DaveKent
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Everything posted by DaveKent
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Does anyone know what happened to this car, it's no longer on DVLA? I'm after this or another one if anyone know's of any?
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Be prepared for a lot of stick here Rod!! Can you seriously answer "yes" to your ability to drive pretty much non stop for 48 hours and 2000 miles by yourself, dealing with weather, breakdowns, fatigue etc in a car that is slow and noisy compared with modern standards? The event is difficult with two drivers, and I believe we have a policy that prevents single driver entries: it's not realistic to do this event on your own. I'm sure there will be other members who need a co driver or a car, so think about that; don't worry about not getting on with them because usually even best friends start to irritate each other by the time they get to Corbridge, it's part of the fun.# ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Forte engine flush Alex, it appears to be way superior to all the others.
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Forte engine flush Alex, it appears to be way superior to all the others.
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timbancroft61 wrote:Take your time, clean bench (In fact, cleaniness is essential) loads of lube and a good torque wrench! Tim's so right : Cleanliness, lots of lube and a good wench are all essential................especially nice when you get back from a hard day's engine building!! ;)
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Wim, That dent will knock out with a hammer ok. it will be fine.
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or sloppy rack mounts after years of oil soaking
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Had a quick measure yesterday; Aygo C1 107 seat bases measure approx 22" front to back, 18.5" widest part and 5" thick. The bases have 4 threaded mounting holes in a metal plate that is the seat tray, so it shouldn't be too difficult to adapt them to fit spitfire runners. Only question is_ will theses dimensions physically fit in the spit space? They have simple lever type backrest adjustment too, so no need to worry about getting your hand in to turn an adjustment wheel.
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Also look at Aygo, 107, and C1 seats, I haven't measured them but they look similar in size (without seat base/frames) to MX5 seats.
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But it could just be collapsed bushes. so do all the above; however a thorough inspection is key to what you will actually need to replace. If it's going to be everything, then I'd seriously consider Canley's trunnionless conversion.
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red :)
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1542 wrote:i never use that crap easy start,y oh y use it..had trouble when i brought my 2500pi (with twin carb) EOL666L me and my bro stripped the carbs,upgrade needle where fitted and still never ran right..did every thing even brought carb testing kit/compression kit and still ran like crap on tick over but on a drive run there where pinking so i live with it....easy start poo ) What a load of nonsense! :P Use easy start as a tool, it's just a highly volatile substance that will give an indication of where your problem lies. It is not a substitute for the corect settings etc but is a quick and easy way of getting an engine to fire when you are diagnosing a fault.
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also you'll need to check the linkage operates both carbs evenly. slacken the pinch bolts, allow both throttle butterflies to snap shut, then, with the linkage tangs touching both carbs evenly, nip up the pinch bolts again. check you can get full throttle too, and that both carbs snap shut and operate equally.
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Ooh lots of things to try! what carbs have you got? have you checked the ignition timing, plugs, points etc? is fuel reaching the float chambers? have you got any air leaks? were the carbs purchased "already set up"? if the carbs are SU, you could try screwing the jets all the way in, then undo about two full turns and making sure the choke is off, crank the engine and see what happens. Try spraying some easy start or carb cleaner down each carb to see if the engine itself will run. Come back to us and let us know what you have tried, as there are so many possibilities- you will have to work through things methodically.
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traffic film remover is the god of all cleaners!!!
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i've taken many a head and block here for my customers. not your cheapest option inthis case but they do a proper job. http://www.castironwelding.co.uk/
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Not petrol, that has no lube properties. you need diesel or a proper penetrating oil llike Plus Gas or a teflon solution. WD40 is a dewatering agent, it can be used as a lubricant on exposed threads but quickly dries off.
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WD 40 is not realy a freeing agent, you should try plus gas or the like, or even diesel.
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and another!
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another
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one of my customers always uses Plasticote on his engines, (v8 american race engines) . they reach some serious temperatures and never really affects the finish of the paint.
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Use PLASTICOTE aerosols, there's a good range of colours and the finish is good too. It will last as long as you need it to.
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allegro, avenger and several others share these lights.
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Aaron, that's steam coming from your exhaust, not white smoke :)
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Your spit doesn't look that bad! have a look on the Dolomite thread about one of MadMarts projects. Plenty of pics on there, and paintstripping advice. Sorry , link no longer available