Antonnick Posted November 2, 2020 Author Share Posted November 2, 2020 Getting it all back together again. Oil is in and have followed the good trick of using a drill to operate the oil pump in order to prime it and get some flow around the pieces. It is a battery drill and can hardly cope when the pressure builds up. Spent a lot of time trying to set up the clearances for the distributor pedestal again. The washer I inserted is 1,34 mm thick and after temp bolting the Pedestal in place, the feeler gauges measured 2, something mm. Obviously wrong. Took the pedestal off, removed the washer and then bolted it down again without the drive in place to see if there was any clearance at all with across the flange. There was none, so that is ok. REfitted the washer, drive gear and pedestal but probably the drive did not sit properly for the feeler guages read over 2mm again. All off , turned the engine over by hand again , this time pressing down on the drive gear which then did suddenly drop . Supi! My feeler gauges then measured 1,25 mm clearance. I tried with 1,3 and it did go in part way but with force, Anyway that gives me a tolerance of 0,09 mm so one of the the thin gaskets in the set will do. This matched what I took off anyway. Will add the anti freeze tomorrow and then try to start the thing. I will need to prime the fuel pump I think first. LAst time it did not want to pump as first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 3, 2020 Share Posted November 3, 2020 im not sure this is crank related , so it rumbles when torque is asked for ??? have you really carefully eliminated exhaust contact under load or even failed clutch disc damper springs or any other out the box idea , if you keep rebuilding the engine but the problem returns you could be chasing the wrong culprit Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted November 3, 2020 Author Share Posted November 3, 2020 Carefully eliminated ? You may be so right. The Crank needed doing anyway, so too the cylinder head. It is all back together now except I have to fit the clutch slave cylinder. It seems to be jammed in the full down position so will need to sort that first. The exhaust contact I have long ago found out that it is not that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted November 4, 2020 Author Share Posted November 4, 2020 Fabulous! After lots of checks, the Motor started this morning and I ran it for about 5 minutes. Cannot go on a journey yet as there is almost no oil in the gearbox. Very pleased also that the normal heavy clonking sound after a cold start is gone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 Hurrah! Result! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted November 4, 2020 Author Share Posted November 4, 2020 Let us only say that the first signs are positive and wait until it has driven a few km. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 An oil pressure reading would be useful now. If you havent got a permanent gauge installed like me you can buy a small one with the correct thread and temporarily screw it directly in place of the oil pressure switch. I do this from time to time and of course now your reading should be the best ever👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted November 4, 2020 Author Share Posted November 4, 2020 I do have the oil pressure gauge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted November 4, 2020 Author Share Posted November 4, 2020 Here it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 Very nice. How does the reading now compare with before the rebuild? Of course fresh oil will give a higher pressure anyway so it maybe deceptive until youve driven a few kms... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted November 4, 2020 Author Share Posted November 4, 2020 I do not know yet. the engine has only been running a few minutes, enough to drive the car from the workshop ( the barn!) to my Garage, a distance of 100m only. The oil pressure goes up to 80psi on revving a bit , which it did before after a new oil pump was fitted, the real test of course will be when the motor gets hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted November 6, 2020 Author Share Posted November 6, 2020 have just returned from a 40km trip. Very pleased to report that not only the knocking for a few seconds during a cold start is gone but the annoying rumble on accelerating at 70kmh + is also gone. So it was the the crankshaft at fault. the oil prssure is phenominal. It hovers at 90 psi for a long time and even at low revs it is about 60 psi. I forgot to look during tickover. so I suppose this thread is now finished. Many many thanks for all the hints and tips and help. gruß und bleib Gesund Antonia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 Brilliant, at long last! Now to get planning those trips for next year🌍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted November 16, 2020 Author Share Posted November 16, 2020 last trip this year - it is nice to be underway again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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