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GT6 M

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Everything posted by GT6 M

  1. GT6 M

    wiring

    http://www.triumphspitfire.com/images/wiring/GT6MkIIIwiring.jpg http://www.triumphspitfire.com/images/wiring/MKIVwire.jpg http://www.triumphspitfire.com/wiring.html
  2. Yes could be gasket, but doo try the  cap first, as it may be not sealing. try  running engine with out cap on  { idle } and see if the water comes over  [ after its leveled out ] and also as Ferny says, look for bubbles coming up. also try some engine rad flush, as the whole system may be coked up with hard water deposits. where you at, in a hard water area [ lime scale, furring up, follow !! ] M
  3. GT6 M

    Broken diff

    Got a few diffs frae hea an thea, got to this one and thought that looks odd. scraped the  stuff off, and it was body filla, and it was holding the broken bit of the diff housing in. must have been caused by a  broken tooth, as bloke said it was a 3.27 when i bought it, but its a 3.63.    its just been put in, not even shimmed up right, or tight done up to flogg  but CWP / P not too bad. the tooth must,v clouted the diff carrier too, as its got a ding init. Markus Tinkerous
  4. GT6 M

    Weber Carbs

    Are Dell Orto,s not better. some tripple webers on flea bay, that what ye lookin at.!!! M
  5. think you be hard pushed to get a really good one, but they are about. try that MG and Triumph spot for bits, Abingdon MG an Triumph is it,!!! even a worn used one, be better that that nokker you got in ohh the Wee Hen is Henreetta  Leghorn,  Foghorns wife,    ;) ;)
  6. Give Mr Papworth a shout , he doon your end I tink. but just bearings, then most local factors should have em. the only bits you will be strugglin to git , are the thrusts. the diff gears need to be tight. and thrusts are as hard to fin as these. ;)
  7. Richard_B wrote: Whilst I also respect Marcus's 'tinkering'/engineering skills, I think straps are better there to accomodate rock in the engine. We'll probably find Marcus's engine is suitably secured and this is not a problem for him.  :-/ Not a  prob Rich, as the front pipe has a bit of play in it, so can twist, and no leak had to doo it this way cos I got a greet bigg donger of a center box and it was always kernokkn.
  8. whats wrong with a Jerry can!!! or are there that many spares on board, no room for one.!!!! Yes it is a ripp off, coming up frae  Stonehenge show, pulled in for some GoGo Juice, and made a quick sharp exit, no way going to pay 1.55.   Went onto Penrith and got it at Rhegged, 1 38 for 97 Oct If evey one by passed them, then they soon drop the prices. ohhhh hoo,s the diff coming on. Pics of inside of old one please. M
  9. Im not a lover of straps an the like, make the sytem too wobbeleee, and is then prone to assorted noks /bangs / clonks , in the car. so Ive had it like this for yonks, seems to work fine. diff attachments back box hangers M
  10. And  jack the car up first, helps  the adjuster to go alott better.
  11. Me self, none. byath have got alot of play int diff gears. will clonk along nicely, not as bad as the one ye took oot though. thrust, both flat ones and cupped ones, hard to come by. can get some made up flat ones. I just re done mine,and thrust that came ott 25 though thick, thrust that went in  45, flat ones cups 20, new ones 35. noo as good as new.   really need to try and get some bigger thrusts, if they  both worn, maybe you can double up on the flat ones need it as tight as ye can get whilst still able to turn. M
  12. If you tried  every thing, then it maybe that Stupid useless ethanol mixed in. it evaporates alot faster with carbs, so carbs are empty. read link on Chiti chat aboot it.
  13. Forget about a gasket, clean it all off when to bits, use thinners, clean the wee grove around the outer edge too and seal with  gasket silicon,  make a nice tin bead, and then make a circle aroond the bolt holes same on drive flanges, and tighten up. go around edge and wipe excess off whenst its still wet, and the groove will have noo got a ..just incase back up sael too. :) It will ever leak. trust me, Im a Tinkerer. :) M
  14. the oil seal  /s over the years  may have made a groove int crank. I have this ont front pully, remedy, set oil seal further out to clear groove. step 2, bung some oil stop leak in, it does work.  but not if its a bigg drip, which yours dont seem to be. M
  15. the oil seal  /s over the years  may have made a groove int crank. I have this ont front pully, remedy, set oil seal further out to clear groove. step 2, bung some oil stop leak in, it does work.  but not if its a bigg drip, which yours dont seem to be. M
  16. on the end of the rod in the MC there is a wee rod wid a spring aroond it, ont end of this is a rubber washer. follow,!!! this rubber washer  / seal,  seals the end of the hole in the MC, so allowing fluid to go to brakes.. If ye aint got this sealing reet, or put it together wrong, then this will be the syptoms you are getting. Have a deek at a  picture of the internals, or take the old one t bits, and all will come clear as Brake Fluid ;) ;) ;) M
  17. Vit / GT6 gears are diff to 1850, so too are the baulk rings,  both bigger also 2 nd gears teeth  are  wider, and some reverse  gears have more teeth than others. just to confues ye even more. ;) M
  18. Im suprised Mr Smifter has,nt been along when ..sliding members,and  studs .. are aboot. :) :)
  19. Thats no a clonk, its a rattle / knock Not what I had. If the front bearing has gone, and the Pinnion is flapp,n aboot, then I would love to see some pics of what is in there. ohhh a sliding member, its what some call a  sliding joit / slip joint, generally at the back have a deek at this.
  20. AJ thats the sound Ive hope fully got rid of. comes mainly on over run, very light throttle. and it was a worn sliding  member. but yours may be diff, as its really hard to say wid oot seeing / hearing it. bung up what ye find. M Ohhh, what and where was the bit int News and Deekaboot   [ time and Star / Evening Nes,!! } cant see any thing  aboot 2 pairs of Troosers Not thinking of this are ye,  :P http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=R2EjelEQgPw
  21. Aha, I see now, 1/4 play in  / oot, is not good news. if you see a nut with a cover on it on the diff drive flange , its a  [supposedly ] collapse able spacer. M
  22. GT6 M

    caliper paint

    Nope not enamel  Mr Fern but ordinary Trade pent. go git some Johnstons PO red  gloss.  { Post Office Red } all this crap aboot  caliper pent,which costs a fortune. brake calipers never get hot, not even warm on most cars. just mek sure you got all the crap off,or it wont stick Note, best to give a few thin coats,as opposed to yan thick,n as RED pent is dire at covering, and it always goes thin on edges. best to spray if ye got a wee gun. then give  one thick  [ undiluted ] coat for protection. AFTER the others have dried, or it will crinkle, leave in sun, that gets a good heat up M
  23. AJ, are you sure the clonk is the pinnion bearing.!!!! bearings generally dont clonk but rumble. clonks come frae the the CW/ P, if its gone out of mesh the diff gears,with worn thrust, giving the CW/P alot of movement whenst turned frae the prop end, and both wheels cant turn. and what ive been on wid, a very worn sliding spline M
  24. 2356 wrote:I think they're a bad idea without, as the oil gets sent around the cooler before it goes to the rest of the engine. Fine when hot, but bad when cold. erm not really, the cooler is pressuried all the time, but oil does not flow thru the cooler untill the valve opens. rest of the time its just acting as normal oil flow. M
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