at the Goodwood Revival in 2005 I think.What I meant was a copy of the standard rotoflex lower wishbone - but straight - and preferably adjustable - and not weighing 6 tons...I know you do your light weight "bent" alloy ones - but with the CV conversions you don't need bent... a simple tubular and adjustable one would be stronger and cheaper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99176 Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 Isn't the theory that CVs wear uniformly when used in a steering system whereasat the rear they wear because the wear is only in a single plane ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 I was told (I can't remember who) that the Volvo CVs we use for the "Bowler" conversion never wear out on the original application because they are from a rear wheel drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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