Baldry1500 Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Hi, Having broken my Differential during 10 CR i am now under pressure to get repaired in the next 7 days as it's looking like my back up car will be required. I have the diff off the car and i cannot seem to remove the carrier bearings from the casing. Any tips for any stage greatly appreciated as i am in way over my head. I will update as i progress. Thanks James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt6s Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 SOOOO easy, stuff a bar in and pull. Laurence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldry1500 Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 Straight after i posted, I did just that! and hey presto i felt like a fool. Any hints and tips for later stages welcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldry1500 Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 Straight after i posted, I did just that! and hey presto i felt like a fool. Any hints and tips for later stages welcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Hi, there is a proper big Churchill tool for doing what youve just done and it would be quite handy for putting the carrier back into the casing. Im not sure how to do it otherwise as the bearings must be preloaded with those shims when reassembled.... What looks like the problem with the diff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldry1500 Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 Lost a thrust washer from sun gear. I must admit the reassembly is the bit that does concern me. Reading about backlash etc.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldry1500 Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 Lost a thrust washer from sun gear. I must admit the reassembly is the bit that does concern me. Reading about backlash etc.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Ive also got a diff in bits (fortunately a spare one) and think Im going to need to rig up some sort of studding and lever arrangement to 'spread' the casing a little to get the carrier back in. Sure therell be an expert along shortly to tell us how its done😳 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Are you replacing bearings? Or just the sun gear thrust washer? I managed to source branded (Timken) bearings to do mine. Setting the pinion pre-load on new bearings needs a method of measuring the torque required to turn the pinion/input flange in inch/lbs! I found a torque wrench on amazon. Preloading the carrier bearings and setting the backlash is a bit of a suck-it and see job if you don't have access to a bucket load of shims. I got about 5 or 6 thin shims from Moss-Europe and just set it as best I could with those and the originals. Something like this comes in handy squashing that stupid spacer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldry1500 Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 Hadn't got that far in thinking. To be honest i was so focused on thrust washer i hadn't considered the bearings. Having had a quick look the shims seem to be quite rare these days. WIll look at moss in a bit. Most of the day has been spent trying to drill out the pinion pin as it would not budge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Pinion pin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldry1500 Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 Number 10 on this diagram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Ahhh that thing. I found a nail almost the same diameter and cut the end flat and used that to drive the little beggar out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldry1500 Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 i was using my punch but it snapped in the damned thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldry1500 Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 i was using my punch but it snapped in the damned thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldry1500 Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 i was using my punch but it snapped in the damned thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt6s Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Quoted from glang- Hi, there is a proper big Churchill tool for doing what youve just done and it would be quite handy for putting the carrier back into the casing. Im not sure how to do it otherwise as the bearings must be preloaded with those shims when reassembled.... What looks like the problem with the diff? You do not need the Churchill tool to remove OR REFIT the diff unit to the casing. Laurence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 Come on Laurence dont tease, please tell us how to REFIT the diff unit in the casing without the Churchie? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldry1500 Posted April 14, 2018 Author Share Posted April 14, 2018 This guy seems to make it look easy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TezpSrSwxjA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 Quoted from Baldry1500- This guy seems to make it look easy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TezpSrSwxjA That's the video I followed. I found it was possible to actually get the carrier+bearing races back in without spreading the casing with too many shims. With some removed it wasn't a problem, just takes some jiggling to get it all in without losing a shim or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 Quoted from yorkshire_spam- I found it was possible to actually get the carrier+bearing races back in without spreading the casing with too many shims. With some removed it wasn't a problem, just takes some jiggling to get it all in without losing a shim or two. Gulp! But you need all the shims to give the correct bearing preload dont you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt6s Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 Quoted from glang- Come on Laurence dont tease, please tell us how to REFIT the diff unit in the casing without the Churchie? You slip the diff in at an angle. Side away from the crown first, with outer cage and shims positioned against the rollers the crown wheel side you use outer cage and shims as a ramp. It can be done real easy once you get the technique. Done this many many times. Try to fit the unit in straight you will need the Churchill. Laurence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 Thanks, sounds good though Im worried the shims might snag and get damaged. Does it need a tap or is hand pressure usually enough to push the carrier into place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt6s Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 Goes in alright with a tap from the shaft end of a hammer. I have never damaged a shim doing this but there is always a first time. Laurence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 Quoted from glang- Quoted from yorkshire_spam- I found it was possible to actually get the carrier+bearing races back in without spreading the casing with too many shims. With some removed it wasn't a problem, just takes some jiggling to get it all in without losing a shim or two. Gulp! But you need all the shims to give the correct bearing preload dont you? Sorry, didn't explain myself very well. What I meant was that it's possible to slide the carrier, races and shims all in together using the technique shown in the video and end up with too much pre-load (in my case once the caps were added it was almost locked solid!) By removing and re-arranging the shims (which I didn't have a wide selection of, just the originals and a load of 0.003" ones from moss) I was able to get the right pre-load AND the right lash in the mesh between the pinion and crownwheel. In the end this ended up being less total shim thickness than the original shims. I didn't mean I fitted it without shims, or that I lost some sliding it in and just left it like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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