Pete Lewis Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 Bill if you can get a small gap from some limited lift , its make a sleeve of card to protect the faces and cut the stud with a hacksaw blade the remaining screwed slug will probalbly unscrew by fingers out of the block but it will take seven bells to punch or press the stud out of the head good luck Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 thescrapman wrote:Have you got to the point where you wished you had never started but a stubborn streak got to you and you refused to be beaten, and then wasted 2 weeks on it??:)That's pretty much it now. To be honest, when I first hit problems with the studs, I was cool about it. No point rushing in, so prolonged soaking with acid and oil, and a week later the head was coaxed off. But now this one stud is putting up such a fight I'm really wishing I'd just moved the car on while it had a running engine!Peter - the stud has become shorter with the last two attempts at welding to it, breaking off a little more each time. There's no longer enough standing proud of the block to cut a slot. There's no way it will unscrew in any case, it's just too strongly bonded to the block.The worst thing about all this is that while it was a decent running engine until one cylinder lost compression, now I'm inside I can see the rough and ready approach taken the last time the head was removed. I've made a start on drilling, but now rained off. More tomorrow I hope, Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 heraldcoupe wrote:- the stud has become shorter with the last two attempts at welding to it, breaking off a little more each time. Bill, I've heard of re-inventing the wheel; but it sounds like you are trying to do 'electro-spark erroding' with a MIG ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 As Steeve said, but, if you can, dont use a tapered stud extractor, all they doo is snap, and if they dont snap, they squash the stud side ways,so making it tightter.a trick ive used lots o times is to drill out, as bigg as you can get, to the dimesions of a Star drive inner flutes, or slightly bigger, the with a good dose of FREEZE spray, fill the hole with it, and then wack the star drive in, and hope fully it will come out.NOTE, tighten first, then unwind, , then tighten,unwind, wurk it loose.good luck Marcus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 Marcus, I really like that idea!I wouldn't dare use a conventional stud extractor, I'm 99% certain it will give up before the stud moves, and I don't intend to drill out one of those!SO I have a plan for tomorrow,Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Have you put the head back on to act as a drilling guide?Using a drill that is the same size as the drilling in the head to drill a centre in the broken stud and then drilling with a smaller drill and centering in the head drilling helps keep things square.Turning up a steel tube, OD to fit head drilling and ID to match a suitable drill is another, safer approach if facilities are at hand.Maybe you have used this approach already.With the luck you have had so far Bill, Helicoiling will be the next step. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Never known one refuse to unscrew from the block - definitely unlucky on this one! But you knew that......Maybe a couple of kettlefuls of hot water in the water jacket - then the freeze spray?Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 It's out!Drilling failed, as the welding had hardened the stud so regular bits wouldn't touch it. I'd drilled a pilot hole before welding, so I could try hammering in a star bit, however not one as big as I would like. No chance, it just chewed up.So back out with the welder, blasted a large bead of weld into the pilot hole and built up a head, then sprayed with freezer spray, rather than letting it cool naturally. This was counter intuitive as I was wary of making the weld brittle, but it had been brittle enough before, so how much worse could it get? With mole grips applied to the freshly cooled weld, I tried tightening slightly, and it moved! So a minute later, it was out, and I'd reached the point where I should have been two weeks ago.I doubt I'll get the rest cleaned up and finished this evening, but I should be able to complete it on Sunday. Tomorrow's a day off, keeping well away from anything car related......Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Well done Bill, see you said ,... tightenened it fust... I have no idea as to why this works, but it does.and here was you going to chuk the towel in,and sell it, :-/ :-/ ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 796 wrote:and here was you going to chuk the towel in,and sell it, :-/ :-/ ;)That's the irony though, there's a Herald coming on-stream to take this one's place shortly. It's going to need a fair bit of bodywork before next year's MOT, so it's not staying long term in any case. Seemed sensible to fix the 'simple' compression issue on one cylinder while it was in use. Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 796 wrote:Well done Bill, see you said ,... tightenened it fust... I have no idea as to why this works, but it does.and here was you going to chuk the towel in,and sell it, :-/ :-/ ;)You know, that is quite a question! I shall hit my Chief Engineer with that one tomorrow, see if he knows!!Interesting conundrums all round it seems, today we had a minor issue of a 3mm allen key head (the round type that are supposed to work at an angle) snap off in the head of a stud. We eventually drilled it out, but it did hold up a bearing replacement for several hours whilst we fought it!! (For future reference, the stud was holding a pulley onto a shaft with a woodruff key. If anyone ever has this issue, then drilling the head out also ruins the allen socket shape! We resorted to a large hammer and a new woodruff key to get the pulley off!!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 Good to hear of your success Bill.Was wondering what welder you used as the hardening and brittleness sounds like MIG.This would also not give the desired heat penetration into the stud that stick or oxy would.Just interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted July 23, 2011 Author Share Posted July 23, 2011 Yes, MIG welder, all that's available to me, other than arc. I find arc welding too imprecise, at least it is when I'm doing it!My 'welding consultant' favours TIG for this kind of work, but that wasn't an option which was available to me.Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 Freezer spray - a much underrated substanceI should be right up there in the pantheon of engineering must haves with duct tape and the wire coat hanger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spunkymonkey Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 Only just saw this (always late to the party!) and glad it's sorted now. For future reference, if you have an arc welder you really need one of these:More heat than you can shake a big stick-welder at (apparently up to about 5000 degrees!) and ideal for freeing nuts, bolts, ball-joints (including dropping them out of their tapers without a separator), burning off paint & underseal and just about anything else you might use an oxy torch for. Sadly, they're not that easy to find any more but search EBay for "carbon arc torch" and there's usually some floating about ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted July 23, 2011 Author Share Posted July 23, 2011 All back together now and running OK-ish. Still a bit lumpy but not overheating.Off to a festival now, see how we get on.....Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Thanks Bill.TIG really would be good, as similar heat soak to Oxy, but not many of us would have access to it.Good to hear its all together now. There is a certain satisfaction in beating something that is trying to beat us. Sort of makes up for the time lost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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