Jonny-Jimbo Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Hi all,As some of you may have seen from over on the big saloon section of the forum I'm doing some work on my 2.5. The reason I laid the car up in the first place was that the clutch was slipping really badly when overtaking, even from around 30mph or so. I assumed that the clutch had somehow got affected by oil, from maybe a failed oil seal etc.I removed the box today, but the clutch appears to be completely dry.Is there anything else that would give this 'mid accelleration' type of clutch slip. Pulling away from junctions etc was okay, so initially I discounted a worn clutch plate.Is it possible the issue is actually in the overdrive? However, when doing this driving the overdrive was not active anyway due to an electrical fault, with the entire set up neutralised.Should I proceed anyway with fitting a new clutch and seeing if it makes a difference, or should I be looking elsewhere.As an example, when doing 30 - 40mph and putting my foot down, the speedo would shoot round to about 60mph or more, with associated increase in engine speed, but no actual accelleration.Thanks for any advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 "when doing 30 - 40mph and putting my foot down, the speedo would shoot round to about 60mph or more, with associated increase in engine speed, but no actual accelleration."As the drive to a mechanical speedo should come off after the overdrive, the slip would appear not to be occurring in the clutch or overdrive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 Maybe I have miss remembered as I think I last used the car in February, and maybe it was just the engine speed that was wrong, not the road speed.Also, where else would this occur? A problem with the differential? It's not as if a 2.5 on carbs with a TR5 cam is strong enough to spin the tyres at that speed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy thompson Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Clutch doesn't need to be oily to slip - is there evidence of slip - blueing of the pressure plate or flywheel?You may have a weak cover +/- worn plate. 2000spec Laycock plates are prone to slip in torquey 2.5's.I certainly wouldn't put the same cover and and plate back in. Plus I would get the sprag clutch (one way clutch) in the overdrive checked Slip is usually way more noticeable in top gear btw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StagNL Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 What are the engine crankshaft thrust bearings like? I had similar symptoms with an endfloat of 2-3mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Being politic in first reply JJ. Some folks don't like being told their statements don't add up.Some after market clutch sets, sold as suitable for the application, tend to slip with minimal wear. As Andy said, clutch slip most likely in top as you can apply maximum available power against maximum load and ruling out overdrive problems essential. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Jimbo, as Malc and Andy have said, if it aint the plate,or cover at falt, then its the OD.But the come clutch / s are a culprit. they cost about 80£ to get re lined.cause, wear,n tear, some twerp bunged an additive in, or very very dirty oil.BUT may also be pressure related, bunged up filters. but if this the case, then it generally will either not come on,or take a very long time to come on.M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 junkuser wrote:"when doing 30 - 40mph and putting my foot down, the speedo would shoot round to about 60mph or more, with associated increase in engine speed, but no actual accelleration."As the drive to a mechanical speedo should come off after the overdrive, the slip would appear not to be occurring in the clutch or overdrive.If you really do turn out to be spinning your tyres up at 40mph in 4th can I be first in line for the engine after you exit through a hedge backwards.... :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Right I think I'll reply in order;Andy: I am yet to remove the pressure plate and flywheel (or at least get them into the daylight rather than the dingy hole that is a pit! I will get a better idea then won't I. I will consider having the box and OD checked over before RBRR - as Mick Papworth is just down the road it makes sense.StagNL: The engine is relatively recently built by a local Triumph spcialist, but I will check the end float on the crank if I can do it by hand.Junkuser: Your replay is valid, I was really writing my thought process, to make sure myself that it all added up! The 'clutch slip' was always felt in top gear when going round the Coventry ring road. There are many times when you need to find an extra 20 - 30mph to make a junction! As I said, I wasn't using Overdrive at the time at all, but before the electrical fault the overdrive was fine.GT6 M: The overdrive fired in straight away when needed, and was quite a strong kick. When I drained the gearbox the oil was pretty clear, with minimal crap on the magnetic plug - not the usual christmas tree affair I have