GT6 M Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 jcarruthers wrote:Why is this even a discussion?Fan on the engine side of the rad, sucking through the radiator — controlled by a thermostatic switch. Never need worry about anything ever again.Well it all depends on space J, mines ont front, and that means the back side, engine side is free of clutter, so can get in there, much easier wen yer no bang,n yer kernukkles on things as the bigg spanner turning yer engine owa with has room for it and yer hand.Ben, try tek,n the bonnet rubber off infront of the winscreenIt meks alott of diff i found, as when fans blowing, or even sucking, air is hot, hot air goes to the top, the top is where the rubber isButt, bung some side vents in, and ye,ll have to blank the rad off !!M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bennygoodman Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 jcarruthers wrote:Why is this even a discussion?Fan on the engine side of the rad, sucking through the radiator — controlled by a thermostatic switch. Never need worry about anything ever again.The reason for the post was to prevent hot air being drawn towards the bulkhead and gearbox cover which makes the car interior slightly hot, by reversing the fan it would draw the hot air out of the engine bay and out of the vehicle and as I have stated it is only when the vehicle is stationary on hot days that any overheating occurs, the air whether hot or not passing through the radiator would still cool it because it would be cooler than the boiling water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 The trouble I found when fitting an electric fan and removing the mechanical one was, it was great switching on via the thermostat switch when the water needed cooling but standing in traffic the heat around the carbs caused vapour lock before the fan came on. So I have put back the mechanical one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 892 wrote:I hope you can find the vapour lock problem so that you can ditch the mechanical fan that is masking your problem.Cheers,Iain.I have since added electric fuel pump, wrapped the exhast manifold , double skinned the carb heat sink. But not had a chance yet to remove the fan and try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esxefi Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 892 wrote:I hope you can find the vapour lock problem so that you can ditch the mechanical fan that is masking your problem.Cheers,Iain.well,going down to brass tacks.as has been said on this forum before,the real culprit is modern fuel.a mechanical fan is perfectly fine when used as the design engineers intended with older leaded fuels as it keeps air flow going around the engine bay enough to help prevent vapour locking,and you would think it should be as good for todays fuel.as soon as you fit an electric fan you allow the heat to build to the point of vapour locking very quickly.this is mainly down to the non crossflow design of the cylinder head allowing copious amounts of heat to radiate to the carbs and manifold or whatever you have fitted.(even efi is not excluded as I have experienced in high heat).heat shields will delay it but without adequate air circulation it will occur eventually in high ambient temperatures.OP how about fitting a small ducted fan like they use on RC aircraft,they shift an incredible amount of air for their size and it only needs to be mounted pointing at the carbs/exhaust manifold to shift the hot air out(thought about this myself) :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 esxefi wrote:OP how about fitting a small ducted fan like they use on RC aircraft,they shift an incredible amount of air for their size and it only needs to be mounted pointing at the carbs/exhaust manifold to shift the hot air out(thought about this myself) :)I was also thinking on these lines. Maybe only coming on when the engine is at low revs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Somebody ages ago (Dazzer?? chap rallied a saloon IIRC?? ) suggested using a 12V extractor fan from a boat, bilge fan? Worth noting that R% turbo's had a similar problem, and the factory fixed it. Strapped something akin to a desk fan to the engine......Bonnet vents would be useful, but not to everybody's taste. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 My Herald's cooling system has evolved over the years, especially when I brought it to Australia. Stop-start traffic on 40 degree summer days quickly showed what worked and what didn't.The mechanical fan was ditched years ago, more to cut down the noise than liberate horsepower. In temperate New Zealand, twin 12" sucker fans did a good job. Once in Oz, they struggled. The basic radiator worked well - at 20mph and above the temperature was stable even on hot days - but below 20mph, they didn't pull enough air through. I added a cowling behind the radiator so that the fans sucked air through the whole radiator, not just the sections of core they sat against. Now they drag the temperature down quickly. I may add ducting in front of the radiator one dayA couple of observations from the summer just gone: as you'd expect, changes in air temperature are reflected in the water's temperature. On a 20 degree day, the water will be around 70 (too cold, almost). On a 40 degree day, it will hover around 90. Also, as was pointed out above, the water pump doesn't do much at idle. I can sit at traffic lights and watch the temperature rise even with the fans going, but blip the throttle and the pump starts moving water around, and the temperature drops instantly. A six-vaned alloy pump will be the next experiment.That's just my experience, not a recipe for success! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spider Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 I have 2 GT6's. One tuned, electric fan (sucker) electric fuel pump, electric water pump, oil cooler. The other is a tuned motor but all ancillaries std bar a cheap nasty electric fan from ebay. Never had vapour lock on either even when engine temp is high, and only had overheating problems with the electric ancillaries one, due to wiring issues and temp sensors not turning fans on when it should. I don't have the engine valances fitted so maybe that is the difference? As they block the air from escaping in my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Ive said it beofer, some had scoffed at idea,but my electric fan is switchable, IE it switches on with a switch too.and every time i think Im coming to traffic standing, then the fan goes onthis sorted the ubderbonnet heat probs I was having with the TPS sender.And its alott of air that come oot all the openings I got for the air to escapeI dont think yer idea will work in principle, Ben, but it sounds OK in theorywhat i invisage is that the fan will suck air frae the nearest spots.even frae reet underneath the rad, So no really shifting air where yer thinking it wwill be shifted.Butt, get a few smoke bombs, set em off, let the smoke build up under,t bonnet, then start fan off, and with either a head light oot, or being under neath, try and see what being shifted just a thowt to see whats going onM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piero franchi Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Far to many replys to read them all.So ifs its been said, sorrywith that said, LET ME POINT OUT.The fan on a rad be it front or rear mounted is ment to cool down the water in the engine, full stop.Thats all its there for.to say "I could use the fan to pull out under bonnet trapped heat" well why would you need to?????The fan cools the water, the water cools the engine, If your to hot in your cab, close the heater matrixs, open a window, or better still, seal your bulkhead.your going about it the wrong way if you want to use the rad fan for that.Your water and engine thermostat should be keeping your engine within range, at idle, the engine wont be exploding all the much fuel, and heat is the by product of that.poor heat sheilding or the bulkhead and gear box tunnel is the problem there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 If your to hot in your cab, close the heater matrixs, open a window, Ohhh it wont,ye,ll just getso :o :o :o :o :o , want to cool yer inside doon, blok up all exits in cab.!!M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
don cook1 Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 I suspect the real problem of cooling a GT6 is underdevelopment by Triumph! So, given the GT6's cooling problems is the 2000cc, 6 cylinder, fastback, sexy bonnet really worth it...well, of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
don cook1 Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 And, of course, GT6 drivers and passengers can always join the 'shorts' club of which several members of this forum are fully paid up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royboy66 Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 :X Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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