m807ppp Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 How do you tighten up front wheel bearing, I've taken wheel off, and there seems to be a metal cap in centre of wheel, does this come off, I know on landrovers it comes off for access, but is it the same on spitfires, I've carefully tried to prise it off with no success, but is it meant too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Yes it is meant to prise off. What is underneath works completely differently from a Landrover though.You need to invest in a manual.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esxefi Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 yes it needs to come off.should be able to screw in a erm' screw and pull of with some molegrips.but they can be tight as they are a taper fit and some PO might have bashed it in proper. :-/ castellated nut is behind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Fawlty Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Here's a good link which shows how its done in picshttp://www.hemmings.com/hsx/stories/2011/06/01/hmn_tips1.htmlBaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 9724 wrote:Here's a good link which shows how its done in picshttp://www.hemmings.com/hsx/stories/2011/06/01/hmn_tips1.htmlBazWonderful idea.....but did I miss something when I blinked?......Like drifting out the bearing races? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 If all it needs is tightening, you can leave the caliper in place. Just prise off the cap, pull the split pin, tweak the nut a bit and reassemble.If you need to replace the bearings, then yes, as VR says, you need to drift out the races. I dug out an old one the other day and cleaned it up (for a Freecycler - complicated reasons but he wanted scrap bits of cars) and the only bit that's not serviceable is that outer race. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 There must be end float on these front hubs spec is 0..002" to 0.008"This equates to a light hand nip of the castle nut then undo 1 to 2 flats refit new pinthis will give about 1 to3 mm rock at the trye, 0.008 will give around 6mm rock thats all correct0.008 may give brake pad push back so stick to the lower end of the spec.do it tight with nonfloat and younwill quickly seize and weld the outer race to the stub axleand face ££££of repair Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cook1e Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Sometimes if the MOT tester is pinickety he'll fail or advise that there is too much play even when it's set up correctly especially if its a place that is used to modern cars with no play. If this is the case, on theday of your MOT, set it up with no play, get your MOT and then slacken it off to the correct setting as advised by Pete when you get home!I always take my classics to an MOT station that is Classic freindly where they understand it should have some play so there are no issues but have experienced problems at a normal nmodern MOT place. In fact once at one such place the MOT tester asked me where the bonnet release was as he couldn't find it under the dash or in the footwell!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 At a branch of a well-known major tyre/exhaust/MOT chain...MOT tester : This handbrake doesn't work.Us : It's a fly-off type. Press the button.MOT tester : You're not allowed them on road cars.Us : Yes, you are, and this one left the factory like that.MOT tester : No, you're not.Us : Why don't you check the tester's manual. It should say.MOT tester (after flipping through some paperwork) : I need to ring the DVLA, but they don't work weekendsUs : OK, we'll take it elsewhere.Later, at a small garage...Other MOT tester : He said what? What an idiot! Has he never been trained? Of course you're allowed original equipment! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 exactly if they dont understand floating taper bearing used in non front wheel drive, non cassette hubs then go elswheretightening will lead to early expensive disaster Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougBGT6 Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 Agree with Andy that's EXACTLY what I do. Tighten them up before the MOT slacken them off after. Had it fail once, despite being in spec, in the circumstances described! I have no problem prising the cap off, screwdriver under the lip and twist, then the other side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 to make this easy drill a hole and fit a rivnut , use a short set screw to blank it and use a longer one to drag the cap off by tightening against the end of the stub there again how often does one take them off !!!Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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