Antonnick Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 Next problem, if indeed it is a problem. The clutch pedal free play onmy 13/60 seems to me to be excessive. I have not actually measured it but it may be 50mm or so. There does not seem to be a method of adjusting this - or is there? Or is this excessive free play telling me something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 Hi Antonia, as you know we have hydraulic clutches so theres no adjustment available. The good news is that a high clutch bite point usually indicates a worn friction plate so a low one should be a good sign and is certainly easier to use as your foot can rest on the floor while operating it. However the bite point can get lower and lower as the crankshaft thrust bearing wears so if your not sure of its condition you need to check your crank endfloat by pushing and pulling on the front pulley. The movement should be minimal...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted August 11, 2018 Author Share Posted August 11, 2018 Hallo Glang, that is reassuring thankyou - I have already installed new thrust bearings when I did the main and big end bearings, you remember? But to me the free pedal movement is that before the hydraulic fluid ( I wanted to call it brake fluid ) even starts to operate. I suppose really, I should redo perhaps the seals in the master cylinder and if I am going to do that , might as well do the slave at the same time. I have already put new (brake 🙂 ) fluid in and that did make a huge difference to the clutch operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 Have you checked for wear on the clevis pin or wear in the clutch peddle. Also is the slave cylinder pushed in far enough into the clamp on the bell housing. Any wear in any of these places amount to a lot of free play in the peddle movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted August 11, 2018 Author Share Posted August 11, 2018 The clutch pedal assembly itself I renovated when i did the LHD conversion so I am confident it is not worn or loose. The slave cylinder......I do not know but when I took the gearbox cover off to access it for bleeding it did not seem to be wrongly mounted. However, I will check it again later in the year when the car is laid up for the winter. I should perhaps mention that when warmed up I cannot just push into 1st gear without a cruching sound from the gearbox. If you ease it into 1sr gear slowly then it is ok but not like a modern car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 I thought you had changed the thrusts and I take it the problem was present before that? The crunch when engaging first gear could be a worn synchro ring (although not sure your gearbox has one on first gear) which would be unusual as it normally has the easiest life of all the rings. Another possible cause is that the clutch isnt disengaging fully and, as you say, that could be down to the seals in the master cylinder. It has two: the main for pressurising the system which if it leaks allows fluid to come out usually down into the footwell carpets and a second seal that is operated before the main one and which closes off the inlet from the reservoir. Your problem is likely to be the second one as you dont get an external leak but can sometimes see the level of the reservoir rise slightly when the clutch pedal is pressed.... It might be better to replace the complete master cylinder as pattern ones are not expensive and guaranteed to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 you can to reduce unwanted push rod free play slot the bracket to baulkhead fixings and move the assy to reduce free travel,, there must always be a small play on the pushrod it also can raise the pedal and start point , you must use good washers over the slots Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daver clasper Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 Removing free play will also help with your gear crunching I think, as clutch has more chance of disengaging. This is only my assumption?. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted August 11, 2018 Author Share Posted August 11, 2018 I will give it a go in the coming weeks. The first gear crunching has always been there, mostly when the car was warmed up. My first task is actually to cure some overheating ( although it never boils over) in warm weather but there are some good tips elsewhere on the forum which I am following up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 Not thinking of upgrading the radiator are you? I dont know if this would fit your car but it looks great.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/42mm-Aluminium-Radiator-for-Triumph-Spitfire-Mark-3-4-1500-64-78-1965-1966-1967/253724675367?fits=Model%3ASpitfire&hash=item3b132b4d27:g:hp8AAOSwyARbRGrE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 also a tickover as low as possible should help reduce the crunching Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bitumen Boy Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 A second vote here for the wee valve seal in the master cylinder. You could rebuild the m/c and cure the problem, but by now it's probably so worn that it won't last long. I suggest fitting a replacement, wouldn't hurt to overhaul the slave cylinder (which is much simpler and doesn't really have anything to wear) with a seal kit while you're at it. Should you go down the road of fitting a replacement m/c, it wouldn't hurt to quickly dismantle it first and make sure the factory hasn't left any drilling swarf inside, I've found some before now. If removed and cleaned before use it won't hurt, of course it shouldn't be there at all but I despair of the quality of most stuff these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 I added one of these Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 Try bleeding it first. A bit of air can make a big difference. 😆 Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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