Neil MAC Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Can any one help?I am replacing the rear spring on my Mk3 Spitfire from a 7leaf to a swing spring.I have removed the old spring taking out the six studs however there is a seventh stud in the middle that runs through the old spring that will not come out of the diff. Its turning but won`t come out and it does not appear to have any thread on it so I don`t know what is holding it to the diff.Any suggestions as I can`t fit the new spring with it there.Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensH Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 If original mk 3: Its part of the spring only, but (from memory) there is a recess in the diff (for the nut on the underside!), so you have to lift the spring a little before you can push it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Fawlty Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Yes its part of the springSits in a recessBazhttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wMmgSVM8KVU/Tj9XH_XUTaI/AAAAAAAAAKE/9JNMvN74Za8/s1600/CIMG0139.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil MAC Posted March 21, 2015 Author Share Posted March 21, 2015 Thanks guys it was part of the original spring which eventually came out with a bit of persuasion,Just didn`t want to force it until I knew what it was.However on the swing spring should the lug under the1 spring sit completely in the hole on the top of the diff?At the moment it is sitting proud.Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Fawlty Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Would have thought it should mount as before into the socket in centre of diffFound this which gives some guidancehttp://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1246998324/s-11/highlight-anti-roll+bar/Baz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Fawlty Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Here is a pic of the correct assemblyBazhttp://groudasfamily.com/pete/petesblog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/DSCF1544.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil MAC Posted March 21, 2015 Author Share Posted March 21, 2015 Baz,Thanks for the links really helpful.Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piero franchi Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 In case you have not realised, you MUST Change the front anti roll bar to the latter larger type for the suspention to work as it was ment to.the swing spring allows a lot of chassis roll.The stiffer anti roll bar is needed to bring things back into check Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil MAC Posted March 22, 2015 Author Share Posted March 22, 2015 Yes did realise that will be the next job. Got them both as a kit from Paddocks to do the conversion from a saggy fixed spring.Thanks for the advice.Neil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil MAC Posted March 22, 2015 Author Share Posted March 22, 2015 New spring and roll bar fitted however I now have a slight positive camber on the rear wheels.I`m going to run the car to see if it settles, which I hope it does.However how much do the lowering blocks alter the camber if I find I need to fit one? ThanksNeil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevegt6 Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Different motor, but, I fitted new spring on late mk3 GT6 and a 1/2 inch spacer/lowering block - when first hit the tarmac it had some pos camber to the rear, so loaded it up with 4x 20kg cement bags for about 6 months. I am now at 40kg 1 year and 2500 miles later and it still has not settled that much. The wheels are pretty much dead vertical with the 40kg in it.Certainly handles better with the weight in it.I am looking to fit some driveshaft spacers - maybe starting at 6mm / 1/4 inch to get me some neg camber.In direct answer to your question: I dont think my 1/2 inch spacer made much difference in terms of camber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 1/2" should make it go negative by just under 2 degreesC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Fawlty Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 NeilGet two average people to sit in the car and look at it from behindThe original triumph specs said something about final torques ofsuspension with 150lb in each seatI think that's what the apprentices were forBaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil MAC Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 Thanks,due to work I`ve not had a chance to try it with people in, hopefully tomorrow I will be able to take it for a run and see if a bit of a load has the desired effect.I will also try to work out the degree of camber to see what you think.I will post with the results.Cheers Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 and essential you check the rear toe in , with 150lb on each seat or you get bump steer on pot holes two planks and a tape measure across the car Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil MAC Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 Cheers Pete I will give that a check when I can.I took the car out with a passenger and some extra ballast in the boot (rockery now looking less rocky) the back seems to have settled as a result. I think it needs a few more miles. Car definitely feels better but I haven`t pushed it yet.I am thinking for the meantime I will run it and see how it goes before putting a spacer in. Hoping to take it to Europe in July so it will be loaded up then anyway (spare parts). Like Stevegt6 the wheels are virtually vertical with the weight in the boot, with two passengers in as well it has a slight negative camber. This is just by sight looking at the car from the back. Not an exact science, but on the principal that if it at least looks right then I should be on the right track. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevegt6 Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Since my post earlier, mine has settled quite a bit - still got the 40kg in but has quite what I would call 'normal' neg camber for these... Will have to check all the nuts n bolts again I think...Neil, Seems that it takes quite a few miles to bed-in a new spring...So, what do you Race boys do to achieve / alter the rear camber...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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