macca x Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 cant seem to find anything useing the search but im sure thers a few threads on the subject could someone please post up a link for me thanx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 Try this linkhttp://www.northcotts.clara.net/tsscdevon/technical/alternator/alternator.htmlI got an alternator and all the mounts/brackets from the spity graveyard for £20 it's a bolt on mod and a wee bit of joining wires in place of the control box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macca x Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 lol iv got that one ! off google search ! i really wanted to know what fan belt to use, iv got a alternator (cheap off ebay) and a good idea what to do, have you fitted a fuse box ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 I don't remember buying a new one when I converted the wife's 1200(but I have been asleep several times since then)If yours does not fit use a spitfire 1500 one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barney2005 Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 I converted my 13/60 recently using the link above. I had no problem with the fanbelt and just put the old one back on - it was still in good nick. I have heard that some people find that it blocks access to one of the sparkplugs, but I didn't find this. I don't know, but it may be different on 1200s. A useful hint I found on the web was to use an 8-way earth block from Screwfix to join all the wires together, then wrap well with amalgamating tape for insulation. Some of those wires are huge and would take some serious solderingl The part number is 11385 and is cheap enough at just over £2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macca x Posted June 20, 2012 Author Share Posted June 20, 2012 just to make sure, this dos change the car from + earth to neg earth right ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 5935 wrote:just to make sure, this dos change the car from + earth to neg earth right ?Normally yes.However you can get positive earth alternators.http://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?P_ID=32704 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2vitesses Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 I would run a new wire from the alternators output direct to the battery, the dynamo wiring is not up to the job!Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSpeedy Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 I've fitted a small 40amp 'no name' alternator of foreign origin. I'm running little more than standard electrics and it's proving superb so far.I did need to make a new tensioner bracket and a couple of spacers to fit onto the standard saloon mounting bracket, but nothing major. It is close to No.1 spark plug lead, but it does all miss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elma fud Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Speedy, did that spay can fall ;DLike your need for lightness with drilled alloy bracket ;) got titanium bolts yet! were all the rage when l used to do cycle racing 8) many noon's ago when l was young fit and thin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Mr.Speedy,Most interested to see your fitment of the same radiator as I have used!Cunning transfer of the top, engine-to-rad output by a cross tube welded on. I turned the connector round backwards on the thermostat housing to point the connector to the right, and made up some Samco and connectors left over from Silverback.Also cunning, so cunning I might steal it, steady for the top of the rad. However, it will transfer engine movement and vibration directly to the rad, which as it is alloy won't take kindly to vibration ans repititive stresses. So you can keep it!My solution was two struts made from threaded rod back to the suspension turrrets, that bear on the supports I had welded to the sides of the original rad.No pics - my camera was flooded watching the Olympic Torch pass by! See another thread.John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSpeedy Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 That radiator is a very suitable size/shape for the Vitesse, but it's not the easiest thing to bracket up for. I looked at trying to do the top hose connection with bends and rubber, but in the end I decided it would be easier and neater to just weld a cross tube on instead. (Does help when you can weld Aluminium tho ;))I'm not happy with the top mount either tbh, but I needed a quick fix. As you say, it does transfer some engine movement across to the rad, so It's far from ideal, although there is a little movement on the mounting pin to prevent stress damaging the rad. I will come up woth something better. Probably over the winter when I'll be taking it off the road again to do a few more improvements Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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