Jonny-Jimbo Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 Won't it need cowling to direct the air, as the flow from the radiator fan will be far greater than this and may mean it's ineffective. Or will it have a pipe directed to the pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted July 1, 2016 Author Share Posted July 1, 2016 Quoted from Jonny-Jimbo Won't it need cowling to direct the air, as the flow from the radiator fan will be far greater than this and may mean it's ineffective. Or will it have a pipe directed to the pump? I've no idea whether it will work or not but i just thought it would be worth a try. The car has both mechanical and electric fans but with them running there doesn't seem to be a lot of air movement towards the back of the block. The only time vaporisation occurs is when the car is stationary which is when the electric fans will be cut in. The little fan with the pipe ducting does shift a lot of air so I'm hopeful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 Well the red one did it again in the MOT station this time, took ages for it to cool down enough to start again, so even with all my demon tweeks the problem is still there. Running out of ideas now, perhaps I should get louvres in the bonnet?RR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted July 5, 2016 Author Share Posted July 5, 2016 Quoted from RedRooster Well the red one did it again in the MOT station this time, took ages for it to cool down enough to start again, so even with all my demon tweeks the problem is still there. Running out of ideas now, perhaps I should get louvres in the bonnet?RR That's a downer Brad. I know a lot of people don't like exhaust lagging but the problem has to be under bonnet temperature so lagging might help. I have to say I am really surprised that the measures you've taken haven't worked. The sleeving we used to insulate the petrol pipe is Powersleeve from Rally Designhttp://www.rallydesign.co.uk/index.php?cPath=261_264 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 Also worth considering that hot ignition components especially the condensor (if still fitted!) and coil (helpfully mounted on the engine block) can occasionally give similar symptoms. To say nothing of dodgy rotor arms and caps......Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 Just been to look at the car in the dog house & the inlets are still quite warm, don't think it's the carbs as they have heatshields.I'm going to take a laser thermometer with me for the trip to Le Mans if it does it again I'll take some temperature readings.No condenser fitted & the coil is stood off the block, has a heatshield & wrapped in Ali foil.Tempted to mount a second coil on the valance, that would be a quick swap across if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 2nd coil now in, I love tie wraps Is there any reason the coil is mounted vertically upright, I seem to remember something back in the day about mounting them upside down so that the air was at the bottom of the canister away from the HV? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 Once had a Rover 2000 which p/o had fitted an electric pump. He'd teed a return line back to the suction side of the pump so that fuel was circulating all the time. Wonder if something similar would help you?Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 Hi Nang,I just have a red top fuel pump feeding a filter king then off to the triple carbs, so not circulating cooler fuel. Somehow I think it's not the fuel lines which are at fault.....I'm thinking more hot inlets.RR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted July 6, 2016 Share Posted July 6, 2016 Had a look about trying to fit a manifold heat shield, not a lot of room or time before LMC, so next train of thought was to duct the aux fans, after a few card board templates the air flow down each side of the engine was much improved, so made a couple out of some scrap tin plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esxefi Posted July 6, 2016 Share Posted July 6, 2016 Quoted from RedRooster 2nd coil now in, I love tie wraps Is there any reason the coil is mounted vertically upright, I seem to remember something back in the day about mounting them upside down so that the air was at the bottom of the canister away from the HV? best is to mount them upright,they contain oil for insulation and cooling and it is not unknown for a coil to leak this oil out if mounted flat or inverted,the coil overheats and then fails.epoxy filled ones are mountable any way up though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazycrane Posted July 6, 2016 Share Posted July 6, 2016 Hi.I have been reading this thread with interest. I had similar problems on a Bond GT4S running a spit 1500 with tubular manifold and went through the whole exhaust wrap, improved carb heat shields, foil wrapping fuel lines. These all helped reduce the problem, but it was still running into problems in slow traffic and idling. The thing i did that made the biggest difference was drilling 50mm holes in the top of the wings behind the wheel arches. This stopped the problem on all, but 30 degree plus days. You could see a heat haze coming from these holes. There was an underlying problem which was causing the hot running of the car and hence high under bonnet temperatures, which was that the car had been