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Brake Drums Wont Fit


Silvester

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Having fitted new everything to the rear drums on my Vitesse Mk1 2 litre, I now find the drum won't go back on. I've backed the adjusters right off still no joy. There is a very slight lip on the drum, but before I invest in new drums, is there anything else I can try? 

Al thoughts appreciated 

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Quoted from Silvester-

Having fitted new everything to the rear drums on my Vitesse Mk1 2 litre, I now find the drum won't go back on. I've backed the adjusters right off still no joy. There is a very slight lip on the drum, but before I invest in new drums, is there anything else I can try? 

Al thoughts appreciated 

 

Have you fitted new adjusters? If so were they from paddocks?

Dont know if this will appear??? Cant make any sense of forum at the moment. Will keep trying

 

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you definitely dont need new drums, something must be wrong. Is everything assembled correctly with the slave cylinders and handbrake operators returned to their zero positions? Also even though you have wound off the adjuster screws that doesnt guarantee that the sliders either side that they move have returned. They could be stuck and need lubing to free em off....

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There was a post on here recently (now probably lost) about a very similar problem to yours and I think the only solution in the end was to shamfer the ends of the shoes. I think maybe some of the parts supplied now dont always match the originals so if youve doubled checked all the installation is correct it might come down to doing that....

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If you've changed the cylinders and still have the old cylinders handy it's worth squeezing the piston fully into the cylinder and measuring the width from the fixed face to the front of the piston and comparing that with the new one..... pattern replacements are not always the same and if the minimum size of the new one is significantly more than the old one you are never going to get the drums on.

 

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Quoted from glang-

There was a post on here recently (now probably lost) about a very similar problem to yours and I think the only solution in the end was to shamfer the ends of the shoes. I think maybe some of the parts supplied now dont always match the originals so if youve doubled checked all the installation is correct it might come down to doing that....

I had this problem after replacement of the adjusters. The new ones are bigger than the originals (copy/generic part). I had to grind a couple of mm (thickness of a Sharpie pen) from the very end of both shoes to allow them to close up enough. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Braved the weather and spent the afternoon working to sort this out both the adjusters (new ones fitted) and disconnecting the handbrake helped and the drums are on!  However, there is something odd with the handbrake cable:

 

Passenger side looks like the workshop manual suggests but the driver side has two springs and two metal clevis pieces joined to create the link to the back of the drum brake set up. Having stipped down both sides because there seemed to be some available adjustment it seems it is not enough and without an extra clevis and spring the cable is too short, very odd. Amongst my spares, I have a spare cable but unless I'm missing some easy fix, I can't easily get the old cable out because the threads at both ends won't pass through the u shaped piece hidden behind the prop.

I'm thinking about reinstating the old double clevis / spring fix (after all my spare one could also be short) but before I do any thoughts?

 

Many thanks guys

 

 

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Braved the weather and spent the afternoon working to sort this out both the adjusters (new ones fitted) and disconnecting the handbrake helped and the drums are on!  However, there is something odd with the handbrake cable:

 

Passenger side looks like the workshop manual suggests but the driver side has two springs and two metal clevis pieces joined to create the link to the back of the drum brake set up. Having stipped down both sides because there seemed to be some available adjustment it seems it is not enough and without an extra clevis and spring the cable is too short, very odd. Amongst my spares, I have a spare cable but unless I'm missing some easy fix, I can't easily get the old cable out because the threads at both ends won't pass through the u shaped piece hidden behind the prop.

I'm thinking about reinstating the old double clevis / spring fix (after all my spare one could also be short) but before I do any thoughts?

 

Many thanks guys

 

 

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Braved the weather and spent the afternoon working to sort this out both the adjusters (new ones fitted) and disconnecting the handbrake helped and the drums are on!  However, there is something odd with the handbrake cable:

 

Passenger side looks like the workshop manual suggests but the driver side has two springs and two metal clevis pieces joined to create the link to the back of the drum brake set up. Having stipped down both sides because there seemed to be some available adjustment it seems it is not enough and without an extra clevis and spring the cable is too short, very odd. Amongst my spares, I have a spare cable but unless I'm missing some easy fix, I can't easily get the old cable out because the threads at both ends won't pass through the u shaped piece hidden behind the prop.

I'm thinking about reinstating the old double clevis / spring fix (after all my spare one could also be short) but before I do any thoughts?

 

Many thanks guys

 

 

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The slight lip on the drum you are referring to is normal wear - sometimes it can be quite a lip and if this is the case check the thickness of the drum in case it is worn too thin (spec. for limits in some Manuals).

Usually when there is only a little wear and a small lip you can be lucky and the shoes still pops over the lip but sometime you can have the bad luck as you have of it stopping the drum sliding on.

Another problem you can find with the lip is that it can catch on the new shoes and you get a rubbing sound that after a while goes as the edge of the shoes rub down.

If there is difficulty sliding the drums on I disc down the ridge so that the drum inner surface is smooth which also means that the rubbing problem is prevented.

Or if you can slide the drum on OK and you are getting rubbing, a coarse file or 'sanding' paper can be used to round off the edge of the lining.

 

MUT

 

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