Nick Jones Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 From the TR Register forum but equally relevant hereSeems there is a batch of incorrectly machined solid rack clamps on the market which don't grip the rack properly. A major safety hazard.http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/55439-safety-warning/Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hogie Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 If you think you may be affected there is a simple check - make sure there is a small gap (1 or 2mm) between what would be the mating faces.This ensures that the clamps are acting on the rack and not just tight within themselves.Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 Quoted from Hogie If you think you may be affected there is a simple check - make sure there is a small gap (1 or 2mm) between what would be the mating faces.This ensures that the clamps are acting on the rack and not just tight within themselves.Roger Just to add that this can sometimes be misleading and you need to look at the gap on both mating faces as the top section doesn't always sit flat. In an ideal world you would have, say, 1mm both sides, but in the real world you may have nothing one side and 2mm the other. Either of these is ok, but if you have no gap either side then it needs further investigation.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 I understand direct ie no rubber slop advantage of solid mounts, the issue needs to be addressed by the sellers for sure.Dont know if it works for rubber mounts but found this method:You will notice that when you turn the wheels to the right, the rack gets pushed to the left, and vice-versa (a side to side motion).Take advantage of this motion by turning your wheels all the way to the right before undoing anything, and then replace the rubber mount that is not being pressured. Before tightening the U-bolts, turn the wheel to the oppisite lock in order to apply pressure to the newly installed mount. Tighten the U-bolts. Now do the same for the other side. It worked great!http://vintagetriumphregister.org/tr6-steering-rack/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeks Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 Biggest problem I ever had with this was when I got home from Rimmers to find they'd put Steering Rack Gaiters instead of clamps in my bag!!!!... try as I might those gaiters just wouldn't do the job 🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 The early Heralds had solid aluminium mounts (Part No. 122553) but they had a dowel that went into a hole in the rack tube to locate them.(Triumph Herald spare parts catalogue second edition. "Triumph Motor Co (1945) limited") Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted February 6, 2016 Author Share Posted February 6, 2016 Quoted from junkuser The early Heralds had solid aluminium mounts (Part No. 122553) but they had a dowel that went into a hole in the rack tube to locate them.(Triumph Herald spare parts catalogue second edition. "Triumph Motor Co (1945) limited") This is true. They are also cast and split if the U bolts are over-tightened 😲.Suspect that the original clamps with polybushes are the best technical solution!Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt6s Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 Quoted from Nick Jones This is true. They are also cast and split if the U bolts are over-tightened 😲.Suspect that the original clamps with polybushes are the best technical solution!Nick WELDER !Laurence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted February 6, 2016 Author Share Posted February 6, 2016 You weld the rack to the chassis? 😲Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 Its an option Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted February 6, 2016 Author Share Posted February 6, 2016 Quoted from Richard B Its an option Is that a confession? Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 It was the method of location, that is lacking on the new version, I was trying to point out Nick, rather than actually using them.Even if only one of the new type was modified to have a dowel the slip would be overcome.A smaller diameter hole that went right through the mount would enable marking of the tube for the positioning of the hole to receive the dowel.Dowel would be stepped to control the depth the dowel entered the tube and its length would control the amount in the clamp.Should not be very difficult to do.Drill the small hole, position the clamp, mark the tube, drill the hole in the clamp, using the small drilling as the pilot, to the appropriate diameter and depth, drill the tube, make the dowel to match the drillings.Making sure the clamp is homing on tube rather than itself, as has been posted, must be done.Mal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 Hello Mal, I have used these clamps for more than 10 years so my memory was a bit hazy, but I was sure my clamps were hard up against the collar on the rack, i.e. the clamping force does not need to be high. I've just been out to look, as my car is in bits at the moment and I can see that I re drilled the cross member to relocate the clamps so that the rack cannot move sideways relative to the cross member. Simple and effective and looks much less of a bodge than using a jubilee clip as shown in teh link.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hogie Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 Hi Alec, according to the TR Reg forum Moss do the solid mount that extends to the collars.http://www.tr-register.co.uk/f.....bsp; post #34Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 Hello Roger,I forget where I got mine from but when I originally fitted them I was obviously unhappy about the location so redrilled the cross member to move them outwards. Worked fine for me.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dogsbody47uk Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 My alloy mounts moved under (extreme) pressure. Scrapped them and now use poly bushes in standard mounts. No problem! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toledo Man Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 When I had the steering rack replaced on the Dolomite last year, I had Super Flex bushes fitted. They're worth every penny and are highly recommended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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