seen on some!Colin: If it turns out I do have the torquiest Triumph 6 ever then I shall leave it to you in my will :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Jonny sorry to high jack, Do you still want the roof/have you found one to swap ?If you no longer want it I'll offer it to the next person on the waiting list !I have sent you two pm's, I know you was having trouble with pm's Hence this high jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted August 23, 2012 Author Share Posted August 23, 2012 Right, I have now got the clutch and flywheel into the cold light of day and it is a bit of a state. I have taken photos, but my uploader from my phone is playing up.Basically, the flywheel side is orange, blue and black, with the clutch worn right into the rivets. Luckily the flywheel itself is not worn at all. The pressure plate side is black. The pressure plate itself is scored and blued throughout. The whole thing STINKS or burned clutch.My original thought of a clutch change seems to be up there.I'll get on with ordering one once I have worked out where to get one from. Chris Witor isn't the cheapest, but they seem to be good quality. I'm sceptical of ebay 'Borg and Beck quality' clutches for £50.Rimmers do the clutch alignment tool for a few quid... Decisions decisions.Davemate, I'll PM you about the roof, so sorry - my final year at Uni really got in the way of life and Triumphing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 If you want a decent used clutch, I have a proper B+B one here that was in my vitesse for a few years, but very little wear. Yours for postage.Otherwise I would see if you can get a NoS ie old b+b or even laycock (may be expensive that last suggestion) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 Was the friction plate in back to front??That can give lots of slipping, well it certaainly did on a spitfire.The plate inner just started to touch the flywheel so the springs could not clamp it tightky enough, but didn't start for a few thousand miles.Then got worse and worse.Luckily the engine was missing about 50bhp so it didn't matter too much!CheersColin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 Thanks Clive, but I've just ordered one from Chris Witor, as I had loads of other bits I needed to order too. It's amazing how things add up when you're browsing a website and decide you need more than you thought!Colin, the clutch was in correctly, it just appears to be very worn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 Jonny, No problem we all have busy times.I have replyed to your email.I would agree with your findings ---clutch is knackered !!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 Down to rivets = worn out. Mystery solved.I got a new LUK clutch from my local motor factor for £ 54. Seems to work fine.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 I'm glad it was this simple, unfortunately I now can't get the flywheel refitted as the threads are damaged on the bolts. I've run a 7/16th UNF tap down the holes in the crank, and although notchy, the tap did go in okay. I guess the damage happens when you put 90lb ft into them or whatever the fitting is.Out of interest, should they be Loctited into place? I guess so, but I do have a calibrated Sykes-Picavant torque wrench which should do them right (tested at uni, is correct to 3 - 5% depending on loads). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Jonny_Jimbo1181845366 wrote:Out of interest, should they be Loctited into place? I guess so, but I do have a calibrated Sykes-Picavant torque wrench which should do them right (tested at uni, is correct to 3 - 5% depending on loads).I just do them up FT (fairly tight) 8)with a torque bar.Maybe a call to Mr Witor for some new bolts.I'm surprised that clutch has gone already, I would have thought that Alex would have put a new clutch in when the engine was built. It might be the pressure plate was too weak for the engine? :-/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Nick_Jones wrote:Down to rivets = worn out. Mystery solved.I got a new LUK clutch from my local motor factor for £ 54. Seems to work fine.NickThe centre of my LuK clutch went wobbly. :-/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Richard; Yes, I believe that Alex either put in a new clutch or a good s/h one - I can't remember what he told me. I bought a new Borg and Beck pressure plate from CW, along with a driven plate, new fitting kit etc.I got replacement flywheel bolts from Canleys in the end, as they're a minutes drive down the road, so I can finish the job this weekend all being well.Another thing I forgot to ask - with the cable disconnected, will the speedo drive leak oil - therefore, can I refill the gearbox with oil 'off the car' rather than trying to get a pipe in the hole etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 So long as the pinnion is stlll in place there should be no oil leak.The pinion casing has an O ring (which can be the source of a minor drip, drip on the drive). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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