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Oil stop leak products


Jezmond

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I've always had clutch judder when the engine is up to temperature which I now believe is probably due to a small leak from the rear crank shaft oil seal. It makes driving uncomfortable on long journeys.
At some time in the next year or so I intend to take the box out at which time I'll replace the seal but in the meantime I'm thinking of using an oil stop leak product - either the Wynns version from Halfords or the Lucas one from eBay.
Does anyone have any experience of these? Do they work, or can they cause any damage?

All advice appreciated.
Jez

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If you engine is as early as the car in your sig ('60) then I don't think you have a rear crank seal as such.  It will be a scroll type mechanical thing and unlikely to be influenced by any of these products.  The gearbox input shaft has the same arrangement and is perhaps more likely to get oil on the clutch, being on the same side of the flywheel.  In my experience it takes a big leak from the engine to cause clutch problems.

Probably worth investigating things like engine and gearbox mounts first...... but the early coil spring clutches are not perfect devices in the first place....

Nick

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Although she's a '60 coupe, the original 948 engine bit the dust a long time ago. When I rebuilt her I had John Kipping build me a 12/50 engine and 4 synchro box. I finished it off with a diaphragm clutch.
So it sounds as though it's more likely a gearbox leak then? How easy is that to fix?

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Do you know what brand of clutch is fitted? At one time, QH clutches were notorious for juddering, and if my memory's right it would have been around the time Rita was built.
Apart from that, juddering is often caused (or at least exaggerated) by softened engine and/or gearbox mountings,

Cheers,
Bill.

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Hi Bill

My memory is definitely not that good! It's quite possibly QH but I honestly don't know.
I doubt it's the engine or box mounts but I'll change the box mounts just in case.

I've lived with the judder for 20 years, I guess I can wait a few more months till I take the box out.

Jez

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degraded front diff mounts can also aggrevate judder.

on our vit6 we had low speed and reverse judder with 2 coil covers ,a  mod to 2ltr  classic clutches diapragm unit and after the numerous clutch changes , a new engine back plate as old was  like a banana , much rework of the withdrawl arms , diff mounts , and much more the problem persisted against all odds,
last attemp fitted a QH diapragm unit and all peace and quiet ,,,judder free.....why is it when you replace the obvius contender the first problem remains to haunt you   ???   convinced these little cars listen to what you say..

Pete

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"I've lived with the judder for 20 years, I guess I can wait a few more months till I take the box out."
A way of living with this problem in the meantime Jez is to change the technique of engagement.   If you are not already using this method.

Start moving off using higher revs than normal and a lot of clutch slip.
Once moving, allow throttle to close but don't change the position of the clutch.
As soon as the clutch bites, take foot off clutch and open the throttle progressively.
A little experimenting and this usually works but difficult starting up hill.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had a really nice run to East Sussex today. No problems to report other than some fuel vaporisation after a short stop. That soon cleared.
When I went to lock the garage this evening I thought I'd have a look underneath to see if there is any oil dripping from the bellhousing. There is, and it drips onto the exhaust which accounts for some smoke when she warming up. So it seems likely that this causes the clutch judder.
So, my question is, how do I tell it it's engine oil or gearbox oil?

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Gearbox oil has a distinctive sulphurous smell.  It's particularly acrid when burning off exhausts I find...... Engine oil has a sweeter, exhausty smell.  Also likely to be darker in colour, though after a journey through the bell housing that might not be a very reliable indicator.

Nick

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