Swiss Tony Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Having had a few problems getting both heads off, and seen the info on a puller which bolts on and winds the heads off, does anyone have one that I could borrow.hire or buy?I am thinking of having one made if not.Swiss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Swiss,Have you got all the studs out? tried the rope trip?James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swiss Tony Posted May 31, 2012 Author Share Posted May 31, 2012 One of the problems I have is time, and rather than spend a whole day and still not succeed, I thought that device looked as if it would do the job in a fraction of the time, allowing me to get on with the next stage.None of the studs have shifted at all, and although I could weld nuts on the end, thats such a faff for me and being useless at welding, it just seemed like the easiest way.The engine turns, but sticks, probably something to do with the water that has sat in it for a while, and so I can see the rope trick being a lot of effort with dubious results.If I cant sort out a puller, I will probably take it somewhere and have it done for me, which is not my favourite choice.Swiss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikew Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Swiss_Tony wrote:Having had a few problems getting both heads off, and seen the info on a puller which bolts on and winds the heads off, does anyone have one that I could borrow.hire or buy?I am thinking of having one made if not.SwissTony,the SOC club have a few head pullers floating about, but I'd still soak with plus gas for a few weeks anyway - make some "catch tanks" round the top of the studs with rtv sealant or similar so you can leave a puddle of plus gas round the studs to save the need to keep reapplying it.I take it you used the 2 nut trick (one locked against the other) on top of the stud so that the nuts didn't rotate on the stud?mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Have you tried these? They have got most of my Stag head studs out.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stud-Extractor-Removal-Tool-4pc-Set-3-8-1-2-Drive-/261010958297?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cc57727d9Supplied by various companys, Sykes Pykavent, Snap-on etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swiss Tony Posted May 31, 2012 Author Share Posted May 31, 2012 Mike,I contacted my local SOC and they just referred me to a couple of garages that probably had the pullers, but wouldnt let them out of the garage.I saw one had gone on ebay a few weeks ago for about £70.To be honest, with the studs, I read so many horror stories describing how difficult it all was that I had a little go, and then thought I would try and get the right kit and do it properly rather than make a pigs ear of it.I will try the two nut job, if only so I can say I tried. I dont hold out much hope though, and part of me though I would be better with all the studs there so that the puller had an even spread of force across the head.I am very conscious that in the past I have tried doing things without the right tools, done it in a cack handed way and caused more damage than it was worth. I am now at a point where money is easier to find than time, and so although I have no intention of not doing as much as I can, I would rather buy or have the puller made, and then sell it on to someone else that could use it. If we all struggle with the job, it may be worthwhile having one made.Swiss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikew Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Tony,even with the puller you still need to extract either the bolts, or the studs, as both are at an angle to each other, and without one set removed the puller will not work.it is completely normal to use the 2 nut method, simply turn the 2 nuts against each other as tight as possible, this locks them on the stud, then using a ring spanner if possible turn the lower nut, the top one will stop it rotating on the stud.sometimes it helps to try tightening the stud first with the top nut - unless you are exceedingly unlucky some of the studs will come out.stud extractor tools can work, but will damage the threads.some of the triumph specialists sell an extractor tool (which is basically the 2 nut method) with extended flanges so it is easier to grip with spanners)if you really don't fancy the job a good motor engineers will do it for you, Enginuity, Wards and a few others have good, but expensive reputations - me I enjoy the challenge!good luckmike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swiss Tony Posted May 31, 2012 Author Share Posted May 31, 2012 I am off next week although have a list as long as your arm of DIY jobs to finish off, so I will have a go at soaking the studs with a resevoir for a few days, and try the two nut job.Is it worth buying the stud extractors if the 2 nuts fail?I assume I will fit new studs anyway, so dont mind damaging the threads.Last resort will be a motor engineer, but would prefer to be able to say I did it myself. I suspect they will be needed regardless for skimming and stuff anyway, so if I cant get anywhere they will just make more money out of me.Swiss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Having soaked them in Plus Gas (WD40 will NOT do) for a good long time and applied your two nuts, before trying to turn them, give them a couple of good firm thwacks on the end with a hammer (as if trying to hit them down into the engine. This helps break whatever corrosion seal is present. Works for me on the 6 cyl engines.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Swiss_Tony wrote:Is it worth buying the stud extractors if the 2 nuts fail?I assume I will fit new studs anyway, so dont mind damaging the threads.It was a Stag owner (professional mechanic) who got me onto those stud extractors. Make sure its that type though.and yes the old studs are a write off. I bought the S/S studs from E.J.Ward expensive but I thought worth trying. I had new plated steel studs stick after less than a year on the engine. :'( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swiss Tony Posted May 31, 2012 Author Share Posted May 31, 2012 Thanks for all your advice.Plan of action:Get some plusgas tomorrow and start soaking. Carry on through next week. End of the week try the 2 nut method, failing which buy the stud extractors.Having said that, the stud extractors arent expensive so maybe I will buy them anyway, and try both methods together. Worst case scenario I have an unused set of stud extractors! (Or 10 sheered off studs, 2 stuck cylinder heads and an empty tin of plusgas and bleeding knuckles)Swiss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StagNL Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Swiss, I have always used the two nut method regardless. It was always the first method I tried. Only the last time did I not get 3-4 of the studs out by hand, so I used an impact wrench on them and the studs, very slowly at first, all came out. No damage done to anything.Should you need plans to make a removal tool, some of us on the forum here have various plans stashed away on our hard drives.Julian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritemad Posted June 3, 2012 Share Posted June 3, 2012 Hi Tony - I removed mine without any kind of a puller - i undid the nuts and bolts in sequence and gradually then used a stud extractor to undo the studs and this was on an engine that hadn't seen work in over 5 years. Either it was just good luck or its the way to do it ! there are stud extracters available that look like ordinary sockets that use rollers to grip the threads of the studs and could be maybe easier to use on the stag engine due to space restictions and then there's the knurled cam variety (which i have) and it did some damage to the threads but not enough to have to replace the studs.I removed all but one stud on each head and then used the stud to support the head as i removed the head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted June 3, 2012 Share Posted June 3, 2012 2943 wrote: ! there are stud extracters available that look like ordinary sockets that use rollers to grip the threads of the studs and could be maybe easier to use on the stag engine due to space restictions and then there's the knurled cam variety (which i have) and it did some damage to the threads but not enough to have to replace the studs.The socket style with rollers is the type I recommended above. The knurled type is not as good and requires more access. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john 215 Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 Hi,Worked at a BL main dealer, we used the original version of this tool - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Stag-TR7-Dolomite-head-stud-extractor-tool-/350569026165?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item519f8ad275effectivley the two nut methodUnfortunatley didnt always work :( Can only echoe what others have said lubricate for at two weeks constantly. welding the nuts on can work as put heat into the studCheers John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john 215 Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 Hi,Worked at a BL main dealer, we used the original version of this tool - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Stag-TR7-Dolomite-head-stud-extractor-tool-/350569026165?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item519f8ad275effectivley the two nut methodUnfortunatley didnt always work :( Can only echoe what others have said lubricate for at two weeks constantly. welding the nuts on can work as put heat into the studCheers John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilco Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 The 2 nut and windy gun method worked for me Cut some lengths of conduit and siliconed onto the head - Filled with plusgas and left well alone to do other jobs for a few weeks before attempting again. Definately a job to keep calm and take your time with :) :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beans Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 If the two nut method doesn't work, welding a nut to the studs might do the trick.The heat put into the studs should free them.At the moment trying to get a head of a friends Dolomite.After two months of gentle (two nut, lots of penetrating oil and impact wrench) approach still no result :o Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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