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Davemate

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If a car boils over I know you should not just pour cold water into the rad as the cold water going into a hot engine can warp heads and cause head gaskets to go.
But I seem to recal reading something about putting cold oil into a hot engine can cause the same thing to happen to the big and main bearings
Is this correct or is it total bollo$ks
The reason behind this is that after running continually at 4000 revs for 40 minutes the other day on the way home from Radders the oil preasure dropped off to the point that the oil flickered when the engine was idleing.
On the way to Radders the last 10 minutes of the drive was a 40 mph and around some back streets so the oil had a chance to cool off a bit and the preasure was fine, as opposed to off the motor way and 1.5 miles later I am home.
After 15 minutes I went out and started the car and the preasure was fine.
I am going to fit an oil cooler but when the stat opens will it not just be putting stone cold oil into a hot engine !!!
I know all,if not most racing type cars have them but it's a niggle in to back of my mind

This could just be a "bloke down the pub said" thing

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Having a oil stat in the garage waiting to be fitted, it appears that when it opens some of the oil goes through the cooler and some bypasses back to the engine. I could be wrong.....(it is a partial guess, but makes sense from the construction)
Besides, the oil will not get cold from going through the cooler, just lose some of the heat. Which is a very good thing.

Besides, you don't worry about the water rad making the engine get cold water, same idea, if you follow.

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Dave,
If your engine boils over, it's not a good idea to open the rad cap at all!
The remaining water, at high temperature and high pressure, will flash-boil as the pressure drops, and explode all over you and your car!   That would make sure that almost no water was left in the cooling system.   Let the car cool down until you can open the cap without a deadly hiss and spit, and  the remaining water will buffer any cold you add.    I think this is an old wives', or very old motorists' tale, from days of yore!

I have to say that an oil cooler isn''t the answer to your problem.    Road running at 4K won't excessively heat the oil, though low pressure after doing so may indicate a worn engine.  But, courage mon ami!   It's fairly common for our engines to have a flickering oil pressure light when hot and idling.  Our bearings have much greater tolerances that a modern, even when new.   Invest in an oil pressure gauge.   If pressure is in the 40 range while running, that's fine.

And what oil?   Synthetics are no use to our engines, just too thin and low pressure.  
John

PS An oil cooler MUST have a thermostat for road running.    Otherwise, the oil will pass through the cooler all the time, not only under stressful conditions, and the oil will be far too cool to work properly.  It is designed to work at approx water boiling point.   I admit that I don't have a 'stat on the race car, but then I KNOW I'm going to stress the engine!

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Clive
      I have bought a oil kit which has the stat in the adaptor/sandwhich plate(I think)
So that should be fine.

John
I use a normal 20/50 oil (macess £8 for 5ltrs) just cheapie stuff and I change it regularly
Then engine does not smoke and I done a compression test which gave readings of 180 lb in all four pots.
After 15-20 minutes running(going to work) the oil preasure is still up at 50 lb when over 1000 revs and at tickover(750-800) it sits at about 30,which is why I thought that the oil may be getting over hot
After longer but gentle runs the preasure drops to about 20 lb but after a 4000 rev blas for 40minutes it drops right off


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Dave, I would echo the comment about the oil. I used to have the smae trouble of dropping pressure after along run. I now use Miller semi synthetic 20/50 sport classic, oil pressure does not budge now even on events such as 10CR or RBRR.  Bit dearer than yours though at £30 - £35 per gall.

I'm currently working towards a bulk buy  as my stocks are low. Let me know if you want a few

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Biggest ye can get .   cos even with a 13 row you be over heating it.
and loosing pressure

yip as Clffty says a good oil.

Note, even if its a 20,   / 40 /50 / 60 oil, its all really just a 20 weight oil with  long chains, that bond together when hot,to make it thicker
worn oot oil, will revert back to a 20 oil
and the hotter it gets,the sooner it will break doon.

