Maggie13 Posted July 30, 2022 Share Posted July 30, 2022 Fuel pump not working. It pushes the fuel out but then takes it back again like a one way valve not working. Is it best to buy a rebuild kit and keep my pump or buy a new one. The new one is cheaper but then its probably rubbish. Maybe the rebuild kits are poor quality too. Any advice appreciated and where to get the best one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted July 30, 2022 Share Posted July 30, 2022 Most of the new ones are dodgy - pressure set too high - and require bodges to make them work right. I've rebuilt a couple of original ones in my time and it's not too hard. Also, the kits are generally fine. It sounds like yours probably needs the valves replaced, which is a bit tricky as they're staked in, so a bit of delicate work with a Dremel is needed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted July 30, 2022 Share Posted July 30, 2022 Yes thats the classic symptom of the outlet valve not closing properly (inlet one probably working ok). There might be some muck stuck in it so you could try blowing through it or flushing but the most likely is the valves had it. Its true replacement pumps have a reputation of excessive output pressure but that wasnt my experience and anyway as various Triumph manuals state if the pressure of a replacement pump is too high it can be reduced by making and installing extra gaskets between it and the engine block. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Clasper Posted July 30, 2022 Share Posted July 30, 2022 I thought the kits were still cheaper than a new pump?. I think the kits may be generic?. For example I think a land Rover one has the same internal replacement parts?. I was thinking of buying a kit as a spare and cheapest was about £11.00 a few months ago I think. land Rover/Mini/MG stuff, is often cheaper than Triumph and are sometimes the same parts. I guess more is produced?. Saying that, maybe we should support the Triumph suppliers anyway, unless were on a very tight budget. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maggie13 Posted July 30, 2022 Author Share Posted July 30, 2022 When i typed it into ebay the pumps were coming up at about £20 including postage. The kits for building it started at about £25 including postage. Is their 3 different pumps and how do I know its the right kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted July 30, 2022 Share Posted July 30, 2022 Yes there are different pumps but the valves and diaphragm are common in a lot of them although of course youd be best to confirm exactly what youve got. That price youve quoted for a kit seems high and Dave's is more what Id expect to pay. However if youve got doubts about which pump you have or changing its valves perhaps a replacement unit would be the best option. I got mine from James Paddock... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted October 25, 2022 Share Posted October 25, 2022 (edited) My 13/60 runs well and starts first time if the motor has run the day before. But after a week it has to be turned over a few times before firing up and running. Leave it idle for a month and it will not start at all and I have to gravity feed from a canister to start. After replacing everything is fine again. The replacement kit is apparantly only suitable for original fuel pumps not after market. On another thread, I think it was the experienced Rob Pearce who remarked that pumps with a narrow arm are after market and that is what I have. What to do? My German supplier recommends using an elektric pump as he says, the after market mechanical ones are so unreliable, he will not offer them any more. Is this the only solution these days? Edited October 25, 2022 by Antonnick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted October 25, 2022 Share Posted October 25, 2022 I recommend sticking with the mechanical pump as these can work perfectly, even after market ones. First has yours got a manual lever on it? If so this can give much more stroke of the pump than the arm operated by the cam which is logical because with the engine running the pump will be operated much more rapidly than by hand so its stroke needs to be considerably less (ie. only the height of the cam lobe). When the car has been left a long time the fuel line from the tank empties and the fuel has to be sucked back up out of the tank along to the pump which takes quite a lot to do. The best way to this is with the pump manual lever for the reason above... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JumpingFrog Posted October 25, 2022 Share Posted October 25, 2022 (edited) The new pumps, I wouldn't use from what I've heard, too higher pressure, or risk of destroying the lobe on your cam - seems all pumps made now have the longer operating lever that needs a spacer. I would have previously to recommended the rebuild kit, especially if you can find an early pump with the forged operating lever and the valves that are retained with screws rather than being staked in, then everything is easy to rebuild. But last one I did, I couldn't get to stop leaking, and I really tried! So I'm more taken with electric pumps now, I've just fitted a Huco 133000 (near tank fitment) to my car along and although everything worked fine before, it's nice not having to worry about priming after long lay ups etc. Edited October 25, 2022 by JumpingFrog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted October 26, 2022 Share Posted October 26, 2022 I bought a replacement aftermarket pump, fitted it and its worked perfectly ever since. Ok the cam arm is thinner than the original but its softer than the hardened cam surface so most wear should be of the arm. Surely the repair kits are suitable for pumps like this as the suppliers sell both together but of course it must be confirmed with them. In the end for the price and hassle of using one I thought it was better just to get a new pump... It does appear there can be an over pressure problem with them (that was always a possibility with any replacement pump) but, as Triumph recommended, its easily adjusted by using packers between engine and pump to move the operating arm further away from the cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wendy Dawes Posted October 26, 2022 Share Posted October 26, 2022 I fitted a replacement, again it’s been fine so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted October 26, 2022 Share Posted October 26, 2022 Yes think we have to be careful here because sometimes a replacement part can give problems which are later rectified by the manufacturer but the story of the failures last for a long time afterwards. We never get to hear about the later successes because theyre nothing unexpected! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted October 26, 2022 Share Posted October 26, 2022 (edited) Many thanks everyone. I will get a new replacement one then, they are not that expensive and see how it goes. I also do not like the idea of using an electric pump, unless really necessary - it just does not look right. Edit: Nearly forgot - my existing does not have a priming lever Edited October 26, 2022 by Antonnick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted October 26, 2022 Share Posted October 26, 2022 Mine was from this supplier and very similar to the photo although for a Vitesse James Paddock Limited - Triumph Stag, Spitfire, TR6, TR7, GT6, Vitesse, Herald Parts and Spares Specialists. FUEL PUMP(208493) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted October 27, 2022 Share Posted October 27, 2022 21 hours ago, Antonnick said: Many thanks everyone. I will get a new replacement one then, they are not that expensive and see how it goes. I also do not like the idea of using an electric pump, unless really necessary - it just does not look right. Edit: Nearly forgot - my existing does not have a priming lever Really recommend one with a manual lever - please let us know how you get on.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted October 31, 2022 Share Posted October 31, 2022 (edited) Anti-climax. The new pump with a manuallever arrived today. I took the old one off and thought it might be an idea to test it anyway. So I connected up a tube to the inlet and pumped it using the camlever from a petrol cannister. It worked extremely well and pushed a torrent of fuel out. Obviously nothing wrong there. So I refitted it and tried again - the engine sprung into life after only a few seconds. So what was wrong before? I suspect that the inlet hose was not sufficiently tight as it was very easy to disconnect and as such the pump in prime modus operation was perhaps sucking in air and not fuel. My incompetenz knows no limits. 😐 The new fuel pump I will keep as a spare for the future. Edited October 31, 2022 by Antonnick 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted October 31, 2022 Share Posted October 31, 2022 well a spare is always useful to have😊However I do like a manual lever as unfortunately my car gets left unused for fairly long periods so I use it to refill the carb chambers from time to time to stop the risk of any sticky residue if they empty completely.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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