Antonnick Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 When I did my LHD conversion, I got a new steering rack. These are now sealed units requireing no maintenance any more ( quote-unquote) After having the front wheels professionally aligned I drove around for a bit but the steering feel is very tight. So I undid a gaitor and smeared some more LM grease on to the rack. Hopefully over time this will loosen up a bit. When the front of the car is jacked up, the steering seems to move quite freely. At the moment when the wheels are on the ground I need to be strong. Could there be another reason other than lubrication? Before the conversion, all was fine.....and I have a spare RHD steering rack left over.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bitumen Boy Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 I exchanged a worn steering rack a few years ago and found the inner trackrod ends had been assembled with no grease and much too tight. They would have worn rapidly in that condition and I can't help thinking that might have been the intention. I altered the number of shims - luckily I'd nicked all that were in the old rack before taking it for the exchange - and greased the joints well, and that sorted it nicely. Grease won't really work its way into these joints in use so do have a look. Really, I wanted to recon my old rack at home, but none of the usual suspects would sell me the parts either at all or for a sensible price. Cynical old me thinks it's because they want to sell more recon racks... I'm skeptical of the idea of a "sealed maintenance free" steering rack for a Herald, I'd be interested to hear where you got it from. I suspect it means nothing more than simply removing the usual grease nipple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 Did the steering feel "tight" before the wheel alignment? If not, perhaps it's more to do with the geometry. I've certainly noticed big changes in steering feel resulting from fairly small changes to tracking / camber / caster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted July 25, 2018 Author Share Posted July 25, 2018 I got the rack from Rimmers. They do a really good delivery service to here. I always get stuff in 3 days eg, order Monday, arrive Wednesday. The new rack (not reconditioned) had "Made in Argentina" labelled on the plastic bag. The geometry. The old rack as far as I remember on the RHS felt normal. There were so many other problems then , clutch travel, brakes, etc I hardly noticed. After the new rack was installed though, I only had to drive about 300 m to the workshop to get the front wheels properly aligned so that was no test. The inner track rod ends - now that is a possibility. It is no problem to remove the clip on the gaitors to check/ grease them up. Thanks for the tip. Do that tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 I think Robs suggestion is more likely to be the cause of the heaviness as if the steering is ok jacked up I cant see how just lowering the car on to the ground will make it stiffer than normal. Any problems in the rack and pinion or ball joints should be present when off the ground and arent going to suddenly show up when driving. You could ask the alignment company what settings they used and check to see if they were correct...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 I also agree with Rob. For future reference, Chris Witor sells the parts usually needed to recondition the racks. These are the same for big saloon, small chassis and also Dolomite. Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bitumen Boy Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 Brand new steering racks that fit Heralds made in Argentina? That's interesting, I wonder what they're really made for. Just a thought, but what tyre pressures are you running? People have been caught out before now using pressures that were right for OE crossply tyres but don't suit modern radials. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 26, 2018 Share Posted July 26, 2018 apart from the inboard sphericals which ive always found are always shimmed there is athe pre load on the idler gear this may need a shim adding if its been set too tight easy test unscrew the big nut under the greaser a fraction see if it easier . Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted July 27, 2018 Author Share Posted July 27, 2018 I have now done a combination of all suggestions except the shimming which I do not understand anyway. 🙁 Removed each gaitor and greased the inner ball joint - just smeared it on - LM grease. I then ckecked the tyes which needed only a small amount of air to bring up to radial pressure. A macho friend suggested that the outer ball joints, whne new can also be a bit stiff. Nothing you can do as they have no grease nipple. Last evening I made a good round trip of about 100km and perhaps the feel to the steering is indeed getting better - or I have developed stronger arm muscles? At least it no longar seems to stick at neutral. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted July 27, 2018 Author Share Posted July 27, 2018 Such a wonderful evening to be driving in a cabriolet in a Naturpark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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