Removing Timing Cover Spitfire 1500

[Kevin R]

I want to replace the timing cover and carry out some maintenance/refurb at the same time and would be very grateful for any advice on the following:

1. What size is the crank pulley nut and the best way to remove it ?

2. I have a replacement original timing cover - any suggestions for the best material to replace the anti rattle/vibration pad stuck to the outside.

3. Any other advice ?

Thank you in advance

[JohnD]

1/ 1+11/16th, I think

2/  Don't bother makes no f&^*&^ difference if there's mothing there.

3/ Why?

[Clive]

If you really want to use some noise reduction stuff, a splurt or underseal would probably work, or a bit of bitumen sound pad. But as John points out, it seems to make zero difference. I have always cleaned the cover up back to bare metal and painted.

Other advice. Be VERY careful about the tensioner. Most (all?) new ones are inferior to the originals. So I would use a good used one every day of the week.

[Tim Bancroft]

Chris Witor is selling better quality chain tensioners, umm only for 2.5 duplex. So not a lot of good......Sorry. Some people do swap over to duplex kits for their Spits.

Can be fiddly locating the cover onto the engine as the tensioner jams against the timing chain, wrap some steel wire around the tensioner and pull it to the side, once in position, pull the wire out. 

When taking off the cover, make a note where the different fasteners go, put them back in the same order. Its very easy to strip the alloy spacer block that runs over the main bearing cap. If you do strip a thread, don't mess around, but a steel block...A few suppliers sell them.

James Paddock sell a nice timing cover bolt kit:

https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/timing-cover-bolt-kit-4

Best advice though, take your time.

[yorkshire_spam]

 

as Tim says, important to get the fixings correct 

[glang]

As said do the bottom bolt up really gently as it screws into the aluminium bridge piece behind. Unfortunately its the point that is most likely to leak☹️

[Clive]

Yes, helicoils are a great idea for the ali blocks at the front and back of the engine. I do mine as a matter of course when I have an engine apart.

[standardthread]

4 hours ago, Tim Bancroft said:

Can be fiddly locating the cover onto the engine as the tensioner jams against the timing chain, wrap some steel wire around the tensioner and pull it to the side, once in position, pull the wire out. 

 

I find it easier to remove the flux from a welding rod and bend the bottom 1" or so in to a right angle to rest against the tensioner. The other 11 or 12" gives you a long handle to pull.

Once the cover is nearly in place turn the rod through 90' and remove.

[Rutty]

I used a cable tie which once in place and most of the bolts loosely done up I then cut and pulled it out.

I also had to helicoil the alloy block.

Edited May 19, 2023 by Rutty

[yorkshire_spam]

@Rutty love the cable-tie idea! I'm nicking that one!

[Richard B]

Yes to helicoiling. I usually find that the flat surface of the aluminium block that is supposed to seal against the sump is kind S shaped if it has been installed for a while. Probably caused by people over-tightening the bolts to try and get a seal! Some time with Wet 'n Dry or machining is required.

Alternatively buy a replacement steel one.

[Kevin R]

Thanks for all of your advice so far - very helpful.  I have checked my donor timing cover and it has 'warped' slightly and would be difficult to achieve a decent seal so I am looking to have it re-machined in the hope that it will improve the fit.  The tensioner is only scuffed so I will reuse it and I will get a new set of fasteners as recommended. 👍

[standardthread]

26 minutes ago, Kevin R said:

Thanks for all of your advice so far - very helpful.  I have checked my donor timing cover and it has 'warped' slightly and would be difficult to achieve a decent seal so I am looking to have it re-machined in the hope that it will improve the fit.  The tensioner is only scuffed so I will reuse it and I will get a new set of fasteners as recommended. 👍

You can probably get most of the warp out of the cover by putting it over a length of timber and standing gently on either end to get it back flatish.

As for machining try draw filing, basically a file that rests on both side of the cover. pressed flat against it, and pulled towards you

[JohnD]

Like Yorkshire-Spam I will try that brilliant idea next time!   AND I will post it in Another Place, where the same Q had been asked!

Any more ideas, please, Rutty?

JOhn

Edited May 21, 2023 by JohnD

[Kevin R]

After all your previous advice and having confirmed that my donor timing cover was indeed warped,  my engineer nephew managed to fettle most of it successfully apart from the critical lower few inches around the crank pulley seal which risked leaving the metal too thin or perforated.

To be on the safe side aiming for a perfectly flat surface and a perfect seal, I applied a thin layer of metal putty then applied pressure until it set.   I then stuck 2 large sheets of emery paper to a sheet of glass with double-sided sticky tape rubbing the timing cover over this until perfectly flat - see photo.

I laid the cover face down on the glass and checked around the circumference with a strip of A4 paper and it grips evenly so hopefully should get a good seal.

Tomorrow I will remove the crank pulley 🤞and the old timing cover and what lies in store.

[Dannyb]

On 19/05/2023 at 13:26, yorkshire_spam said:

@Rutty love the cable-tie idea! I'm nicking that one!

This was a great idea which I used the other week when changing the cam. Problem was I have a duplex tensioner which when trying to pull the cable tie out it snapped off inside, so I had to start again. I used the strongest cable tie I had. 

Danny

[Rutty]

I should have patent my cable Tie idea. Then I could have sold you a cable tie at a tenner a time. 😉

[glang]

Of course it couldnt be called a cable tie but a chain tensioner retention system or CTRS for short. Then it also sounds like it needs to come with comprehensive instructions to make sure the CTRS ratchet lock doesnt get dragged in and caught up inside the cover on removal😁

[JohnD]

Kevin R, surely timing covers are available, used but not warped?   Better than even a well engineered bodge!

John

[Kevin R]

Perhaps, but when do you get the chance to pick and choose the best of say half a dozen when it would seem that all of the used originals end up warped.  

I wanted to use an original part and the 'well engineered bodge' has resulted in a few thou skim of very durable metal putty over 2-3 inches at one end and now the whole timing cover is perfectly flat.

[glang]

Yes nothing more satisfying than fixing something original! Now hope your pulley collar isnt worn where the seal runs on it as if grooved then you can either replace it☹️, move the seal inwards a little by making up a thick gasket or fit a speedy sleeve which also slightly increases the pulley collar diameter to help sealing....