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Usually worst on the what is the bottom when fitted to the car.  If you can catch a fingernail on the wear lip formed there, you'll probably need a new one.  Not especially expensive.  The damage is caused by overtightened bearings, usually due to an ignorant younger MoT man, used to modern bearings, who doesn't appreciate that a little wheel rock is correct on these cars.

Nick

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5927 wrote:
But how much is too much ?? I can feel a small dip with my finger tips.


Lets put it this way.
It depends on how much driving you do etc
As Nick says and if I could feel " a small lip" then I personally would change it.........especially if you have the vertical link off
Its not a long job, in fact waiting for the thing to come through the post is the longest
Remove the nut
Just place the vertical link across two hard surfaces eg paving blocks, with the stub axle pointing down
With one almight smack from a club/sledge hammer or the like and it will drop out

PS dont just tickle it whack it

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5927 wrote:
Thanks, I suppose I may as well get new ones, I seem to be renewing everything else  ;D what seemed like a nice little car is turning into a money pit, but hey what else is money for if not to be spent !!


Oh good, so you will be on the Autosolo, The Ten Countries,the HCR etc etc ;)

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The blueish bit isn't where the bearing sits anyway.  Further in towards the vertical link.  More important question may be what does the top of the threaded section (and the shoulder above it) of the VL look like...... they do break just there.  Rust pitting etc are bad news.

Nick

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490 wrote:


Thats the EASY part.. but getting it back in??? Tips from those in the know?



When Ive done mine ,they always go in ,held by the interference fit and with the castle nut on a slight tap with a copper/soft mallet and the nyloc on the stub justs tightens up
Once all reassembled,including wheel back on the ground,just give it another tweak  

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Hi, if you buy new ones check the length of them carefully! I was recently sold a pair where the hole for the cotter pin sat 4mm further out than a factory axle. Looking around the net these badly made axles seem to be common stuff from several suppliers. Can be bodged with more washers but I sent them back. Anyone know any part supplier that sell proper axles?
Cheers!

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3182 wrote:
Hi, if you buy new ones check the length of them carefully! I was recently sold a pair where the hole for the cotter pin sat 4mm further out than a factory axle. Looking around the net these badly made axles seem to be common stuff from several suppliers. Can be bodged with more washers but I sent them back. Anyone know any part supplier that sell proper axles?
Cheers!


Aha!! This was the problem with the last one I tried, it sat too far out and I assumed I hadn't positioned it correctly. I didn't want to use force but gave up eventually in favour of another spare I had. It's never been used but is lying in the garage awaiting the day when I could work up the patience to try it again... maybe now I know it wasn't just me.... but that's why I asked about refitting. Thanks!

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490 wrote:


Aha!! This was the problem with the last one I tried, it sat too far out and I assumed I hadn't positioned it correctly. I didn't want to use force but gave up eventually in favour of another spare I had. It's never been used but is lying in the garage awaiting the day when I could work up the patience to try it again... maybe now I know it wasn't just me.... but that's why I asked about refitting. Thanks!



Davemate could tell you a story about those stub axles with the hole in the wrong place...

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