Tim Bancroft

Hi Andy, The RBRR will be the first full weekend of October 2023, therefore Friday 06/10 to Sunday 08/10. Hope that you can do both weekends. Admin on the event has now started, as seems the way, the next year will go very quickly, so see you at the start! Tim

Hi Theo, any news on the car?

Hi Sam, Any news on the Dolomite recovery? I hope that you have sorted something out for her.

Foolowing successful completion of the 10CR, my Saloon needs the following work: 1. Engine out for a re-build. The bottom end has not been touched for 18 years, bar new timing chains and whilst oil pressure is still relatively ok, the car is burning oil and down on power. Still feels very smooth though. Full re-build with some mild racey bits. 2. Gearbox is noisey in 1st/2nd/3rd, so needs looking at, layshaft? 3. Diff needs a pinion oil seal 4. New pads and discs 5. Discover where the water is coming into the car as the rear footwells are filling up with rainwater when driving in heavy rain. But before this, the car whilst being mobile is due to have a new wiring loom fitted to her, plus some aniciilary wiring. All in all though, I am so impressed with the old girl, she does just keep going.

To me all early versions of Triumph cars seem better built than the later versions, an early Stag with a manual overdrive gearbox would be my choice. I feel they look better...no offence to owners of later versions.

John, of course.

HI all, was thinking about what to put in the boot and thought it would be a good idea to post the RBRR advice Notes that we did a few years ago with the RBRR team's thoughts about spares and tools, so here it is: Tools and Spare Parts You need to think very carefully about which spares would be useful, rather than just dead weight. Take such spares and tools as are appropriate to the event and to YOUR level of competence. More experienced mechanics may choose to take spares with them which would take longer and be more difficult to change, such as wheel bearings, water pumps, even drive shafts. But don’t take a spare clutch if you normally draw the line at changing the oil and filter. The roadside is not the place to learn the black art of motor repair. An AA membership card (or similar) can be a very valuable spare in itself, know when to quit and let someone else do the job! Recent RBRRs have been blighted with problems caused by duff dynamos, alternators and fuel pumps. Think about taking replacements, however, talk to entrants using similar cars and share the load. A note for first time RBRR or long distance driving event entrants. Prior to the event it may be beneficial to pack your car fully with ALL the gear you intend to take along with your co-drivers and take the car out for a run, preferably at night . Get a feel for how it handles and and get the inside organised with your maps and storage etc. There is nothing worse than ferreting around looking for wallets, phones, cameras down the sides of seats which can be especially distracting for the driver. Make sure you have adequate means of payment with you, just in case the unexpected happens, have your escape plan worked out BEFORE you need it. Pack loose items into small clear plastic storage boxes. Supermarkets sell cheap food storage boxes which are very good. Here’s a check-list of basic spares: · Breakdown/recovery scheme card · First Aid kit · Fire Extinguisher (Especially Lucas PI cars) · Tow rope · Gaffa tape (Duct tape) · WD40 or similar · Bungee cords (luggage elastics) · Cable ties, split pins · Steel and/or copper wire · Electrical connectors and a length or two of wire · Insulation tape · Imperial size nuts and bolts, including wheel nut(s) · Water hoses and hose clips · Petrol hose / tubing · Olives for water pipes · Exhaust fittings · Fan belt, power steering belt if appropriate · Bulbs, including “sealed beam” units if appropriate. · Light switch(es) – especially the combined indicator / dip switch (Stag, 2000 range, and others) and the TR light switch. · Fuses · Ignition spares: plugs, points, condenser, dizzy cap, leads, coil. If you’ve fitted electronic ignition, consider taking a complete set of original bits with you, so you can retrofit them if the electronics fail · Alternator or dynamo · Fuel Pump · Engine/transmission/steering fluids · Water (for cooling the PI pump, of course). If you are taking water for the cooling system top up why not take water/antifreeze mix. · A brake hose clamp could isolate a wheel cylinder and avoid excessive fluid loss or bleeding. · If your car has security type locking wheel nuts check the special nut/key is readily to hand. Better still remove them and fit standard nuts! Right, that’s the spares list done – now for the tools! Instead of packing your tools in a rusty metal toolbox, why not use a plastic one? These are lighter and absorb rattles better, nowt worse than rattles! Keep a small selection of frequent use tools such as pliers, screwdrivers, 7/16, 1/2, and 9/16 AF spanners near to hand. · Overalls and rubber inspection gloves · Hand wipes (Swarfega hand wipes are very good) · A plastic or foam sheet to lie upon if you have to go under the car- available from camping shops. · AF Spanners · Assorted pliers and cutters · ½ inch, 3/8 inch and ¼ inch drive socket sets · Assorted screwdrivers · Engineers hammer · Breaker bar fitted with wheel nut sized socket · Tyre pressure gauges, these are good: (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sykes-Pickavant-Halfords-pressure-0-50lb/dp/B00I5G2FOA) · Crimping tool, these offer much more positive connections than ordinary pliers if you need to make low resistance electrical connections. · Insulation tape · Foot pump · Rubber mallet · Junior hacksaw · Cold chisels and drifts · Feeler gauges · Files · Mole wrench · Adjustable spanner · Strong, stable screw jack – a trolley jack is a very good idea if space available-think about the weight though! · Multi Meter or simple test lamp · Collapsible axle stands · Brake bleeding equipment · LED Torch: Sealey sell a wonderful one: https://www.toolden.co.uk/p/sealey-led360plusr-rechargeable-360-inspection-lamp-16-smd-led-3w-led-red-2-x-lithium-ion/?gclid=CjwKCAjwgZuDBhBTEiwAXNofRKR_u2YJ7NCHcmOyfLQrAtooHJ4U1huNwmte41iFxM2tbcTdtLJTsBoCrY0QAvD_BwE USB rechargeable, so very handy!

