Vitesseman Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 I tried the Vitesse today and its started up fine ....outside under a cover...after being laid up since July.However the clutch is stuck on....Pedal works and slave cylinder is working. Warmed the engine/box for ½ hour.Tried starting in gear back and forth.I dont have much room...I can get the drivers door open.. due to other none working car in the way.Any suggestions, pleaseS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 The standard way to free a clutch is to drive it with the clutch down. If you don't have room to rocket up and down the road scattering dogs, chickens and pensioners, the only alternative I can think of is to pull the gearbox and free the clutch from the flywheel by hand. Not nearly as much fun :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vitesseman Posted January 2, 2013 Author Share Posted January 2, 2013 I was hoping I could do it without taking the 'box out. Last time it did this it freed after warming the engine for a while. The carpets are out and the 'box cover is loose so its not too big a deal.I usually leave the clutch down with a lump of wood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Put the back end on axle stands. Start up with it in 2nd gear.Let the wheels spin up, clutch down then jab the brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Why 2nd gear Ferny?4th would give the brakes a better effect but does 2nd have a particular advantage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 That's just how I did it so just repeating what worked for me. Logic said to me it'd be safer and probably easier to start the car than anything higher and more useful than 1st. Oh, and I did blip the throttle just before I jabbed the brakes to spin it a faction faster.Also keep in mind I'd just pulled the car out of the hedge by hand with a rear brake stuck on without realising so I'm not necessarily the safest and smartest. Oh, and 2000 are fucking heavy! ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 I would let the engine get good and warm before doing anything else, the heat seems to help free a clutch. Possibly during that time it may be worth using a bit of wood to keep the clutch pedal down, taking the pressure off the clutch too. Then like ferny, I would jack up and then in gear just keep blipping the throttle. A bit more gentle than stamping on the brakes. If you wish the other method is to try starting the car in gear with foot on clutch and brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
307e Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 The 'old Ford' method worked every time. Needs two people. Position the car with a decent straight distance in front of it. Brakes must be good. Jack the car up on a trolley jack until the rear wheels just clear the ground. One person sits in the drivers seat, starts the engine with the clutch depressed and 2nd gear engaged. Gently raise the engine speed to about 1500 revs. On cue quickly turn off the ignition as the other drops the jack and the clutch will free instantly.Always worked..............(dance)Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 I've done this as Clive says — foot on brakes and clutch and then use the starter motor to free it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vitesseman Posted January 6, 2013 Author Share Posted January 6, 2013 My problem with all this is that the car has no doors/roof/bonnet etc and I have about two feet in front and behind. I have tried jacking a back wheel and pulling on the handbrake and warmed the engine fully. Also tried cranking the engine with brakes on both in revers and forward.The gearbox cover is already removed and I can see the slave cylinder pushing the mechanism forwards. Would brake cleaner be of any use here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Not sure about brake cleaner, but I guess it couldn't hurt. If you jack up both wheels, run it with the clutch depressed and stab the throttle, the shock might free the clutch. Or not. Chock the front wheels and it shouldn't move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vitesseman Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 I have had no success with all this. To remove the gearbox do I really need to remove the extension/lever etc or should it come out with these attached, please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 V'man,A rather safer option is to push start it, then drive around with your foot on the clutch.Obviously somewhere safe, as the only way to stop is to grab it out of gear or brake to stall.The clutch'll give eventually, and in a rather safer way than with it up on stands.John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vitesseman Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 Gearbox is out (was difficult to desperate from engine) and splines seem a little rusty.Was considering just cleaning up and refitting without removing the driven plate cos I think it was just the splines that was the problem. Should they be grease to prevent this happening again? With cop payslip maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 I think you will find it is the driven plate stuck to the flywheel. Best separate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spider Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 junkuser wrote:I think you will find it is the driven plate stuck to the flywheel. Best separate. +1 More likely to be the driven plate stuck to flywheel. You will want to clean up the clutch plate and the flywheel also as they will have rust on them. Besides how pis**d off are you going to be when you refit the gearbox get it all lined up and bolted in only to find it was the clutch plate that was at fault? (verymad)(verymad)(dissappointed). I have the same problem with my MK1 2000 but that has no brakes (brake pipes rusty and holed) so have to fix them before I try freeing off the clutch plate by the methods mentioned above as gearbox removal is a little more involved than from a small chassis Triumph. :-/ Mind you it could be the excuse I need to change the engine for the 2.5 one I have waiting to go in. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 It won't be anything over than the friction material sticking to the flywheel. Think of it as one big brake disc and how often they can stick on when the car has been sitting a while. Same principle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vitesseman Posted January 9, 2013 Author Share Posted January 9, 2013 Would it be an idea to lightly grease the splines?I will remove the plate, was just worried about alignment, haven't do a clutch for 15 years (this one) and have to align it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Hammond Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Don't grease the splines, there is no point and some grease may find its way into the clutch causing it to slip. You need a clutch alignment tool, either buy a universal one such as a Sykes Pickavant one or make one using some wooden dowling.M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Guilty admission time - I've never used anything other than my eye to centre a clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jezmond Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 I've not used an alignment tool either and have never had a problem. I always thought they were a waste of money. Align by eye and jiggle till it goes in (no sniggering kids) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Hammond Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 My eye ain't that good and a Vitesse gearbox with an overdrive hanging on the back whilst your crouched down under the dash is a big old lump to just jiggle into place..... An alignment tool will save time and a new clutch plate when you've got it wrong and broken the centre out of it. Ask me how I know.... ;)M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Two tips for re-assembly:1/ Replace two of the studs that sit in the block and engage with the top of the bell housing, with lengths of threaded rod, up to 6" long. These are NOT to hang the weight of the bell/box/O-drive on, but to aid lining it up with the clutch.2/ Make up a tool to help you jiggle the output shaft. With the 'box in gear, this will turn the input shaft and help get the splines engaged with the clutch plate. Tool can be just a piece of waste sheet, with two bolts in it to fit the blot holes in the output flange and the centre cutaway to clear the centre nut. See: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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