Nick Jones Posted November 18, 2007 Share Posted November 18, 2007 Yes, I know it's been discussed before, but.....First I got some 12mm studs from a rover 400 - the shanks are too skinny and don't grip in the hub.Second I investigated the MGF/rover 100 ones from some hubs I have lying about. These seem good except that on the front, the longer unthreaded shank of the bolt means that the threads bottom out just before the wheel is clamped tight. On the rear the brake drum thickness means that they will just about go (but would prefer more comfort factor).So, I've had a rummage on the web. NOT paying jiggys prices. Mr Wolfs are pretty dear too but at least you get nice new wheelnuts with them. Rally design and Merlin etc do them but the questions of shank diameter and length come into play.... and I'm getting bored with this game - want to fit and forget!How do the rest of you get around this?ThanksNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted November 18, 2007 Share Posted November 18, 2007 i got some off ebay. for an old escort mk1 and/or mk2 i think, didnt cost that much either, there a era couple of sellers who do them, new of course.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted November 18, 2007 Share Posted November 18, 2007 i recall getting mine from here:http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WHEEL-STUDS-M12-X-47-MM-LENGTH-FIT-ALL-FORDS-NEW-SET_W0QQitemZ260183012497QQihZ016QQcategoryZ27377QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemthere are these too,i suspect they are the same but more expensive especially on posthttp://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ford-10mm-extended-wheel-studs-escort-focus-set-of16_W0QQitemZ300163254273QQihZ020QQcategoryZ21654QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 18, 2007 Author Share Posted November 18, 2007 Thanks Josh - good links! Still a bit worried about the unthreaded length - will mail and ask them.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 Mike Posted November 18, 2007 Share Posted November 18, 2007 Nick, I used Freelander studs (previous model), dont have any issues with those using Rover / MGF cone type nuts. If your desperate for info I will take the front wheel off and measure the amount of unthreaded shank sticking out the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 18, 2007 Author Share Posted November 18, 2007 Thanks Mike, theres a friendly LR dealer next door to work so I'll take some to compareNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royboy66 Posted November 18, 2007 Share Posted November 18, 2007 Nick, I upgraded from 3/8 to 7/16 studs and nuts, from these guys http://www.speedshack.co.uk/very friendly and helpfull too!Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 18, 2007 Author Share Posted November 18, 2007 Thanks Roy, thank you all for your helpful suggestions!Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordleonusa Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 OK, so what length of stud is the longest that you can fit onto the Vitesse Mk.2 rear hub WITHOUT removing the hub?and, how long are the standard studs?I see that these 7/16th inch, or M12 x 1.5mm studs are sold in various lengths by various people, ie: 47mm, 55mm, 63mm...Jon Wolfe says you HAVE to remove the hubs if you fit HIS studs, but he doesn't say how long the ones he supplies are!RegardsLéon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 post removed on request of author Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 21, 2007 Author Share Posted November 21, 2007 GT6_Mike wrote:Nick, I used Freelander studs (previous model), dont have any issues with those using Rover / MGF cone type nuts. If your desperate for info I will take the front wheel off and measure the amount of unthreaded shank sticking out the hub.Freelander studs are the ones... Thanks Mike!Oh, and it looks like I'll be drilling my backplates - was hoping to avoid that.CheersNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 Mike Posted November 21, 2007 Share Posted November 21, 2007 Nice one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 25, 2007 Author Share Posted November 25, 2007 New fronts studs now fitted - just the job! No fettling needed at all.For those wondering what I was fussing about, see pic below:Left - original 3/8 stud - weedy isn't it!centre - LR Freelander stud, the perfect replacement (and only 1.40 ea)Right - MGF/Metro/Generic M12 stud. Unthreaded section too long.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 10, 2007 Author Share Posted December 10, 2007 mattius wrote:Nick you dont happen to have the part number do you for the landrover ones?is it CLP9037L?Yes, that's the onesNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 11, 2007 Author Share Posted December 11, 2007 mattius wrote:will my mini lights clear them? im worried as the nuts are quite a tight fit with the wrench at the moment.I dunno - can't see your minilites from here :POk on my 100+ cross-spokes (the 12mm nuts are alot deeper than the old ones) but would be very close thing on my old Cosmics. Are the holes big enough for the studs - some of my Cosmics (a mixed bunch!) have holes only large enough for the original 3/8" studs?Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 Best be quiet in case the owner hears you shh!! ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hypoid53 Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 This is proving to be a most informative thread!I am looking to uprate my MK3 Rotoflex hubs as I have some MWS 5 x 13 "minlight" wheels and the existing studs are looking a bit marginal. I know that the MWS supplied wheel nuts are pathetic so I require clarification in the type of replacement wheel nut that will fit the 12mm Freelander studs without bottoming and have a taper to centralise into the wheel. I attach a photo of the freelander alloy wheel nut which appears to flat bottomed and therefore unsuitable for self-centralising. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 Mike Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 HypoidFreelander is a bull nose type (for want of a better description), the Rover cars (MGF, 25 45 etc) used a taper type with a floating collar - sounds like that's what you might need.I'm sure someone will post a photo this afternoon, if not I'll sort one out later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hypoid53 Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 Following on from this thread I have been along to my Landrover dealer and bought 16 Freelander studs.This photo is some of them fitted to my rotoflex rear hub with the original 3/8 studs for comparison. Pretty impressive eh? They really are a doddle to fit. I also purchased a standard landy 12mm wheelnut to 'pull them down' and very succesful it was too. Now all I need is some good quality 12mm chrome dome wheel nuts with a 60 degree taper to finish the job.Positive proof how informative these threads are. Thanks to all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phil866 Posted January 8, 2008 Share Posted January 8, 2008 I bought 18 of these http://rallynuts.com/motorsport/Wheel_Studs_1942/Wheel_Studs_Long_Ford_Metric_787.aspand they are excellent with my Minilites! The thing about wheel nuts is that only the first 5 threads do the work (apparently) but these are long enough to almost bottom in the chrome nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6Steve Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 I've always assumed it to be threadlock but upon reflection I can see the value of a dry lubricant on that area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 Mike Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 Looks like some form of patchlock / threadlock, not sure why its on the splines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 Mike Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 Agree with Steve, could be a type of lubricant used during initial assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 The dressing on the new stud splines doesn't matter, cos the splines don't fit!Have a look at Nick's comparitive photo of three studs - the splines are finer on the original Triumph one. So you're going to have to bash or draw the new ones in with a large nut and a spacer. The latter is recommended as it is more likely to setup the studs vertically, not guaranteed with a knocking tool.This weakens the grip of the splines, and you will end up with loose studs if you have the wheels on/off often. Put a blob of weld on the back to secure the stud head to the hub, to prevent them turning while the nut is loose. Once it is tight, the stud will grip anyway, so don't roast them.John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triumphstuff Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 Heres a Q for you.... why are you all using metric studs when there is a imperial 7/16 UNF stud in the triumph range that fits... T2000, stag, TR2-6 all these cars have the bigger studs and are not known for breaking... J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.jpeg.b15b81ef10abeea1c3039ae03c4a9f3a.jpeg)
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.