GT666 Posted October 4, 2012 Posted October 4, 2012 One of the 3 holes where the bolts secure the lower door mounting plate has a stripped thread. My door sags as it opens.Is it better to recoil the hole with a larger thread and use a new slightly larger bolt, or do I dispense with rethreading and put a nut behind the mounting plate? I'm not even sure if I can access behind the plate to put a bolt on it.If there's an existing forum thread I can read then please post the link.Thanks
junkuser Posted October 4, 2012 Posted October 4, 2012 Sounds like you are referring to the plate in the car.These can be removed from inside by bending back the tag that retains them.Can then replace, re-make or refurbish.The plate is not very thick, so Helicoils not that suitable.Larger screws will most likely cause problems due to the head size.Easiest route is replace.Nut behind, not very convenient if you have to adjust door in the future.Maybe someone on here has a spare.
thebrookster Posted October 4, 2012 Posted October 4, 2012 Or if you take the nut behind route, you could simply tack weld the nut into position?Cheers,Phil
GT6Craig Posted October 4, 2012 Posted October 4, 2012 I wouldn't have thought a single knackered hole would have caused the door to sag?I have the same problem and will fix by using a longer bolt and locking nut on the end.
Rubce Posted October 4, 2012 Posted October 4, 2012 The drivers side door on ours has two knackered threads out of the 6 and it gradually sags over a period time and then requries resetting. I intend to address this issue during the resto.RegardsBruce
GT666 Posted October 4, 2012 Author Posted October 4, 2012 @junkuser So there's a separate plate? Didn't know that. It must be that which has a stripped thread then. Then replacing the bolts and plate is the solution then. Thanks!
GT666 Posted October 4, 2012 Author Posted October 4, 2012 Is this the plate? It's labelled as a gasket/shimhttp://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-610042
thebrookster Posted October 4, 2012 Posted October 4, 2012 Nope, that is a gasket which I had never realised was supposed to be there :X :XHere we go, Item No: 607610http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID005871According to Rimmers this is no longer available, maybe ring around a few places to double check elsewhere? Otherwise, simply make another, after all it is only a steel plate with three holes drilled in it :) :)Cheers,Phil
junkuser Posted October 4, 2012 Posted October 4, 2012 The plate is loosely located so it can be moved about to position the door.Which way you go depends on your experience and what facilities you have.If you have access to a lathe you can go up in size for the machine screws but the heads have to be reduced in size to allow the hinge full movement. The heads should be flush.You require a fine thread due to the thin plate and the amount of pressure required to stop the plate moving. (Rover used double sided emery cloth type stuff under their plates to prevent movement, at least on the 2000)A suitable machine screw, (not for the purists) if you do go up in size, is metric countersunk, socket head, but the depth of the head must be turned down. Can be done and still leave a functional depth of socket. Must use a decent brand such as Unbrako.I did all of mine in case another one stripped, but I just like preventing things happening rather than repairing when things go wrong. Peace of mind.
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