M

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MikeyB wrote:
Dave, I would echo the comment about the oil. I used to have the smae trouble of dropping pressure after along run. I now use Miller semi synthetic 20/50 sport classic, oil pressure does not budge now even on events such as 10CR or RBRR.  Bit dearer than yours though at £30 - £35 per gall.

I'm currently working towards a bulk buy  as my stocks are low. Let me know if you want a few


Mike,

Please put me down for a couple of galls.

H

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Dave

Mike beat me to the recommendation, I put the Millers in my Spitfire, went to the south of France in 40 degree heat and did not loose oil pressure after 10 hours of driving.

Have also done 2 10CR's on the stuff, thrashing up the passes, no issues.

Cheers

Colin

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1344 wrote:
... engine does not smoke and I done a compression test which gave readings of 180 lb in all four pots.
After 15-20 minutes running(going to work) the oil preasure is still up at 50 lb when over 1000 revs and at tickover(750-800) it sits at about 30,which is why I thought that the oil may be getting over hot


Thise are good pressures and are not a problem

1344 wrote:
After longer but gentle runs the preasure drops to about 20 lb but after a 4000 rev blas for 40minutes it drops right off


You don't say at what revs the pressure drops to 20 but losing all pressure at any revs is obviously not good. The problem could be either cheap oil (highly likely) or a faulty pressure switch. There are other causes but these are the most likely. Start with putting some decent oil in there. Also is your tickover set properly? A Triumph engine ticking over too slowly is likely to have a flickering pressure light on tickover when hot


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Steve_Curton wrote:

1)You don't say at what revs the pressure drops to 20 but losing all pressure at any revs is obviously not good. The problem could be either cheap oil (highly likely) or a faulty pressure switch. There are other causes but these are the most likely. Start with putting some decent oil in there.
2) Also is your tickover set properly? A Triumph engine ticking over too slowly is likely to have a flickering pressure


Steve
1)under 1000 rpm it drops to about 20lb,over that it's sits around the 50lb(75 when stone cold)
2)Thats 750 -800

Flickering light is only after a long blast a few months ago I drove to Lowestoft(120 miles)
I took an easy ride on the m25 and the a12 to Ipswich then went a bit mad on the upper a12
but just took it easy for the last 15 minutes or so due to a tractor
When I pulled up outside the mother in laws all was fine oil was about 15-20lb and no light flickering on tickover.
It just seems to be if it has a so called hard run and does not get to wind down at bit before I let it idle.
I'll try a better oil before I fit the cooler.

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MikeyB wrote:
Dave, I forgot to say - I would have no worries about a 15-20lb tickover.  If your light flickers at this pressure, try another sensor.


Mike,
      When the preasure is 15 -20 lb the light does not flicker
After a long blast the preasure drops of to 10 or just under that's when the light flicks,but if I then drive for a bit longer and let things mellow out a bit the preasure rises to 10-15 and the light stays off.
We are ONLY talking about on tickover !!!!!!!

The preasure of 10(flicky light)only happens when its catching it's breath as it were after a hard run
I can drive like a total mad pratt,reving the bollo€oks of it going to work,which is about 5-6 miles and the preasure is still at 20-30lb at tickover

Which is why I thought it mayby due to over heated oil as it is only happens after a constant longish run at a high rev ,I put a stop at 4000 revs for constant running
On a constant run normaly I'll run at 3500 and the above problem does not happen

In the future I'll be doing track days,auto solos and other such fun things so a good amount of heat will be generated and I don't want the this worrie

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Richard_B wrote:
Do you still have the 4.11 diff?

Do you have an oil cooler?

1500's in Heralds need all the help they can get.  ;D


Richard
It's all spit
Diff,overive gearbox and engine
It has a standard herald rad but it has been re-cored with a three core matrix and I have no cooling(water) issues.
Oil cooler being picked up on Friday,hence this thread  

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just an update
All the pictures are after a 5mile drive to work
At Tickover


At 1000 revs

At 1500 revs


Will the new millers and  the oil cooler fitted but after only 5miles the stat would still be shut
but at least is there if its required
At tickover

The presure is now

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