RedRooster Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 Quoted from glang will you include a valve in the return to allow some adjustability or rely on the calculations? It certainly sounds like you've got plenty of spare capacity with your pump.... Was going to measure the flow back to tank first then decide.Still thinking about vents, starting to like the Le Mans ones but want to do it a bit more pleasing to the eye, something like Marcus did following the wing curves but dare i say it better engineered. I would like a folded / wired lip but can't see how that can be done without warping the wing as that section is all curves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted August 7, 2016 Author Share Posted August 7, 2016 Quoted from RedRooster Was going to measure the flow back to tank first then decide.Still thinking about vents, starting to like the Le Mans ones but want to do it a bit more pleasing to the eye, something like Marcus did following the wing curves but dare i say it better engineered. I would like a folded / wired lip but can't see how that can be done without warping the wing as that section is all curves. It should be possible to turn an edge over without distorting or damaging the panel particularly if you are doing it on a curve which gives plenty of rigidity. If you are going to use 4mm wire you will need to turn over at least half an inch. Mark the line and use a seamer tool or even glaziers pliers which have smooth jaws. You need to break an edge a little bit at a time and evenly all the way round. Once you have established a bend line, the metal will continue to bend on that line. Overlap each time as you continue to tip the flange over until it is beyond a right angle. At that point you can introduce the wire and trap it. I normally use a door skinning tool from here on. It has a rubber pad to avoid damage to the panel and turns the edge nice and tight onto the wire. Have a go on a piece of scrap but first form a curve over a paint tin or something with a similar radius to the wing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 Wasn't the original idea of waxstats to weaken the mixture as temps got hotter?Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 Thanks John,never tried anything like this before so will give it a go on some scrap, as usual until you give it a try it seems a bit daunting.CheersBrad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted August 7, 2016 Author Share Posted August 7, 2016 Quoted from RedRooster Thanks John,never tried anything like this before so will give it a go on some scrap, as usual until you give it a try it seems a bit daunting.CheersBrad It is daunting Brad on an immaculately painted bonnet but do give it a go on some scrap. 0.9 or 1mm mild steel. The secret is to turn the flange evenly and make several passes to get to a right angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted August 31, 2016 Share Posted August 31, 2016 Just (90% complete) plumbed in return to tank line, used a double banjo on the last carb so fairly easy to do, works out at half a litre a minute back to tank which I reckon isn't too excessive.Next up is an inlet heat shield, not a lot of room so going to be a bit tricky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted August 31, 2016 Share Posted August 31, 2016 guys do we get this problem with electric pumps ? if the fuel has vaporised will a electric pump fitted in the boot keep pushing fuel to the carbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT64fun Posted August 31, 2016 Share Posted August 31, 2016 I think it really depends on where the vapourisation is being initiated, ie:- is it at the carbs, the fuel lines or the fuel pump. My recent experience is that the pump is the main culprit and as it is attached directly to to the block it is easy to see how it will gain heat. Obviously the whole of the engine bay is warm but presumably some areas are warmer than others. Heat shields should protect the carbs from radiant heat from the exhaust mainfold and sleeving or re-routing the fuel lines can reduce the influence of the hot head. Some seem to suffer more than others. I have recently fitted a Huco suction pump in the engine bay on my GT6 but the results remain a little inconclusive (he was abit of a naughty boy on the Silverstone Classic weekend) but I will hopefully get it all sorted before the RBRR.RegardsIan F Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 If the vaporisation happens after the pump, although this is less likely as the fuel is under pressure (albeit small), I'd expect it to cause less trouble that vaporisation occurring at or before the pump. With the former the fuel will keep arriving though possibly a bit erratically, with the latter it'll likely stop arriving altogether.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 thes been a long thread running, and anuther just opened up ont Grerrylanshire TR forumthey experiancing it, some wid PI, some wid carbs,mostly due to altitudebutt, they talking fitting fuel coolers, as quite a few moderns ev em as standard.So, if a modern is suffering, then fit a cooler.M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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