alternator conversion mk3 spitty

[phillip ridley]

hello i want to convert the wiring on my mk3 spitty for the alternator on my replacement engine would anyone have a wiring diagram please  :)

[GT6chris]

Haven't got a wiring diagram but this article covers it in some detail:

http://www.northcotts.clara.net/tsscdevon/technical/alternator/alternator.html

Chris

[phillip ridley]

thanks for your help

[phillip ridley]

hope this can help someone with the same alternator  conversion and removing the voltage regulator

Spitfire 4, Mk 2, Mk3, Vitesse 1600 and 2 litre models and GT6 Mk 1

Spitfire 4 and Mk 2 and Vitesse 1600 must first be converted to Negative earth if this has not previously been done.

Alternator connections
Colours at the dynamo/alternator should be a heavy browN/Yellow with a large (9.5mm) lucar terminal and a thin browN/Green with a small (6.3mm) lucar terminal Connect these to the appropriate alternator terminals. See also ‘Additional wiring’, below.

Control box
This should be a three bobbin RB340 type with 6 terminals: 2 x B, F, WL, D, and E.

Disconnect the Black wire from the terminal E. This disables the Control Box

Disconnect the browN/Green from terminal F. Disconnect the thin browN/Yellow wire from the terminal WL. Connect these two wires together. They control the ignition/charging indicator light.

Disconnect all remaining wires from:
B (browN)
D (heavy browN/Yellow) [charging wire].
Connect all of these wires together with a suitable connector:

The Big connection
This conversion requires that a number of large wires, (browN and heavy browN/Yellow) are connected together and to the charging wire from the alternator (heavy browN/Yellow). This connection carries all main electrical power and is connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery. It is essential that this connection is electrically sound, with minimum resistance, and that it is effectively and robustly insulated as any short circuit to earth may well lead to a vehicle fire and is very likely to cause wiring to be burnt out. Ideally the connector should be firmly mounted to prevent movement and abrasion.

An elegant and effective connector can be made by stripping out the internals of an unused RB340 type regulator control box and soldering heavy gauge wire between terminals B and D and, separately between F and WL. This allows all the wires to be connected to their original terminals, thus retaining the original look.

Additional wiring (optional)
It is worthwhile to increase the capacity of the wiring to cater for any heavy charging currents (e.g. charging a flat battery). This can be done as follows, using suitable connectors. Fit a heavy gauge brown or brown/yellow wire with a large (9.5mm) lucar connector to the unused large terminal on the alternator. Bind the wire to the loom and run it to the battery side of the starter solenoid, connecting it with a ring terminal.  

[Phwoar]

OK, now I'm worried hence the numpty question, aren't all Spitfire's negative earth?

[DanM]

no the early 1147cc ones ie up to mk2 were positive earth

[phillip ridley]

I think there positive earth unless it's already been changed I hope with the info above polarity will be correct I haven't had time to do it yet fingers crossed maybe some on the forum can clarify this thanks . Phill

[phillip ridley]

Mine is a  mk3 Spitty 1.3  is it neg earth or pos earth ?

[Clive]

Mk3 is neg earth.

[phillip ridley]

Thanks everything is missing off the Spitty so that's good to no thanks

[Davemate]

8483 wrote:

hope this can help someone with the same alternator  conversion and removing the voltage regulator

Spitfire 4, Mk 2, Mk3, Vitesse 1600 and 2 litre models and GT6 Mk 1

Spitfire 4 and Mk 2 and Vitesse 1600 must first be converted to Negative earth if this has not previously been done.

Alternator connections
Colours at the dynamo/alternator should be a heavy browN/Yellow with a large (9.5mm) lucar terminal and a thin browN/Green with a small (6.3mm) lucar terminal Connect these to the appropriate alternator terminals. See also ‘Additional wiring’, below.

Control box
This should be a three bobbin RB340 type with 6 terminals: 2 x B, F, WL, D, and E.

Disconnect the Black wire from the terminal E. This disables the Control Box

Disconnect the browN/Green from terminal F. Disconnect the thin browN/Yellow wire from the terminal WL. Connect these two wires together. They control the ignition/charging indicator light.

Disconnect all remaining wires from:
B (browN)
D (heavy browN/Yellow) [charging wire] .
Connect all of these wires together with a suitable connector:

The Big connection
This conversion requires that a number of large wires, (browN and heavy browN/Yellow) are connected together and to the charging wire from the alternator (heavy browN/Yellow). This connection carries all main electrical power and is connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery. It is essential that this connection is electrically sound, with minimum resistance, and that it is effectively and robustly insulated as any short circuit to earth may well lead to a vehicle fire and is very likely to cause wiring to be burnt out. Ideally the connector should be firmly mounted to prevent movement and abrasion.

An elegant and effective connector can be made by stripping out the internals of an unused RB340 type regulator control box and soldering heavy gauge wire between terminals B and D and, separately between F and WL. This allows all the wires to be connected to their original terminals, thus retaining the original look.

Additional wiring (optional)
It is worthwhile to increase the capacity of the wiring to cater for any heavy charging currents (e.g. charging a flat battery). This can be done as follows, using suitable connectors. Fit a heavy gauge brown or brown/yellow wire with a large (9.5mm) lucar connector to the unused large terminal on the alternator. Bind the wire to the loom and run it to the battery side of the starter solenoid, connecting it with a ring terminal.  

You can also do this inside the an old control box, no soldering required

File the arrowed terminal down to accept a small spade end


End result


Then as you quite rightly said

Additional wiring (optional)
It is worthwhile to increase the capacity of the wiring to cater for any heavy charging currents (e.g. charging a flat battery). This can be done as follows, using suitable connectors. Fit a heavy gauge brown or brown/yellow wire with a large (9.5mm) lucar connector to the unused large terminal on the alternator. Bind the wire to the loom and run it to the battery side of the starter solenoid, connecting it with a ring terminal.

[phillip ridley]

thanks this will look a lot better keeping the box and the engine bay as is   thanks just need to find one now  ;D

[BrendanD]

When I did this in 1988 to my Herald 13/60 I used some heavy duty junction boxes + heavy duty wire and sealed it all inside a small electrical project box from Maplin.

[phillip ridley]

thanks i will give maplins a try there's one local  :)

[Phwoar]

7915 wrote:

no the early 1147cc ones ie up to mk2 were positive earth

OK, thanks. My Mk2 should be negative earth then. It's still in a thousand pieces and I am going to re-wire it completely, one way or another it'll be negative earth by the time I've finished. (If I ever finish it)

[phillip ridley]

mine was in bits but going together quite well ive tried to put pictures on but there to big the site says

[RedRooster]

Thanks davemate for the refresher, i did the conversion years ago to the Sprite but have since lost my notes.
RR