mocal oil coolers

[scotty71]

what is the best way to fit the MOCAL cooler? being my car does run hot. i have seen someone had fitted it near the rear of the engine bay? but would be looking at the front, under the rad. or around that area. any ideas?

[1968Vitesse25]

Behind the air inlet above the number plate.

[nang]

If it don't run hot, why do you need it , do you race it? Too cold is as bad as too hot to me.
Only my opinion though.
Tony.

[1968Vitesse25]

Scott's post say his car runs hot. An oil cooler is always a worthwhile fitment on any Triumph in these days of much higher densities of slow traffic and faster motorways. Adds a bit of extra oil capacity and disperses a useful amount of extra heat from the engine.
Triumph either fitted one as standard or offered it as an option on export cars going to countries with higher tempereatures or motorways in the long off days when we only had the Preston bypass. Most modern cars have one too.

[Jonny-Jimbo]

Comparing a Triumph to a modern car is a bit like chalk and cheese, or apples and oranges etc.

If you're going to fit an oil cooler, the normal position is in front of the radiator - just have a look at where you can install it easily. Maybe mount it vertically on the passenger side of the radiator, through the metal plate that supports said radiator?

Consider fitting an oil thermostat too, so it only cools the oil when needed. Maybe check the oil is actually getting hot too?

[scotty71]

thank gents for the reply's. I have tried different oils to see which ones could help, being I was using a 10/40 grade. but in slow traffic to Farnham car show the oil light started to glow. so now up the grade to 20/50 and now opted to run an oil cooler.
the engine is ok with 20/50 grade, and the oil light has not come back on. pressure is good.

[1968Vitesse25]

Quoted from Jonny-Jimbo

Comparing a Triumph to a modern car is a bit like chalk and cheese, or apples and oranges etc.

The laws of engineering applies exactly the same to a 1907 De Dion as a 2017 Ferrarri..

[1968Vitesse25]

Quoted from scotty71

thank gents for the reply's. I have tried different oils to see which ones could help, being I was using a 10/40 grade. but in slow traffic to Farnham car show the oil light started to glow. so now up the grade to 20/50 and now opted to run an oil cooler.
the engine is ok with 20/50 grade, and the oil light has not come back on. pressure is good.

10/40's too thin for the clearances. 20/50 is the right grade - Valvolines racing mineral oil gets a lot of positive feedback. An oil cooler gets you a couple of pints extra oil capacity.

[scotty71]

i will be running 20/50 from now on, with the oil cooler.

[glang]

I dont know what car you've got but are you sure the existing cooling system is working at its best? If the rad hasnt been recored recently or has the original design you could see a substantial improvement with a recore and of course flushing the system at the same time brings obvious benefits.
As well as the expense oil cooler,s by taking the oil outside of the engine, do add an element of risk.....    

[Clive]

And to reiterate a point made earlier, it is essential to run an oil thermostat. Oil too cold is very bad...

[glang]

And if you must have an oil cooler take a look at this installation for an interesting alternative:

Sorry , link no longer available

[GT6 M]

Oil, try,n use the Penrite stuff, 20'60, its quite decent stuff
and dont go off like quite a few doo efta a while so keeps its pressure

M

[GT6 M]

forget the mineral oil its not 1970 anymore.
Use fully synthetic.

Says Ian,

  
yip its great stuff,
BUTT, its gotta ev a good dose of ZDDP init
most modern synths aint got it

needed for yer cam an followers

one I use es loadsa the stuff init,  and it odds PSI v v well indeed

M

[Nick Jones]

It's true about ZDDP being a backup for when the oil film fails as it's purpose is at least partly as a dry lubricant.

The point is though, in flat tappet engines as Triumphs and others of the period, these conditions do exist between cam and follower quite alot of time and if there is insufficient ZDDP present, especially during early stages of running in, you will get microwelding and tearing leading to pitting and full blow failure in a very short time.

This isn't the only cause of cam/follower failure in these engines but it is certainly in the mix.

Nick

[1968Vitesse25]

You can get cans of Lucas Oil ZDDP break in additive from American car spares places. Well worth bunging a can in with a new cam/tappets

[1968Vitesse25]

Quoted from Spitfire6

Hi,
forget the mineral oil its not 1970 anymore.
Use fully synthetic.
Fit an oil temp sensor to see if an oil cooler is required.
Cold oil is generally worse than very hot oil over the long term.
20w50 is a poor choice today.

Cheers,
Iain.

Modern mineral oil formulations are very different oils to the stuff sold in the 70's.

http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/vr1_racing.pdf

[GT6 M]

and that chart shows just how a multi grade  oil aint actually dooing as its supposed t,doo
thats why I think its better t,go thicker in oor engines.
as it dont tek much for a 20/50W oil t,revert back to its base 20W

as thee,s figs show,its already below what it should be as new
so wots it gonna be like whenst its older,
M

[1968Vitesse25]

So, can we get a fully synthetic oil with enough ZDDP?

[Clive]

There may be a racing oil?
Otherwise maybe a BMW m spec 10/60 or similar, and add a can of zddplus? Works out a tad expensive!!

Besides, most people won't see any benefit. And there are a few half decent oils at fair prices out there. The miller's CSS I use was bought at a very good price at a show. Doubt I would buy again unless £30 a tub (or less!)

[Clive]

Ha, great minds....

[sparky_spit]

The cheapest ZDDP additive I've found is https://uk.eastcoastadditives.com/products/east-coast-zddp   The only issue is, being quite a bit cheaper than some others, is it any good?  It's one of those things where you won't find out until it's too late, especially on running in a newly rebuilt engine where you are mixing it with cheap mineral oil for the first few hundred miles use.

[1968Vitesse25]

£15+ a litre?!?!?!  

I'll stick to 5 litres of Valvoline for £30

[JohnD]

Quoted from 1968Vitesse25

You can get cans of Lucas Oil ZDDP break in additive from American car spares places. Well worth bunging a can in with a new cam/tappets

Just been looking for some, but all I can find is in the US, and the shipping price is more than the product.   I note that many oil makers, including Lucas Oils, now offer a break-in oil, ready mixed.
   Either this is a well-copied marketing move, or some regulation is preventing the additive being sold, and all that is left in stock, is old stock.

John

[1968Vitesse25]

Quoted from JohnD

Just been looking for some, but all I can find is in the US, and the shipping price is more than the product.   I note that many oil makers, including Lucas Oils, now offer a break-in oil, ready mixed.
   Either this is a well-copied marketing move, or some regulation is preventing the additive being sold, and all that is left in stock, is old stock.

John

It has to be sold as 'for racing use'. Product liability and all that good stuff. It poisons catalytic converters.