Alex Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 What fun I've been having!I put my 'spare' spitfire I or an mot and it failed on a few very minor points.Wiper blade split,washer not working,emissions( choke was stuck open) oh and it had almost no rear brakes.So everything addressed and took it back,brake imbalance across axle.I'd adjusted them up so was a bit surprised this time......the first time I'd taken it for a fail sheet to work from but as it was so minor I've decided to just get it through and fix the rest later.So today I've gone back again.......much better but not enough!Single line system 1500 spitfire...... New shoes,new cylinders,new drums and new adjusters.I'm adjusting so they lock up without handbrake connected then backing off till they turn. Attach handbrake and all done......except it's not enough!I've now adjusted it all again swapped drums,bled all brakes( daughter pressed the pedal so fingers crossed it was enough...)and hoping to get it back again tomorrow......Grrr!Rant over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 Quoted from Alex I'm adjusting so they lock up without handbrake connected then backing off till they turn. I only back off the shoes one or two flats, once they are locked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted September 29, 2015 Author Share Posted September 29, 2015 I'm finding that the adjuster has to go far enough to click before the wheel will turn.thats possibly two flats? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 When you turn the adjuster the first turn back it might not be on the cam flat. So move the spanner/adjuster forward and back a touch while rocking the wheel. Some times you think its not released till you do this. Then you realise it was just off the cam. Also the only rear shoes you should use are the mintex ones. Alternately get the old ones re-shoed with mintex 1144 liners at a shoe liner specialist.Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 In my experience you have absolutely sod all chance of a pass with brand new shoes. You need to do a few miles with plenty of brake use to bed them in a bit then re-adjust.If the adjusters are properly free-running you should be absolutely no doubt when they are one the flats, as you can feel it through the spanner. If you can't feel it, they are partially seized and need taking apart, cleaning up and lightly greasing. They work really well when working right. I normally only back off one flat from locked. When the shoes are bedded in this will give a free-turning drum.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted September 30, 2015 Author Share Posted September 30, 2015 Thanks Nick,As you said I could feel when they were in the flats easily. Even the mot guy said they're working we just need the numbers!Went back today and had another full test..... Failed on o/s washer this time and brake was binding a touch. Mot man sorted it. So now has an mot 😎He did advise a poor body..... I'm hoping he meant the car!Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 Was it jacked up ont chassis or frae the hub.there a BIGGGG diff in brake adjustment.gotta doo it as static laden.M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted September 30, 2015 Author Share Posted September 30, 2015 It was jacked up on the chassis ........with handbrake cables disconnected would that matter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 Maybe, as if cable is a slack fit, then there alott of HB play befoer the brake arm teks hodd.it really needs to be quite tight at a laden weight.POI, pull HB on slowly, and not hard, wid button still depressed when ye going along a uneven roadat a speed, and see what happens to HB lever weired feeling, M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 Ah, up on stands for hand brake setting!Because of the run of the cables, with the suspension in full droop the cables go loose. Adjust them correctly, and they go tight with the wheels on the ground.Always adjust with the car down, or else with stands under the uprights, so that the car is up in the air with the suspension in a normal position.JOhn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 I have not found it to be too much of an issue with non-rotoflex cars. However, with rotoflex it has to be adjusted with the weight on the wheels/uprights as the cable runs are compromised. But I think Nick has hit the nail on the head re bedding in. Another option can be to scuff the drum faces with abrasive to give a bit more bite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted September 30, 2015 Author Share Posted September 30, 2015 Quoted from cliftyhanger But I think Nick has hit the nail on the head re bedding in. Another option can be to scuff the drum faces with abrasive to give a bit more bite Funny you should say that Clive......this last time I stripped everything off,swapped the drums over, roughed up the faces of the shoes and bled the brakes before adjusting everything.Not sure what fixed it but a pass is a pass lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 the rear brakes hand-brake force changes when my fat body is in or out of the car.And this is why some of us were saying that yer tracking needs adjusted widweight int car.M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensH Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 @Iain: I believe you have done no harm to the rear brakes; but you can always take off the drum and look at rubber parts etc. But they should have bedded in by now 😎 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 Thanks for that gents, it explains why i can never get the handbrake right when i adjust it with the car up on jacks on the chassis.Learn something new here all the time 🙂RR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 It does make a difference, about 2-3 clicks worth on the handbrake I made a block with a semi circular hole to fit under the suspension works a treat.RR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
byakk0 Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 I need to adjust my handbrake as the entire system is new. Right now I have to put it on the very last possible click for it to work. Where is the best place to adjust the cable, right at the hand brake or at each wheel? Doing so at the handbrake is a pain as the whole assembly has to come apart.('67 GT6, non-rotoflex) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 Quoted from byakk0 I need to adjust my handbrake as the entire system is new. Right now I have to put it on the very last possible click for it to work. Where is the best place to adjust the cable, right at the hand brake or at each wheel? Doing so at the handbrake is a pain as the whole assembly has to come apart.('67 GT6, non-rotoflex) yes it is, get the angle right on the quadrant then go to each wheel afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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