Alex Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 Ok I'm starting a new thread so I can get some answer's relevent to my problem as it now appears to be :'(The ring gear has come away from my flywheel,Alan Chatterton has suggested I could drift it back and use loctite to hold it in place.Is this deemed an acceptable fix or a bodge?I obviously need to remove the box is this as heavy as my 1500 spit od box?Can I remove and refit on my own?I guess if I dont remove the flywheel it'll be easier to refit the box?Whats the easiest way to go about this job?Times against me now as I'm away from the 1st weekend in september till the 2nd weekend and I've still not proven one way or another if my diff leaks cured since clearing the breather.Thanks in advanceAlex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 Hello Alex, it is possible to remove it yourself but it is quite heavy, particularly if it has overdrive?I believe (or is it a myth?) that when Triumph changed from inertia to pre engaged starter that they didn't turn the ring gear around so that the chamfer on the teeth were facing the right way for the pre engaged starter. As the pre engaged starter pinion pushes into the ring gear it tends to drive it off. As you need to refit the ring gear I would suggest considering fitting a new one as it will probably fit better. They do take some patience to drift on but it can be done without using heat. just ensure the lead on the teeth meets the starter pinion. Certainly, Locktite will not do any harm and may help. Just check to be sure that you get a suitable grade?Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted August 17, 2008 Author Share Posted August 17, 2008 Thanks Alec, Yes its got overdrive on it.Is it easier with the front or the back up on ramps?Thanks Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 Alex, I've had my overdrive gearbox off and on without even draining the oil, so it is possible but it would be much easier with help. Especially putting it back. I had mine up on four axle stands to try and get it as high as possible for space to work, and make it easier to line up the clutch by eye. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 Yep they are heavy - but go up and down ok on a trolleyjack. Front up is easier than back, but suggest both ends up for optimum. Why not get the flywheel lightened whilst you're at it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanChatterton Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 I always do it with the front of the car on ramps. I don't like axle stands.......... too wobbly for me!Take out the gearbox, then either change or repair the flywheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 I have only taken my 'box out by the use of a four post.Imagine it is poss. by taking out using a trolley jack. Maybe an idea to make some form of cradle to enable the jack to fully support the 'box.I hope that this is not a stupid suggestion!?Good luck, Alex. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 4 big 6-ton axle stands, Big trolley jack. Its comparable to a 1500 Spitfire OD box in weight, bigger but with an alloy casing. Can be done on your own but a second pair of hands helps putting the bugger back in!You could apply 3 - 4 small tack welds to hold the ring gear on or get a CW lightened flywheel :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanChatterton Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 I always use a trolley jack to lower/lift the box in and out.It is heavy, but perfectly manageable.So far, my record for a clutch change is about 3 hours.................. but that was when I was much younger! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 AlanChatterton wrote:So far, my record for a clutch change is about 3 hours.................. but that was when I was much younger!Either those gearboxs are getting heavier or I am getting older. ??) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 Now come on Alex... there are only 13 stops on the RBRR... and you don't have to stop the engine for a few of them... push start :)I'm not helping am I ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted August 18, 2008 Author Share Posted August 18, 2008 Oh no James you will be! If I need a bump start your my first port of call ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 That's what overriders are for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted August 18, 2008 Author Share Posted August 18, 2008 Best watch out for my towbar then ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldhabitat Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 The starter on my 2000 estate failed on the 06 RBRR it's surprising how quickly you learn to park on a slope somewhere, even managed it on a few petrol stations. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted August 18, 2008 Author Share Posted August 18, 2008 If I decided to just drift the ring gear back into place what loctite should I use to insure it stays put?Problem this week is the two people I can usually ask to help are busy ones on holiday the others busy at work :-/.I'm dreading this :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 Alex - wouldn't a tack weld be better? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted August 18, 2008 Author Share Posted August 18, 2008 I dont know....? :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 If it is viable, I might trust it more than glue :)Of course you'd have to make sure you did it so that it was balanced... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dizzy Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 Loctite isn't glue. ;) It doesn't bond molecularly to the components, it fills the miniscule gaps with a hard compound that mechanically locks the parts together and is especially strong in shear, as with the flywheel ring.Choosing a Loctitte grade is difficult as those on the open market will activate quite quickly with heat..... and pressing the ring on is very likely to generate heat. The ring could bond to the flywheel before it is right home! Best to press it almost home before dribbling some Loctite in. Loctite 638 (aka Bearing Fit) would be ideal.Alex, please read my comments on your other thread on this subject. There's just a chance it will save you work and expense, though no promises! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 Hello all, isn't the flywheel made of cast iron, if so special welding rods would be required to tack the steel ring gear in place? I personally don't like that idea very much though.Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted August 18, 2008 Author Share Posted August 18, 2008 Any tips on how I get at the top bell housing bolts,they seem to be really tight to the bulkhead.I cant see how I'm going to get a spanner on there?So I need to remove the exhaust?Remove theprop shaft.Do I need to remove the clutch slave or anything,or just disconnect the rod?Any other advice would be gratefully recieved.....Thanks,Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 Alex wrote:Any tips on how I get at the top bell housing bolts,they seem to be really tight to the bulkhead.I cant see how I'm going to get a spanner on there?Yeah you're doing it wrong ;DUndo the gearbox mount and lower the back of the box. Then get a 1/2'' extension bar with a U/J and from the rear use a ratchet to undo the nuts.PS Make sure you keep and reuse the two dowel bolts (9/16'') 180 degrees apart (not the starter motor ones, theres another pair).PPS You may be able to wriggle the box past the exhaust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted August 18, 2008 Author Share Posted August 18, 2008 Thanks Richard for the advice about the top bolts I'd wondered if there was some little trick like that :)Richard_B wrote:PPS You may be able to wriggle the box past the exhaust.I had thought maybe I could as mines an auto exhaust its quite far away from the box. :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 Oh I usually remove the gearbox cross member; makes the unit easier to manoeuvre. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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