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Correct wheel nuts (lug nuts to the yanks)


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If they are tapered make sure you get the right taper otherwise you could lose a wheel
Or even elongate the hole.
There are two standard? taper, 45d and 60d.

As John says some alloy's use sleeved nuts, it wil be obviouse if you need sleeved nuts, usualy no taper on the holes.
Mind you I have seen sleeved nuts with tapered washers.

Best advice is contact a good wheel shop, or these days you might be able contact the wheel maker on line as they will tell you 'sleeve or no sleeve'.

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I would have thought the difference between a tapered (coned) seat and a Barrel or sleeved nut was a bit obvious.
Both are used for these types of wheel and may or may not require the studs removing for longer/shorted ones.

Wheels with the barrel/sleeve nut can get away with the short stud. The tapered nut wheel has some variables to contend with.

Contact MWS at Coventry - they do all variations.


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Some alloy wheels used sleeve nuts (like the revolutions I know John has on his car) but the minilite replicas I had and the newer revolutions I now have both use taper seat nuts.

The taper is however different from the standard spitfire wheelnuts used with the original steel wheels.

Are you really confused now?  :)

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