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Crankshaft rear oil seal


mazfg

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With my gearbox currently being rebuilt..I was thinking of taking the clutch out and wondered how easy it would be to take the flywheel off and replace the crankshaft rear oil seal?

I see theres a scroll type and no scroll type crank??  Slightly confused? I do have a reddy orange coloured seal to fit..but wondering if this is correct??

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Yes I recommend changing the seal while youre at this stage and it isnt difficult although you will need to realign the clutch afterwards. Mark everything as you take it off so that it all goes back the same and of course check the state of the friction plate while your at it. However Im not sure when the scroll type was superseded and you need to find out as theres probably no point dismantling things if you do have that type....

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Quoted from glang
Yes I recommend changing the seal while youre at this stage and it isnt difficult although you will need to realign the clutch afterwards. Mark everything as you take it off so that it all goes back the same and of course check the state of the friction plate while your at it. However Im not sure when the scroll type was superseded and you need to find out as theres probably no point dismantling things if you do have that type....


Thanks. I think I read somewhee on Rimmers that pre certain engine numbers it was scroll wheel?   The clutch was fitted March last year and haven't driven huge amounts so should be good. I have an alignment tool so no problem re-doing that.

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Hi Maz,
            the scroll seal is a very simple device but it can be fitted badly. It needs to be central about the crank journal.
To replace or re-set the scroll seal you need the engine out and the crank out.

If it is similar to the TR seal/crank then the Australians have a very simple seal that simply fits over the flywheel attachment flange.

Using two 'O' ring seals that are a nice fit over the crank journal. Put one in place then the other over the top of it.
The oil leakage will lubricate the seal but will not get past it.

very simple and you do not have to take the engine out.. Flywheel off, seals on, refit flywheel.

Roger

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Scrolls are good they  never wear out
flywheel off is easy, to centalise the scroll hsg if its needed is just equally space some feelers between hsg and crank, you can do it simply with  the engine in situ ,
certainly does not need the crank out  
you would only need a new hsg. If it had been fouled by the crank and damaged

if you have some feeler strip you run it round the crank but 3 similar feelers will do the job very easily,
From experience it will not need any attention,  they may have some misting around the hsg,  normal.
like gearbox front scrolls  if parked on the side of Mount everest they can leak as can over filling,

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I can only echo the other comments in favour of scrolls. They need a little care in setting up but nothing you can't tackle with ordinary tools and a little patience, and they don't wear out. Yes they can pass a wee bit of oil but in practice it's not enough to cause any problems and certainly a lot less than leaks from the other "usual suspect" places. IMO a scroll is probably the best bet.

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Quoted from Bitumen Boy
I can only echo the other comments in favour of scrolls. They need a little care in setting up but nothing you can't tackle with ordinary tools and a little patience, and they don't wear out. Yes they can pass a wee bit of oil but in practice it's not enough to cause any problems and certainly a lot less than leaks from the other "usual suspect" places. IMO a scroll is probably the best bet.


So, if I have a scroll...is it likely ok?  Just reading the replies I'm guessing it's the best one to have over a lipped oil seal. There are no further seals to a scroill..just the scroll and the hosuing and the gasket?

I guess best thing is to remove the clutch and flywheel and inspect. I'll take some pics too.

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