Antonnick Posted October 18, 2020 Author Share Posted October 18, 2020 It appears that I did set up everything with the Crank at TDC correctly before I took it off.. I put the camshaft toothed wheel back on with the chain attached and the crank at TDC and found that the valves on cylinder nr 4 were indeed "on the rock". So that was ok. Two things though. My new gasket kit seems to have three of almost the same item for the front plate ( that with the engine mounting flanges). I did not use the thiner one. Hope that what I have done is ok. the only criteria I can tell is the camshaft clearance (end float) which is within spec. The other query I have is that I have obtained a lifting eye whichbolts onto the cylinder head. To fix it I would need to remove the two nuts but is this wise bearing in mind that the other cylinder head nuts would not have been loosened? With the motor out of the car, have been cleaning, rust converting and painting the engine compartment. It does not look like new but still a great improvement. I will take a pic when it is finished, hoepfully this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 I can't remember what the situation is with the four cylinder but I know the six cylinder gasket sets have two front-plate gaskets because of design changes between the 1600/early Mk1 and the late Mk1/Mk2/2500 bottom ends. If the gaskets are identical apart from thickness then use the one that gets closest to spec for the camshaft clearance. If the head has been off then you should be OK fitting the lifting eye and re-torquing. If it hasn't, you may want to slacken all the nuts by half a turn then re-torque in the correct sequence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 I had the head off earlier in the year and have already retightend the bolts after 500km - is that what you mean? If I can avoid loosening the nuts again I would like to. To retorque all 10 would mean removing the rockers again, resetting - very time consuming and (for me) difficult to get right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 Hmm... you'll probably get away with fitting the eye and only disturbing those two nuts. I'd be slightly more confident if you did the full re-torque in sequence but as this is a Herald, not a skimmed high compression race engine, you should be OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 Thank you, I will try with just the two nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted October 20, 2020 Author Share Posted October 20, 2020 Enough for today. engine is back together, but minus the vulnerable parts and ready to be lifted in. The crane is only acting as support for the moment. I need to refit the dynamo in order that the lifting hooks are at equal heights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted October 20, 2020 Author Share Posted October 20, 2020 ..perhaps the most rewarding part of the exercise, a renovated engine room; as much as is possible anyway without dismantling everthing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted October 20, 2020 Author Share Posted October 20, 2020 Motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted October 22, 2020 Author Share Posted October 22, 2020 We were going to re-install the completed engine when I noticed that the clutch thrust bearing looked a bit loose. It then came off as the "fulcrum pivot pin " was missing. It must have been missing for a while as it is not underneath the car now. I think I need to order this plus the "tolerance ring" that goes with it. ☹ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 If you mean the rod that locates the right hand end of the clutch operating arm into the bell housing, they are prone to falling out. Some folks replace them with a 5/16*2.5" (or M8 by 70mm) bolt, with the head at the top so it can't fall through. You need to use one with mostly smooth and only a bit of thread, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted October 22, 2020 Author Share Posted October 22, 2020 oh that is a good idea and I have some M8 Bolts already - I will have a try tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted October 23, 2020 Author Share Posted October 23, 2020 I have managed to screw in a 8mm bolt rather than try to hammer it in, so it is a nice tight fitting. Wonderful! It does not go all the way through so I am thinking if I got a longar bolt and put a lock nut on the exposed end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 You need to have a bolt that's long enough that the smooth shank part extends all the way through the operating arm and into the bottom part of the bell housing. You don't want any working surfaces on threaded parts! An 8mm bolt will be tight in the hole as it's a 5/16" hole, which is a fraction under 8mm, so make sure the arm still pivots cleanly. After that, the lock nut is probably unnecessary but would do no harm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted October 25, 2020 Author Share Posted October 25, 2020 So I purchased a (I think you call it ) a coach bolt with its long smooth shaft. The top had a square section which I rounded off to match the rest. It went in quite easily so problem is solved. Engine will go back in tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 Just thought, before you put the engine back have you checked the bronze bush inside the flywheel which supports the gearbox input shaft. If you havent already looked it should just pull out with some sort of wire hook and be a reasonable fit on said shaft👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted October 25, 2020 Author Share Posted October 25, 2020 Yes, the new bronze bush that came with the gasket set has been put in. I do not know if there was one in there before as I just sent the whole crankshaft away for regrinding and it came back without any bush in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 Great and with a bit of grease in it you should be ready to go. One other thing out of interest is the amount of play in the gearbox input shaft? It'll move side to side but the less the better... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted October 25, 2020 Author Share Posted October 25, 2020 Gearbox is new. has done perhaps now 1500km only Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 wow there cant be much left to do now then can there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted October 26, 2020 Author Share Posted October 26, 2020 The hood 😄 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted October 26, 2020 Author Share Posted October 26, 2020 Before trying to put the engine back in, I wanted to check the performance of the clutch. Then the problems started. Firstly the clutch pedal was rock solid and would not move. Having disconnected the linkage, it must be the master cylinder that is now jammed. Never mind I thought, I can fix that separately later. Then I checked the movement of the release bearing with the nice new 8mm coach bolt. It hardly moves at all (maybe 4 to 5mm only) and then only because the coach bolt is very loose in its housing. I then noticed that the bush in the bottom section is missing. Somehow the release bearing does not want to slide over the gearbox shaft in order to operate the clutch. No other option, I will have to remove the gearbox to determine what is wrong. The missing bush I can make on my small lathe. 😩😣 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted October 26, 2020 Author Share Posted October 26, 2020 The gearbox is out and on the bench. There I could see what the problem was . The hydraulik was jammed in the open position. A bit of luck, I have found a suitable bush for the 8mm hinge bolt. Will assemble the gearbox to the motor tomorrow and hopefully install them as a unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted October 26, 2020 Share Posted October 26, 2020 Yes that makes sense. If you operated the clutch without the engine in place the slave cylinder would push forward and probably get stuck in position because the counter pressure from the clutch springs wasnt available to push it back.... Might even be easier to install engine and box together rather than trying to align them in the car👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bitumen Boy Posted October 27, 2020 Share Posted October 27, 2020 Much easier to mate engine and gearbox off the car then install them as one unit, IMO. The alignment is easier as you can straddle the gearbox on the floor and use your leg muscles to lift it up to the engine, doing it in the car is liable to do your back no good! Also the awkward bolts that hold the starter are much easier to get at. I'm not sure just now - it's a few years since I had all this out - but is the bush in the crankshaft end one of those that should be pre-soaked in oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted October 27, 2020 Author Share Posted October 27, 2020 It was not that easy actually putting the gearbox into the Motor. It did not seem to want to go in. I checked with the spindle guide as I thought perhaps it was not line up but that was ok. Then suddenly after a few attempts the alignment was then right I suppose and it went in and got bolted up. In between I did grease the spline of the gearbox a little with brake grease. I did not fit the starter motor as I know it can foul the steering rod on the LHS. It is difficult to get in on its own but the fuel pump is not yet fitted and this would also get in the way. Ayway, my neighbour in exchange for coffee and buscuits helped me get engine and gearbox in. Or did I help him? I thought at first that the bonnet would have to be removed but he managed to push everything in position whilst I operated the crane. Enough for today! Will put the remaining bits back tomorrow and we shall see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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