Alex Posted November 24, 2013 Share Posted November 24, 2013 I'm currently in the process of putting together an engine for my spitfire.....Ok so some people are already aware of this as I keep pestering them :BI've assembled the reground crank, fitted the pistons and rings I've spent an age cleaning everything!The next job is to fit the oil pump,so I believe the ideal is pack it with Vaseline?Big question.....how much?I need to fit the strainer/ pickup but should I use thread lock to stop it coming off or just heave the nut nice n tight?It'll be a while till it goes in as I need to pull the current engine out so I can use the head and cam.ThanksAlex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 24, 2013 Share Posted November 24, 2013 Strainer - I use a bit of threadlock and then heave the nut nice and tight.Pump - I don't pack it as such, just use plenty of vaseline as assembly lube when I put it together.Also, before first start, I spin the oil pump up with an electric drill until I get pressure. Then re-fit drive gear, dizzy etc and spin over on the starter with the plugs out until I get oil pressure (pretty quick), then plugs in and fire-up..... I have been accused of paranoia.....Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted November 24, 2013 Author Share Posted November 24, 2013 Thanks Nick.....again ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted November 24, 2013 Share Posted November 24, 2013 I tried that, Nick, and it works (Rememnber anyone else you need a drill that runs in reverse!)But it took me so long thereafter to fit the dizzy, time it and so on, that I had to wonder how much oil rmeianed in the engine, and so how much it was worth.Plugs out, jump leads from the battery to the modern, turn it over without plugs in until pressure appears, replace plugs, and go for it! Don't rev the starter for too long at one go. Touch the starter cable now and then -if its too hot to touch - go and have a coffee!JOhnPS if necessary, take out the oil pressure relief valve and squirt some oil into the hole to prime the pump. J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hunt Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 I don't think it's paranoia at all Nick. Each oil and filter change (every 3,000 miles without fail) I remove plugs and turn engine over on the starter until good oil pressure registered ( ~50psi), check for leaks then replace plugs, fire up and check again for leaks. (I know there are always leaks from a TR, I mean I look for leaks from the filter!)Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanChatterton Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 I was going to suggest a different option based on Tim's idea.The faff of refitting the dizzy etc, can be overcome easily.Refit everything, then remove the pressure relief valve. If you get a good quality oil pump can, you can get a decent sort of seal between the nozzle and the block. Then keep pumping oil in. This will fill the pump and also start to pressurise the system. You probably won't get oil coming out of the rocker, but certainly the bearings.Then you can spin it on the starter and you will get immediate oil pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TedTaylor Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 tim_hunt wrote:I don't think it's paranoia at all Nick. Each oil and filter change (every 3,000 miles without fail) I remove plugs and turn engine over on the starter until good oil pressure registered ( ~50psi), check for leaks then replace plugs, fire up and check again for leaks. (I know there are always leaks from a TR, I mean I look for leaks from the filter!)TimTim I presume you will have had the engine running before draining the oil. I always run the engine for at least 10 minutes or do the change after going out for a drive to get the engine warm, the oil circulated through bearings etc., and also any residual loose sludge stirred up and into suspension in the old oil. Then drain thoroughly - leave the sump plug out and go away for ten or fifteen minutes to allow the oil to drain down through the engine and for the sump to clear.Do the oil and filter change remembering to put a little oil on the new rubber filter seat to help it bed in. Plugs out and spin the engine over until filter filled and oil pressure up, plugs back in, and fire up.If you don't have an oil pressure gauge then spin it over until the oil warning light goes out - not really up to the correct pressure but you know the filter will be filled and oil circulated.If you have run the engine before the change there will be plenty of residual oil in the bearings for the initial spin over before firing up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin M Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 Hi,I do it similar to Alan. However I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge. I remove the connection to the engine oil gallery and pump oil into it with an oil gun. It fills nicely the oil gallery and from that the crank / cam.Works fine and done within a minute.Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
69vitesse Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 Pull off coil lead, spin over engine for a bit...Push back on coil lead, start engine...Easy as that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 13, 2013 Author Share Posted December 13, 2013 Well the engine is together,it turns on the key with the plugs out.Oil light goes out! Tomorrow I need to add coolant and attempt a start :-/I'll then warm it up and give it a thorough flush...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveKent Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 Forte engine flush Alex, it appears to be way superior to all the others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 13, 2013 Author Share Posted December 13, 2013 Just going to flush the waterways Dave,then I'll run it as Mr Brake suggested for an hr or so before changing the oil.Then run it in,change oil again.Ooh I so hope I've not screwed it up lol ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Have you fitted a new cam & followers?Have you put cam lube on?Cranking over without the spark plugs can help get the pressure up before starting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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