fitted with a 92 degree thermostat and was also running lean at high revs. I had check the thermostat worked in hot water but not with a thermometer..The holes allowed the hot air out from under the bonnet, there was improved air flow and a lower under bonnet temp. All the ail going into the front of a GT6 is pre heated by the radiator, but is cooler that the temperature of the block so if you can increase this air flow then the under bonnet temps will reduce. It is common to remove the valances on the six cylinders as the heat can then exit through the wheel arches when static, but when moving it is my understand that the wheels and arches create aerodynamic low pressure so the heat/air is sucked out also helping cool the radiator better.Getting the air out is as important as forcing more air in the front, as said before this is pre heated. Improved air when moving will reduce the under bonnet temperature significantly reducing vaporization and overheating electrical component. Louvers, bonnet vent are a prettier solution than drilling round hole in the wings, but beware that this hot engine smelly engine air could be suck back into an open window when driving. An electric fan will actually restrict airflow when it is not running.I understand the frustration, hence ugly holes in my bonnet, and hope my experience is of some help.Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted July 6, 2016 Share Posted July 6, 2016 Put wing vents in the Sprite but that was to cure the front end going light at speed, still inclining towards louvres if I can find a tool to do them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted July 6, 2016 Share Posted July 6, 2016 PsApparently the fuel in France has a high ethanol content which won't be helping matters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted July 6, 2016 Share Posted July 6, 2016 Wen running Lucas PI in the GT, at low speeds in town, or just idling, the injectors always stated to go off,fuel boiling int pipes, esp as pipes went owa the rocker boxoriginally routed em along bulkheed bit, then to injectors.a wee bit of help, butt, biggest help was cutting bigg holes , vents int bonnet,higher up than factory vents.this, combined wid having electric engin fan on in town,or when anticipating a stop fora while, worked greatonly on a few v hot days did they act up.and its been even better wid EFI on, never a prob wid fuel nooOn a side line, I got a inlet temp gauge, and wen running at light throttle, this can be showing 25-30 degs wider throttle, and its showing 10-15 degs, seen -8 ona cold day, even wen temp is up to normal, and at wider throttles.BUTTT, leave it to idle, wid oot fan on, and temps can easily go owa 70-75 degs, fan on, it,ll drop to maybe 50 -55 degs.heat has to git oot, even wid nee fan on, the heat coming frae the side vents is alotttt.wid fan on, its alottt lotttt moer, infact, it can be felt a yard away.At speed, and reach oot, put yer hand owa the vents, and there alott of hot air coming oot, even ona cold day.Try running yer electric fan, befoer ye come to a halt, as I doo.I doo this, no so much for the fuel, butt, for the Ign, as iff too hot, it retatrds the ign, so meks timing alter, dont alter as much wid fan running, 1-2 degs, wid oot, its aboot 10 degsM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 Marcus,Been looking at louvres a few people will do them to your bonnet in the UK though most seem to want to weld in a louvre panel, which I'd rather not do.Have you a photo of your bonnet vents? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 Brad easiest would be for you to put them in yourself. I've never done it myself but my friend Trev who does this for a living made a very simple tool for forming them. I can ask him for some photos if it would help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 John,This is the best article I've found so farhttp://jeep-xj.info/HowtoFormLouvres.htmWould have to practice first then take a brave pill to work on the GT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 here ye are Brad, and hoo they held onVery efficient i must sayDid ye get this, it be good for yer AvatarM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 I was thinking of fitting some louvre vents to the engine valance exhaust/carb side only.with the vents facing forwards to try and get some cool air under the carbs.any thoughts on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 I was thinking of fitting some louvre vents to the engine valance exhaust/carb side only.with the vents facing forwards to try and get some cool air under the carbs.any thoughts on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 I was thinking something more over the carbs / inlets. What did you make yours out of?Nice aviator but to be honest I think it would get repetitive quite quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 well why no fit 2 NACA ducts above carbs.and fit them backwards, to extract the airhttps://www.google.co.uk/searc.....;biw=984&bih=597M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 Very similar to the Tiger bonnets those, I dunno I quite like louvres to be honest, will have a look at LMC this weekend for ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 Bastard car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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