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Is a vacuum pipe needed on a 123 distributor?


PaulB

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piman wrote:
Hello Bainzy,

David Vizard's poor man's dynamometer was to  jack up the back of the car and put it securely on stands. Use the car's brakes to load the engine. Takes some time as you need to let them cool down from time to time. I  must say I haven't tried it but it's a thought?


I've actually tried it, it's hell on your brake shoes and seems to wear them down really quickly (exacerbated by lack of cooling airflow?). Plus it still only gets you a few needle stations higher leaving the mid and upper ranges still untuned.

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thebrookster wrote:
Sure, I can modify needles with a bit of care and attention, as no doubt can several others on here, but to be able to complete two needles identically, along with doing the initial settings, in one day is in my book definitely skill!!


It's actually fairly easy in practice. You won't get them bang on the same, but with a micrometer it's easy to see where you're taking material off. No point making them perfect to .000000001" because the inlet manifolds and carbs people are using are unlikely to have airflow perfectly the same for each cylinder anyway.

Everyone says you'll probably ruin the first needles, I didn't and unless you're impatient or using too coarse sandpaper you shouldn't do. The only big risk of wrecking needles is when you start guessing which needle stations to file - if you're using an oxygen sensor then you shouldn't end up guessing.

Although you will need a rolling road for the higher range of needle stations (in practice 30mph + or half throttle +), reprofiling needles in your garage with a wideband makes a huuuuge difference in how the car will drive at low speeds, through first and second gear etc.

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Hello Nick,

"you may have some scope for adding more advance at cruise and low load settings which will help economy"

This needs to be done in conjunction with the fuelling, unless the cruise mixture is set weak then there's no point using vacuum advance settings.

Alec

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