I am taking two of these, £10 a pop and bloody good. Useful if needed under the car.

We are also hoping to offer places at a cheaper rate than 2021...Club Triumph, the Club that likes to give back!

2 Spec Classics without any hesitation. Paul Hughes the proprietor of 2Spec is a CT Member and a top bloke, based near Solihull. Just done my Saloon gearbox, very good job. http://www.2specgroup.co.uk/

Here it is:

I used this tool for flaring, very useful as compact enough to flare pipes more or less in situ: https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/hand-held-brake-pipe-flaring-tool?gclid=CjwKCAjw3qGYBhBSEiwAcnTRLipokZQRevGHC0i0uNSd5d0VumUSsEPiT9y4DdHT88GR90PhqmEZ7BoCCXMQAvD_BwE

Saloon: Every few years I have to re-new the wiring to the starter motor as it gets fried by the tubular exhaust manifold, so I have just done that. Also replaced the positive lead from the battery. Changed the electric fan switch that is situated in the bottom of the radiator. Otherwise, working through the list of jobs to get ready for the 10CR: Valve clearances, engine oil change, diff and gearbox oil level check, and check over the top strut bearings, then its time for a good clean and polish. TR6 Took out the rear light units and cleaned off all the soot and staining, the reverse light lenses are past cleaning so replaced with new. I have also replaced the light bulb holders and will be fitting LEDs. GT6 Nothing!

Ebay may be the only solution and then will be probably only suitable for rebuilding. https://newtoncomm.co.uk/collections/triumph/mki-1962-64 Not the cheapest, its why many go for the later and more supportive Spit mk4/1500 seats

Anyone else?

All gone quiet again, here is my news: GT6: New old spring in and whilst the car seems to ride slightly better, the handling is not as sharp (like I can tell the difference). Probably calling out for an alignment check. Otherwise, sling away the old Yoko 185/60s and stick another set of Uniroyal 175/70 rain experts and also get the sunroof re-covered. TR6: New engine fitted and now run in, very revvy and super smooth. Need to sort out the mixture as slightly too rich at present. Next job, is too fit a new sytec fuel pump kit.....that sounds like it will be a barrel of laughs! 2.5Pi (SU): Electrical problems, as ever the wiring to the starter motor is being fried by the proximity of the tubular exhaust manifold, therefore all nice and brittle. So a re-wire down there is needed. Thinking it is time to fit a new loom as the existing original jobbie is past its best. Prob buy from Autosparks and have some additions for relays to protect some circuits. The engine is starting to use oil, so will do this job when the lump is out...after the 10CR! On both the Saloon (J Type) and the TR6 (A Type), the overdrive is well, lethargic. GT6 overdrive (again J Type) is superb, very sharp and can be used as intended. So thinking some work will be needed on these....! I just get worn out thinking about working on these old cars!

Darren, If James Carruthers' Mintylamb site does not help, maybe call Andrew Turner, he should be able to give you a good guide. Are the carbs in good nick?

Another thumbs up for the standard seats. MX5 seats just look weird in Spitties!

Hi Nick, There are a surprising number of European and Scandinavian cars on carandclassic.co.uk these days, maybe worth trying to sell on that site?

Got some wiring to do and check over the front suspension, otherwise the car is fine.

Got to agree with Pete, modern pumps are very poor. Good luck Pete.

Where are you based?

My first car was a Vitesse mk2 conv., bought 40 years ago last week....sold to buy the GT6 in Nov 83.....Loved the Vitesse, but got fed up with the rattling.... Still have a fondness for them, would love Vitesse mk1 Saloon with overdrive....

Good to read this. Well done.

Hi Bill, can you not buy reels of brake pipe and a flange making kit and make your own pipes? Lots of photos on the web show the route of the pipes. Good luck.